Joe250

iTrader: (11)

The Evo is a little unusual when it comes to bleeding the brakes. Thanks to others on the board for pointing these items out. I combined that info with some pics to create this how-to.

http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html

Joe
www.joe250.com

vtluu

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Joe. I bled my brakes and clutch line when I did the SS clutch line install. Used a Motive power bleeder. My only mistake was forgetting to make sure the seal on the power bleeder was good before starting to pump brake fluid. Result: brake fluid leak, nasty puddle on the floor and many paper towels wasted. Oops! After I fixed that things went smoothly. I see you used ATE Super Blue as well. I'd heard you needed two quarts/litres of the stuff to bleed the brakes but I think had I not wasted a bunch of it bleeding the clutch line excessively (not to mention spilling a bunch of it due to aforementioned leak) I think I could have done the job with one litre. Also, I used a suction gun to draw out as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible, so that the new fluid would replace the OE fluid more quickly.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

nice work! .. what are your opinions on bleeding while the engine is running?

I think the service manual recommends that. I must check it out again..

Xska555

iTrader: (13)

Great tutorial but my question is do you have to do all 4 calipers if you only worked on the one or even both front calipers, also this might sound crazy to you guys but im putting on a set of evo front calipers on my 2000 galant and my calipers in the rear only have 1 bleeder and im setting up for the project, but how would this change the bleeding pattern if i do follow the instructions, or can i get away with just bleeding the fronts,,,, one more thing does anybody know the length of the stock wheel studs,,, Thanks

gt40

iTrader: (1)

Good writeup

Another way would be to get some speedbleeders.

These things work great: install, loosen the bleeder a quarter to 1/2 turn and pump the pedal a couple of times till fluid comes out. Tighten and do the next wheel.

Don't forget to keep adding brake fluid to the fluid container during the process.

Start from the back and do the inside and out calipers one a time. They are a 1 way valve so you can bleed your brakes yourself easily.

To avoid mess, hook up a colonoscopy bag with a line going to a container.

I can do all 8 in under 10 minutes!

You want 9 of these- inside and outside of each wheel + clutch bleeder in the engine compartment. The clutch uses the same fluid.

Here is the part number:
http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/c=ANK6...roduct/SB1010S

Don't forget to get 9...

ultraflip

iTrader: (1)

any reasoning for having the engine running while bleeding brakes?

Matz

iTrader: (3)

Hi Joe,

Nice work! Thanks for all of the detail in that. I've always been the "brawn", and my dad did the brains part of it all, so I never learned when I was a kid.

I'd like to be able to do this myself and am interested in the speedbleed product. So to install this, I just remove the stock nipple and replace it with the speedbleed, right? I guess I don't have to worry about fluid coming out unless someone accidentally pumps?

Thanks!

MitsuJoe

iTrader: (133)

I still dont't see how the speedbleeder helps you?

Also does anyone know the capacity required to flush the brake system? I am trying to see how much fluid to order.

gt40

iTrader: (1)

Speed bleeder is a one way valve so you can bleed your brakes yourself without introducing air into the lines. Loosen the valve a 1/4 turn and pump and then tighten it. Keep topping off the fluid. You can bleed your brakes in a couple of minutes flat by yourself with the tires off.

Curt@MrLed

iTrader: (107)

i dont think anyone can screw up now... good job man.

Matz

iTrader: (3)

When I used to help my dad bleed brakes, it was a two person job. I'd pump the brakes when he told me to, and he'd be opening the nipple on the calipers to let the brake fluid out. He'd open the nipple, I'd pump the brake and then hold the pedal down while he closed the nipple off.

With the speedbleeder, it's a one way valve, so you know that air can't go back into the system. So you simply hook your hose and bottle up to the speedbleeder, loosen it, then go into the car and pump the brakes. You don't need another person there to help you with the job, which is pretty nice.

salukidude

iTrader: (3)

I assume it's necessary to bleed the clutch at the same time, correct? If so, what order is the clutch nipple in the process? Is it after all eight of the brake nipples, or something different? Also, do I just depress the clutch to bleed it, and how many depresses is usually necessary to do so? Any quick replies would be really appreciated as I need to do this today. Thanks!

salukidude

iTrader: (3)

bump

Matz

iTrader: (3)

Hi there, I just checked the service manual, and it says, "For bleeding, never "pump" the clutch pedal. This may cause an oil leak at the clutch cylinder."

Here are the steps the manual outlines:

1. Connect a hose with a bottle to the bleeder screw
2. Open the bleed nipple
3. Depress the clutch pedal slowly. Open the bleeder screw to let air and brake fluid out. Close the bleeder screw. Release the clutch pedal. Repeat until only brake fluid and no air comes out.
4. Check that the brake fluid reservoir level stays between "MAX" and "MIN" marks throughout the clutch bleeding process.

Hope this helps!

salukidude

iTrader: (3)

Ok, thanks. I think this is good reason to get a FSM pronto! I didn't "pump" the clutch, but I didn't exactly go by the steps listed. Still runs and feels good though.