Transmission Fluid Change Instructions : EVO 8
Jul 12, 2005, 09:19 AM
#1
Account Disabled
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Transmission Fluid Change Instructions : EVO 8
Hey Guys,
www.EvoMoto.com has just put up a brand new tech article that shows you how to change your transmission fluid.
Transmission Fluid Change
Whether for regular maintenance or to replace the OEM fluid for improved shifting, changing the tranny fluid is a simple process. Mistubishi recommends changing the transmission fluid every 15000 miles for severe use or every 30000 miles for regular use. There is no such thing as too often, so feel free to change the fluid at earlier intervals, especially if you race. Regularly changing the transmission fluid will keep it in top shape and reduce wear on an extremely expensive part of the driveline! < Click here to read the full article >
www.EvoMoto.com has just put up a brand new tech article that shows you how to change your transmission fluid.
Transmission Fluid Change
Whether for regular maintenance or to replace the OEM fluid for improved shifting, changing the tranny fluid is a simple process. Mistubishi recommends changing the transmission fluid every 15000 miles for severe use or every 30000 miles for regular use. There is no such thing as too often, so feel free to change the fluid at earlier intervals, especially if you race. Regularly changing the transmission fluid will keep it in top shape and reduce wear on an extremely expensive part of the driveline! < Click here to read the full article >
Jul 12, 2005, 12:30 PM
#2
Nice. How important is it to let the overfill fluid out before tighten the nut back? I overfill but did not let the fluid leak out completely before tighten the nut back.
Thanks
Mar 15, 2020, 03:29 PM
#7
Recovered from the wayback machine.................
Transmission Fluid Change
Whether for regular maintenance or to replace the OEM fluid for improved shifting, changing the tranny fluid is a simple process. Mistubishi recommends changing the transmission fluid every 15000 miles for severe use or every 30000 miles for regular use. There is no such thing as too often, so feel free to change the fluid at earlier intervals, especially if you race. Regularly changing the transmission fluid will keep it in top shape and reduce wear on an extremely expensive part of the driveline!
1.
A jack (no ramps) is also necessary to ease getting under the car, however, the car needs to be on level ground during filling. With the driver side front safely supported, place a drain pan under the Drain plug. Remove the 17mm Fill plug and then 24mm Drain plug. Both have aluminum washers between them and the transmission, so be careful not to loose them. TECH TIP: if possible, drain the transmission fluid while the fluid is warm. You don't want to burn yourself, but the fluid will drain easier when it is warm.
2.
Once the tranmission has started draining, lower the car back down to the ground so it is level. If that is not possible, lower it as much as possible without smashing the drain pan. The draining process can linger with a fine line of fluid coming out for a long time (top pic). If you are refilling with a different fluid, you should try to let as much drain out as possible. If the transmission is being refilled with the same fluid that was in it, it's not quite as important.
3.
While waiting for the fluid to drain, clean any metal shavings off of the drain plug magnet so it can be reinstalled (bottom pic).
4.
When drain is completed, raise the driver side front again and reinstall the Drain plug, making sure the aluminum washer is in place. Torque the Drain plug to 23 FT-LBS. One of these cheapo extended funnels (top pic) is very easy to use if the airbox is removed or if you have an aftermarket intake that offers some free space to wedge the funnel. If the factory airbox is still on and being used, a simple solution is to "extend" the funnel further (as shown) using some 3/8" ID vinyl hose available at any local home improvement store. We use this method for the transfer case fluid change and it works like a charm. The funnel can be extended as long as needed, making it very easy to find a suitable location to place it for filling.
5.
With the extra tubing on the funnel, it has no probably at all reaching with the stock airbox and snorkel in place (bottom pic).
6.
Under the car, place the funnel tube into the Fill hole on the transmission. Here we are filling with the airbox off, so no added extension tube is being used. With the funnel tube in the Fill hole, place the drain pan under the Fill hole and lower the car back to the ground. Like the transfer case, the fill level is to the bottom of the Fill hole. The transmission holds 2.9 Quarts of GL-4 SAE 75W-85W or 75W-90 gear oil.
7.
Fill the fluid slowly and once you have filled the correct amount of fluid, pull the funnel out and let any excess fluid run out of the Fill hole. When no fluid comes out, the tranny has the correct level. Wipe any fluid from the transmission case and replace the Fill plug making sure the aluminum washer is place. Torque to 23 FT-LBS and you are done!
Transfer Case Fluid Change
Mistubishi recommends changing the transfer case fluid every 15000 miles for severe use or every 30000 miles for regular use. There is no such thing as too often, so feel free to change the fluid at earlier intervals, especially if you race. Regularly changing the transfer case fluid will keep it in top shape and reduce wear on an extremely expensive part of the driveline!
1.
Use a jack (no ramps) to raise the passenger front side of the car to access the Fill and Drain plugs on the transfer case (t-case). Remove the Fill plug and then the Drain plug. Have a drain pan under the t-case to catch the fluid. NOTE: the Fill and Drain plugs on the t-case have aluminum washers on them, do not lose them!
2.
Lower the car back to level ground to assist in draining the t-case completely. While draining, clean any shavings off of the magnet on the Drain plug (pic). Once draining is complete, raise the car again and replace the Drain plug making sure the aluminum washer is in place. Torque the Drain plug to 23 FT-LBS.
3.
Since the Fill hole is on the side of the t-case, it can be tricky to get the replacement fluid in. A hand pump from your local auto parts store would be necessary, however, being a little creative can be cheaper and make the job even easier. 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) vinyl tubing from the local home improvement store (about $4 for 10 feet) can be used to extend a funnel, allowing the funnel to placed safely on top of the engine and be long enough to reach the Fill hole. NOTE: 1/2" OD tubing is the largest that will fit into the Fill hole!
4.
The t-case should be filled with the car level. On a lift, this isn't an issue, but when changing the fluid in the garage, all four tires should be on the ground. Filling from the top of the engine bay (either with a pump or funnel) is the way to do it. Place the funnel from the top of the engine bay in a location where it can be held securely and reach the Fill hole on the transfer case, keeping the tube as unkinked as possible (top pic).
5.
Insert the hose into the Fill hole on the t-case (bottom pic). It is a good idea to place a rag or shop towel on top of the downpipe directly under the Fill hole. Any fluid overflow that runs onto the downpipe will burn, smoke and smell when the car is started 
6.
Lower the car to the ground so it sits level. This is done since the the fill level is the height of the bottom of the Fill plug. On level ground, if too much fluid is used, any excess will simply run out of the Fill plug on a level car. Many people will use the "overflow" method of measuring to ensure the case is not over-filled, but it never hurts to measure the correct amount of fluid. The transfer case holds .58 Quarts and the service manual specifies API GL5 SAE90 fluid, but we highly recommend using Mitsubishi Diaqueen fluid (OEM). The fluid is rather thick and can take some time to fully drain from the funnel. When getting close to max capacity, fill the funnel slowly and wait for it to completely drain. A funnel with a long tube can hold a decent amount of fluid, so make sure the fluid already in the funnel is taken before adding more.
7.
If you cannot reach it from the top, raise the car and pull the tube out of the Fill hole, but lower the car again after the tube is removed. The tube must be removed since it blocks the entire hole and may keep excess fluid from draining. The car must then be level (and on level ground) to ensure that the hole is not too high or low in relation to the fluid. When no fluid comes out of the Fill hole on a level car, raise it up again and replace the Fill plug making sure the aluminum washer is in place. Torque the Fill plug to 23 FT-LBS, wipe any fluid off of the downpipe and transfer case, remove the jack and you are done!
Transmission Fluid Change
Whether for regular maintenance or to replace the OEM fluid for improved shifting, changing the tranny fluid is a simple process. Mistubishi recommends changing the transmission fluid every 15000 miles for severe use or every 30000 miles for regular use. There is no such thing as too often, so feel free to change the fluid at earlier intervals, especially if you race. Regularly changing the transmission fluid will keep it in top shape and reduce wear on an extremely expensive part of the driveline!1.
A jack (no ramps) is also necessary to ease getting under the car, however, the car needs to be on level ground during filling. With the driver side front safely supported, place a drain pan under the Drain plug. Remove the 17mm Fill plug and then 24mm Drain plug. Both have aluminum washers between them and the transmission, so be careful not to loose them. TECH TIP: if possible, drain the transmission fluid while the fluid is warm. You don't want to burn yourself, but the fluid will drain easier when it is warm.2.
Once the tranmission has started draining, lower the car back down to the ground so it is level. If that is not possible, lower it as much as possible without smashing the drain pan. The draining process can linger with a fine line of fluid coming out for a long time (top pic). If you are refilling with a different fluid, you should try to let as much drain out as possible. If the transmission is being refilled with the same fluid that was in it, it's not quite as important.3.
While waiting for the fluid to drain, clean any metal shavings off of the drain plug magnet so it can be reinstalled (bottom pic).4.
When drain is completed, raise the driver side front again and reinstall the Drain plug, making sure the aluminum washer is in place. Torque the Drain plug to 23 FT-LBS. One of these cheapo extended funnels (top pic) is very easy to use if the airbox is removed or if you have an aftermarket intake that offers some free space to wedge the funnel. If the factory airbox is still on and being used, a simple solution is to "extend" the funnel further (as shown) using some 3/8" ID vinyl hose available at any local home improvement store. We use this method for the transfer case fluid change and it works like a charm. The funnel can be extended as long as needed, making it very easy to find a suitable location to place it for filling.5.
With the extra tubing on the funnel, it has no probably at all reaching with the stock airbox and snorkel in place (bottom pic).6.
Under the car, place the funnel tube into the Fill hole on the transmission. Here we are filling with the airbox off, so no added extension tube is being used. With the funnel tube in the Fill hole, place the drain pan under the Fill hole and lower the car back to the ground. Like the transfer case, the fill level is to the bottom of the Fill hole. The transmission holds 2.9 Quarts of GL-4 SAE 75W-85W or 75W-90 gear oil.7.
Fill the fluid slowly and once you have filled the correct amount of fluid, pull the funnel out and let any excess fluid run out of the Fill hole. When no fluid comes out, the tranny has the correct level. Wipe any fluid from the transmission case and replace the Fill plug making sure the aluminum washer is place. Torque to 23 FT-LBS and you are done!Transfer Case Fluid Change
Mistubishi recommends changing the transfer case fluid every 15000 miles for severe use or every 30000 miles for regular use. There is no such thing as too often, so feel free to change the fluid at earlier intervals, especially if you race. Regularly changing the transfer case fluid will keep it in top shape and reduce wear on an extremely expensive part of the driveline!1.
Use a jack (no ramps) to raise the passenger front side of the car to access the Fill and Drain plugs on the transfer case (t-case). Remove the Fill plug and then the Drain plug. Have a drain pan under the t-case to catch the fluid. NOTE: the Fill and Drain plugs on the t-case have aluminum washers on them, do not lose them!2.
Lower the car back to level ground to assist in draining the t-case completely. While draining, clean any shavings off of the magnet on the Drain plug (pic). Once draining is complete, raise the car again and replace the Drain plug making sure the aluminum washer is in place. Torque the Drain plug to 23 FT-LBS.3.
Since the Fill hole is on the side of the t-case, it can be tricky to get the replacement fluid in. A hand pump from your local auto parts store would be necessary, however, being a little creative can be cheaper and make the job even easier. 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) vinyl tubing from the local home improvement store (about $4 for 10 feet) can be used to extend a funnel, allowing the funnel to placed safely on top of the engine and be long enough to reach the Fill hole. NOTE: 1/2" OD tubing is the largest that will fit into the Fill hole!4.
The t-case should be filled with the car level. On a lift, this isn't an issue, but when changing the fluid in the garage, all four tires should be on the ground. Filling from the top of the engine bay (either with a pump or funnel) is the way to do it. Place the funnel from the top of the engine bay in a location where it can be held securely and reach the Fill hole on the transfer case, keeping the tube as unkinked as possible (top pic).5.
Insert the hose into the Fill hole on the t-case (bottom pic). It is a good idea to place a rag or shop towel on top of the downpipe directly under the Fill hole. Any fluid overflow that runs onto the downpipe will burn, smoke and smell when the car is started 6.
Lower the car to the ground so it sits level. This is done since the the fill level is the height of the bottom of the Fill plug. On level ground, if too much fluid is used, any excess will simply run out of the Fill plug on a level car. Many people will use the "overflow" method of measuring to ensure the case is not over-filled, but it never hurts to measure the correct amount of fluid. The transfer case holds .58 Quarts and the service manual specifies API GL5 SAE90 fluid, but we highly recommend using Mitsubishi Diaqueen fluid (OEM). The fluid is rather thick and can take some time to fully drain from the funnel. When getting close to max capacity, fill the funnel slowly and wait for it to completely drain. A funnel with a long tube can hold a decent amount of fluid, so make sure the fluid already in the funnel is taken before adding more.7.
If you cannot reach it from the top, raise the car and pull the tube out of the Fill hole, but lower the car again after the tube is removed. The tube must be removed since it blocks the entire hole and may keep excess fluid from draining. The car must then be level (and on level ground) to ensure that the hole is not too high or low in relation to the fluid. When no fluid comes out of the Fill hole on a level car, raise it up again and replace the Fill plug making sure the aluminum washer is in place. Torque the Fill plug to 23 FT-LBS, wipe any fluid off of the downpipe and transfer case, remove the jack and you are done!Last edited by CDrinkH2O; Mar 15, 2020 at 03:34 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DontStopMe (Mar 15, 2020)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2005, 2006, capacity, case, change, evo, evo8, fluid, location, oil, transfer, transmision, transmissiob, transmission, viii
