Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Installation of AMS's finely crafted brake duct kit on the Evo IX is complicated slightly by all the crap stuff up into the right and left side ducts. This is not a difficult install, but it can be time consuming. This took me about 10 hours working alone half of the time. Most of that time was spent figuring out where to route the tubing. If you choose to route things as I have, you should be able to do this in significantly less time. Hope this helps someone!

I take no responsibility for any damage that may come to your car or yourself as a result of using this guide. Use at your own risk.

First things first. Block the wheels, jack the car and remove the front wheels.

Take the caliper off. Turn the wheel towards you to make removal easy. The bolts are not on with a huge amount of force and should be relatively easy to get off. Take the caliper and rotor off as one unit as the caliper should stay lightly clamped to the rotor. Block the brake assembly up off to the side leaning against the inside of the wheel well making sure not to damage the brake lines.

Remove the stock dust shield and small clamp on the ABS sensor. The clamp can be taken off by hand.

Install the new SS dust shield with the supplied bolt and crush washer.



Use the supplied zip tie style steel wrap to secure the ABS sensor to the hub taking care to make sure the wire cannot fall into any moving parts.



Put the duct funnel on the inside of the caliper braket and put the bolts through. Put anti-seize on the bolts as the caliper is aluminum. Caliper bolts should be torqued to 80+/- 7 ft/lbs.



Reattach the the caliper and rotor assembly to the hub and put the wheel back on.

For the work under the car, I am fortunate enough to have a lift at my disposal. Without a lift, this install is nearly impossible as the spacing for the tubing, especally the passenger side, is very very tight and difficult to route. If you do it without a lift, more power to you.

Removal of the undertray is covered elsewhere on this forum, but it is relatively easy though time consuming (putting it back on is a hell of a lot easier). The key to removing the plastic screws is to be very light when applying pressure and make sure the washer part is not turning with your screwdriver.

With the undertray removed you can see how clogged the lower intakes are. Unlike with the Evo VIII, there is no space near the intercooler to place brake intakes. There is also the ACD pump on the drivers side intake.

First, cut a small hole in the oil cooler guide duct . Try to keep the hole as small as possible as you still want airflow to the cooler. I cut mine as a square and left some material in place to push against the ducting to keep it from moving. This is the hole, sorry for the crappy picture.



Getting the ducting on the supplied intake piece is a bit difficult. It baffles me as to why the intake could have not used a slightly smaller diameter of metal tubing in order to aid in the joining of it to the ducting, but it is what it is. I cut three rungs of the metal wire in order to get the piece to fit into the ducting. Once the worm clamp is tightened down, everything feels quite solid. Using a small piece of wire, fish the duct with intake through your new hole.



Zip tie the intake to the metal grill with supplied 4' ties (I suggest having some extra because I changed the location of mine more than once). If you are doing the passenger side first and have some care about the aesthetic appeal of your car, make sure you put the intake approximately three 'diamonds' of grill away from the outside edge of the intake. You will be far more pressed for grill space on the other side of the car, and this placement will keep things somewhat symmetrical.

When routing this tube it is very important that you take care to keep the tubing secured and away from the crank and condenser. I attached in multiple points mainly to the oil sending and oil tubing unit using the 11" ties (again, have extra).




On the edge of the wheel well shroud there is somewhat of a 'nub'. I chose to keep this part in tact in order to better hold the tubing away from moving parts. However, cutting the entire nub off is probably not a bad idea and will take less time then trimming a 2" hole in it. Make sure to leave as much material in the shroud as possible towards the front of the car to keep the tubing at a right angle to the funnel on the wheel. Drill a hole in the shroud and run another zip tie around it where you make the turn towards the wheel.



When doing the final length cut on the tube, measure twice and cut once! Move the wheels from lock to lock to get an idea of how long to cut the tubing. Cut a little more than you think as your estimation is probably a little short, as mine was. When cut to length, snip another three wires worth down the tubing to open it up and intall it on the caliper. Tighten the worm clamp on and move on to the other side.

Using wire again, draw the attached intake and tubing to the grill. Attach to the grill in the same way as before, do your best to be symetrical. A little time now making things pretty will be worth it in the long run .



Routing of this tube is much easier than the other side. Zip tie to both the bottom of the ACD pump and the intercooler tubing. Then run the tube underneath the transfer case. Don't zip tie anything else for now. Get the undertray partly back into position, specifcally the part near the rear of the tray on the drivers side. Route the tube underneath the nub in the wheel well shroud on this side. Drill a hole above where you are making the angle to the wheel and zip tie. Again, check for length, cut, snip wires, and tighten on the worm clamp.






It is up to you, but before you completely put the pain in the *** undertray all the way back on, I would take a trip around the block to compress the suspension and apply full lock.

Finished!



The picture coverage isn't as good as I had hoped, as such, if anyone would like a specific picture of something, just say so and I'll do my best to get it. Have fun!

eve-slow

iTrader: (68)

You should route the passenger side duct closer to the intercooler. Give more space for air to hit the oil cooler.

Also if you cut some of the plastic off on the drivers side you could get a more direct route.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Thats what I was going to do with the passenger's side but I couldn't stand the asymmetry of it... I can't imagine the air flow will decrease by much if anything, and the oil cooler is hardly used to full effect based on how much of the surface area is covered by the routing shroud, straight from the factory.

As for the driver's side, this is both how AMS instructs to do it, and it keeps the tubing at a right angle to prevent the tubing from either going into the half shaft or being pinched by the wheel.

I appreciate the input! Thanks.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Just used tracked the car today and it works very well. The faster you drive, the better the brakes feel. Good stuff AMS