Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

Either 8 or 6 will let you free. I say 6 as it's easier to get to and will let it drop straight down.

I never said thanks to you EGbeater, this how-to saved me the hassle of disconnecting the rack. Crossmember, subframe, whatever!

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

Yeah, you beat me to it but thanks to you for the clarification and thanks to EGbeater for the write-up!

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

So I got the subframe crossmember down as far as it will drop, but I'm having a hard time working the FSB out.

Which direction is easier, Passenger to Driver side? I've made the most progress going that direction.

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

That's the direction I did it, but there's nothing on the front end of my car right now besides the subframe. Just keep working at it and you'll get it. I ended up pushing the driver's side of the bar forward the further it came out and then played with the rotation to clear obstacles.

As a reminder, make sure you place the bar in the same orientation as you took it out when you do finally get it out. Had I not nested the old/new swaybars for comparison I probably would have put it in backwards. This was after me laughing about the "take a picture" comment.

EGbeater

iTrader: (35)

Agreed; I meant bolt #6.



I knew it was going to sound silly to recommend taking a picture to have a reference as to how the swaybar goes back in, but I didn't think to put bar down in the same orientation as it was in the car, and I ended up trying to put the new bar in the wrong way, so I was trying to save others that head-scratching/frustration.

I'm glad this thread has been useful to you guys.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

When I was trying to work it out it kept bumping up against the TC.

I'll try pushing the Driver side end forward towards the motor and see if that gives me the geometry I need.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

Well, that was fun.

Luckystryke

iTrader: (3)

Awesome write-up!

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

I just did this with a friend today following this guide. After hearing all the horror stories of how complicated swapping the FSB on our cars was, this turned out to go much smoother than I expected. Took us about 6-7 hours, but we were also installing the Cusco adjustable bracket and the endlinks were all seized up to the OEM one, so that added a solid hour of work.

The process in general went pretty smoothly, it just takes a while to go through all the steps but it's nothing overly complicated. We ended up leaving the downpipe connected to the rest of the exhaust and just lowered it from the front after unbolting it from the turbo and removing the 2 bolts of the first hangers.

The toughest step is #4 because of the extremely limited access. We removed the battery and had one person use a socket/ratchet from the driver's side of the engine bay, while another person was under the car holding the nut on the passenger side with a wrench.

Removing the bar was easiest by starting from the passenger side as there's less junk in the way there. Once the passenger side is out it's easier to wiggle and maneuver the bar to get the driver side out.

Thanks for the guide OP!

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

subbed... this may be just what the car needs but nervous to do it...

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

bumping this - would it be any easier with the front struts out of the car, or not really?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Just going off of memory here, and keep in mind I did it over a year ago, but I don't think it would be, I don't remember them being in the way.

joseph146

i need to try this