manss

"look at the join date" lmao

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

Just to update this thread, with current pricing.. it is $124.57 before shipping for the parts for this DIY (all 4 endlinks). Definitely a worthwhile way to create some quality end links, and control preload at all 4 corners.

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

Just an update, ordered these yesterday, assuming they came from California... they were shipped out of Cleveland Ohio area, I had them next day. Exciting.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Instead of using rod ends along with a nut and bolt, wouldnt you be better off with a ball joint linkage such as this?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/60745k641/=mdj2a0

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

funny i thought that same thing, but after piecing it out and seeing the cost I just clicked submit order rather than look at it more.

Interlude

Thank you!!!
Definitely on my to do list!

donour

iTrader: (6)

You might be able to get away with them, but they aren't load rated by the manufacturer.

d

detroit evo

iTrader: (3)

I loved this post! Dealers were quoting about $60-$70 bucks for each new end-link. It made a cheaper solution for the front end-links quick and easy to source and fabricate.


I paid out @$90 total for both. Mine were a little more costly as I chose to use all metric parts and added another set of retainers for each rod end. So 8 total rod end retaining washers.

Attached is the parts list for the Front end links (Metric). Missing from the list are the Yellow Zinc Grade 10.9 10mm bolts that I sourced from Fastenal for about $0.50 each.

I will do the rear links when I get to the point of rebuilding the rear suspension.

Also I didn't end up using the 3/8 inch stainless washers, I just bought a set of eight 10mm stainless washers from ACE HARDWARE.

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

Looks like the prices have gone up slightly, but still a great value! mine are on the way. thank you for sharing!

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

I know people have broken these on track/auto-x cars. I'm assuming due to the huge spring rates they run. I'm considering going up a size on all the threaded connections and ball joints (extra 2400 lb capacity) and using high-misalignment step down inserts to bring it back to a 3/8" bolt. Anyone else tried this?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#4723t1/=qphi97

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

what part is breaking?

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

I honestly can't remember if I've ever heard or seen what broke. I've come across it in some other threads but I can't remember what ones or who had them break. I want to say I've only heard of couple people breaking them so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

donour

iTrader: (6)

It would surprise me to hear about failures in normal use, even on the track. You can certainly break one with a a large off or impact. If they are installed incorrectly (e.g. bound) then you could potentially transfer a disproportionate amount of suspension load to the the link. They would fail for sure in the case that they are handing the full corner load.

It's been several years since I looked at the numbers, but I remember that they were several times stronger than the OE part.

donour

PS: I ran 1000 lb/in springs in the rear.

jason42003

iTrader: (18)

So since you are still here just to confirm, for the rear endlinks I just need the 4" threaded pieces and 2 lh thread male ends (2458k142) and 2 rh thread male ends (2458k141) and the various bolts and washers correct?

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

Unless you have a need for both rear end links only one is necessary to get rid of preload.