lmao

 

has anyone tried puting the jack stands under the control arm

 

there are 4 plastic coated jack points on under the car, look and you will find them

 

I lifted mine for 3 years with a huge jack on the factory jacking points... And again I will repeat: DO NOT USE THE SUB-FRAME BEAM!!!! Even towards the front it can still buckle pretty easily... and it makes selling the car that much harder since so many idiots think its the actual frame.

 

Picture? I looked, cant find them, and no one else has mentioned them.

 

i dont have pictures sorry, but when my car was put on the lift to install my Voltex Diffuser my mechanic said wow look at those, he never saw them on another car, they are 4 plastic coated jack points about i think 12" in and they are about 1" x 3" i think, he was amazed with some other stuff.

my car is a 05 mr

someone else here must know what im talking about?

 

Get a picture some time if you can, Im interested to see what your referring to.

 

anyone have problems finding the front jack point? it is under the plastic underbody?

 

Yeah, you gotta take off that front cover to get to it.

 

That sucks. I have to jack up the side with scissor jack to be able to take off the cover.

 

I did that for the longest time. Then I got a low profile jack, so I can jack the car up from the side now. Now, I just leave half the front cover screws off. Then again, I only put that front jacking point cover back on for track days. I leave it off otherwise.

 

I've been recently using the area where the scissor lift stock jack point is with a floor jack. Seems solid. I then put jackstands under the from sub-frame rail where it's double strength. When I've jacked the back I used a folded up towel on the floor jack puck so it wouldnt scratch the diff but I'll try the tow hook next time.

 

Resurrecting to ask again about those pads... AND adding some pics of the jack points I've used.

My jacks have curved saddles which fit the frontmost part of the frame rail nicely. This bit seems plenty strong, the doubling over of the sheet here prevents buckling or crushing.



For the rear I used some 2x4 "pads" on the suspension pick up points.



I've had it like this overnight a few times w/no issues.

 

^ seems unstable with the curve of the jack stands and the wood. Be careful.

 

It's actually been very stable. I guess that angle doesn't show it, but the 2x4 is making very good contact on the pickup point, at several spots... the edge of the sheet metal forming the box of the pickup, and also the round of the trailing link. The wood is captured very securely by the weight of the car. In fact, it almost looks to me like those pieces were sized like that by design, to allow for this. The saddle also digs in slightly on the soft wood. By aligning it like this instead of 90° deg away, I'm able to raise and lower the front and the car will "rock" nicely on the curve of the saddle as a fulcrum.

Having said all that, it still seems imperfect to me, which is why I posted, so thanks for the input. I'll see if I can get a better shot next time that shows the contact I'm getting.

I still want to know about those pads though, that would be the ideal.