bigben

iTrader: (4)

I've been pondering this for about a week now. I did this as to help with heel-toe downshifting. As all you you know by now, the evo pedals aren't lined up "across the board" like we would all want. I've been able to successfully pull off the heel-toe downshift a few times, but I figured something out to aid in bringing the gas pedal closer to the height of the brake pedal. There may be a way to align them perfectly, but I haven't had a chance to get underneath the car to see just how the bolts that are in the firewall holding the pedal in place are mounted to the car. If they can be taken out and longer ones put in, then I'll be able to align them perfectly. Until then, I'll tell you what I did in the mean time.

You'll need a socket wrench of your choice (I used a 1/4" drive), at least a 6" extension (go ahead and laugh, I know what you're thinking), and both a 10mm and a 12mm (preferably deep sockets, but normal depth ones will work also) socket. The 10mm is for adjusting the throttle cable bolts on the intake manifold (you may not have to do this, but have them out just in case) and the 12mm is for the nuts holding the gas pedal down. Also, I used some flat washers from the parts store, about 1-1/8" outside diameter x 3/8" inside diameter x 1/16" thick. I'll be using a total of 8, 4 for each bolt. The total adjustment will be 1/4". It may not sound like much, but you'll feel it when you go to heel-toe downshift and blipping the throttle will be easier.

Pop the hood, start your car, and let it warm up. You'll need to know what the idling RPM is, and mine is 900. For the sake of me not having a digital camera, look under your dash and notice the nuts and bolts holding the gas pedal assembly to the firewall. There is about 1/4" of exposed thread showing on the bolts, that's about how much you're going to be able to move the pedal closer to the height of the brake pedal. Just for reference, there is a difference of 1" between the top of the brake pedal and the top of the gas pedal. Like I said, if those bolts can be replaced with longer ones, then it can be adjusted further. Remove both 12mm nuts and move the gas pedal assembly out of the way. I didn't do anything to the throttle cable, so leave it attached. Put 4 washers on each bolt, and put the gas pedal assembly back on the bolts and start tightening the nuts back down. I put both of them on, but completely tightened down the top one first. The RPMs didn't raise on my car yet. Start tightening the bottom nut down now. After some turns you'll hear the RPM's raise. Mine raised to around 1500-1700. I used and awl to scratch around the bolts on the intake manifold for a "stock location" reference to set it back to oem specs if you ever remove the washers and put everything back to normal. You'll need to "loosen" the bolts on the intake manifold now to compensate for taking out the slack of the cable. Adjust the RPMs back down to what your car normally idles at, or however you want it set.

If you are not pleased with the changes, simply put everything back the way it was. Do not forget to tighten the nuts back down on both the manifold and the pedal assembly! I'll post back the results, but keep in mind that my results will be if I think it makes it easier to heel-toe downshift or not. It's just my opinion. You'll have to try it yourself if you like. When I get a chance to see if those bolts can be replaced, i'll let you know, but I'm sure they were welded on the firewall at the factory. This is a cost effective alternative to fabbing up a custom pedal assembly, modifying the oem one, or buying some aftermarket pedals to aid in heel-toe downshifting.

bigben

iTrader: (4)

Wow, no comments or anything, huh? Well, I am pleased with the results. That 1/4 inch made a big difference. If you didn't want to use washers, you could get a 1/4 piece of flat steel and use the back part of the pedal assembly to trace out a template to cut out instead. Just drill out the appropriate size holes and file/grind down any unwanted sharp edges.

SevenSins

i am currently following your directions, ill see how it goes and post back up!

SevenSins

ok single handedly the best mod I have ever done to my car!

It seriously feels so much better

::::::::::nly concern would be that when mashing the gas there is much more clearance between the pedal backing and the floor stopper, meaning if you just slammed it with all hell you could potentially stretch th eline or break it....

but oh well!!!!

Heal toes are literally prob 75% better and more fun now!!!!

bigben

iTrader: (4)

Glad to hear it. Blipping the throttle is so much easier now. Since there is so much extra throttle cable under the hood that goes across the top of the valve cover, I'm sure it won't be a problem. I do understand that this extra length in the cable is there so that it won't bind up. You can't have a sharp bend in braided steel and expect it to operate properly. I'm gonna investigate the pedal stopper on the floor to see if there's anything needed to be done to it.

Jhutterer

Could I get an update from you guys after using it for a while? How is the throttle cable, and news on the stopper.. I am looking to adjust the pedals for more functional heel toe driving.

crazybaldhead

I don't know why it needs to be adjusted. When you have the brake pedal depressed, it lines up perfectly with the gas. Proper shoes do help, like Puma driving shoes, but I've also successfully done heel and toe downshifts with my converse low tops. Doing it with bare feet is a little difficult though.

But shoes make a big difference.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

Bigger feet make a difference too. Yes size matters

crazybaldhead

LOL, indeed!!!! I wear size 11's!!!

m34g63

iTrader: (5)

awesome! haha

Jhutterer

I wear 11's as well. The gas pedal isn't high enough for me, guess I just need practice.