How To Replace Timing Belt - Mitsubishi Evo 8 [video]
Apr 14, 2017, 06:46 AM
#1
How To Replace Timing Belt - Mitsubishi Evo 8 [video]
I spent a very long time creating this video, hope you find it helpful!
Please read up the balance shaft issue here before watching:
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/p...balance-shafts
Clarification on setting the front balance shaft.
Please read up the balance shaft issue here before watching:
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/p...balance-shafts
Clarification on setting the front balance shaft.
Last edited by DontStopMe; Feb 14, 2018 at 01:56 PM.
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DontStopMe (Apr 14, 2017)
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DontStopMe (Apr 14, 2017)
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DontStopMe (Apr 14, 2017)
Apr 15, 2017, 12:36 AM
#6
Evolving Member
Thanks very much Paul.
I'm already subscribed to your YouTube channel so i was excited to see a notification earlier today about this new video. Keen to watch it.
And you're on IG too. Cool.
& finally to quote you from one of your early videos: "I LOVE THIS CAR"
I'm already subscribed to your YouTube channel so i was excited to see a notification earlier today about this new video. Keen to watch it.
And you're on IG too. Cool.
& finally to quote you from one of your early videos: "I LOVE THIS CAR"
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DontStopMe (Apr 17, 2017)
Apr 18, 2017, 04:35 PM
#7
Evolved Member
There's always a critic so here goes....
You want the tensioner pulley adjusted to where the grenade pin is loose in the tensioner. When you did the tensioner pulley adjustment on the fly I saw the grenade pin rotate so it was loose. You did it right but maybe by accident or maybe you just know what you are doing - dunno.
A loose grenade pin provides maximum travel from the tensioner. Setting the tensioner with too much plunger protrusion and having the belt become loose before the next service interval would not be good.
You want the tensioner pulley adjusted to where the grenade pin is loose in the tensioner. When you did the tensioner pulley adjustment on the fly I saw the grenade pin rotate so it was loose. You did it right but maybe by accident or maybe you just know what you are doing - dunno.
A loose grenade pin provides maximum travel from the tensioner. Setting the tensioner with too much plunger protrusion and having the belt become loose before the next service interval would not be good.
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DontStopMe (Apr 18, 2017)
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Apr 18, 2017, 04:54 PM
#8
There's always a critic so here goes....
You want the tensioner pulley adjusted to where the grenade pin is loose in the tensioner. When you did the tensioner pulley adjustment on the fly I saw the grenade pin rotate so it was loose. You did it right but maybe by accident or maybe you just know what you are doing - dunno.
A loose grenade pin provides maximum travel from the tensioner. Setting the tensioner with too much plunger protrusion and having the belt become loose before the next service interval would not be good.
You want the tensioner pulley adjusted to where the grenade pin is loose in the tensioner. When you did the tensioner pulley adjustment on the fly I saw the grenade pin rotate so it was loose. You did it right but maybe by accident or maybe you just know what you are doing - dunno.
A loose grenade pin provides maximum travel from the tensioner. Setting the tensioner with too much plunger protrusion and having the belt become loose before the next service interval would not be good.
This is also why i say in the video to "correct me if i'm wrong" and to do your own research.
Side question for you, now that its had time to settle, the grenade pin is no longer easy to remove/insert since the plunger pushed in a small bit. I assume this is normal and just the auto tensioner doing its job?
Last edited by DontStopMe; Apr 19, 2017 at 05:32 PM.
Apr 18, 2017, 10:00 PM
#9
Evolved Member
The DSM manual for the same engine had you measuring the protrusion of the tensioner pin. Doing this from under the car was difficult. I actually made two gauges. If one fit between the tensioner arm and the tensioner body, it was too loose. If the other didn't fit it was too tight. When people started pointing out that getting the pin to be a loose fit accomplished the same thing no one was unhappy.
Apr 18, 2017, 10:02 PM
#10
And bookmarking this too. Great videos man. Is there a way we can follow certain people on this forum so we see their new posts, kind of like with Facebook? OP would be someone I'd follow if that was possible on here!
Apr 18, 2017, 10:28 PM
#11
Evolved Member
And I should say, otherwise a very excellent video. You might just stick on a pointer drawing attention to the fact the grenade pin becomes loose when the belt is properly tensioned and then perfect.
The b-belt is of some concern to me. I found my factory b-belt sloppy loose at the 60K service interval. I thought I'd tensioned its replacement a little on the tight side due to this finding. I went in and retensioned the b-belt at 90K, I was hearing a noise and it was rather loose again. So I've been suggesting people revisit the b-belt 30K after installation. It really needs some sort of spring loaded tensioner.
The b-belt is of some concern to me. I found my factory b-belt sloppy loose at the 60K service interval. I thought I'd tensioned its replacement a little on the tight side due to this finding. I went in and retensioned the b-belt at 90K, I was hearing a noise and it was rather loose again. So I've been suggesting people revisit the b-belt 30K after installation. It really needs some sort of spring loaded tensioner.
Apr 19, 2017, 04:07 AM
#12
Even if you don't use youtube much, you can find my channel easier if you are subbed.
I have an entire playlist of how-to videos:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...9-e3yLzVe9kjPI
Apr 19, 2017, 04:13 AM
#13
When I did mine, as you say, let it settle, I left it overnight. Next morning the grenade pin was tight and I set it again. But I think this is just being ****. Any shop mechanic is going to shove it out the door with little wait for things to settle.
The DSM manual for the same engine had you measuring the protrusion of the tensioner pin. Doing this from under the car was difficult. I actually made two gauges. If one fit between the tensioner arm and the tensioner body, it was too loose. If the other didn't fit it was too tight. When people started pointing out that getting the pin to be a loose fit accomplished the same thing no one was unhappy.
And I should say, otherwise a very excellent video. You might just stick on a pointer drawing attention to the fact the grenade pin becomes loose when the belt is properly tensioned and then perfect.
The DSM manual for the same engine had you measuring the protrusion of the tensioner pin. Doing this from under the car was difficult. I actually made two gauges. If one fit between the tensioner arm and the tensioner body, it was too loose. If the other didn't fit it was too tight. When people started pointing out that getting the pin to be a loose fit accomplished the same thing no one was unhappy.
And I should say, otherwise a very excellent video. You might just stick on a pointer drawing attention to the fact the grenade pin becomes loose when the belt is properly tensioned and then perfect.
A
The b-belt is of some concern to me. I found my factory b-belt sloppy loose at the 60K service interval. I thought I'd tensioned its replacement a little on the tight side due to this finding. I went in and retensioned the b-belt at 90K, I was hearing a noise and it was rather loose again. So I've been suggesting people revisit the b-belt 30K after installation. It really needs some sort of spring loaded tensioner.
The b-belt is of some concern to me. I found my factory b-belt sloppy loose at the 60K service interval. I thought I'd tensioned its replacement a little on the tight side due to this finding. I went in and retensioned the b-belt at 90K, I was hearing a noise and it was rather loose again. So I've been suggesting people revisit the b-belt 30K after installation. It really needs some sort of spring loaded tensioner.
Apr 19, 2017, 03:51 PM
#14
Evolved Member
Apr 23, 2017, 11:54 AM
#15
Evolved Member
Incar, since the right motor mount (the one on the engine) needs to come off, place a jack under the pan to support the engine. Use a plank between the jack and the pan to avoid denting the pan. Once the motor mount is off, the accessory belt idler can be removed by lowering the jack a little. To remove the water pump pulley use a strap wrench. To remove the timing belt idler pulley remove the power steering pump first.
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DontStopMe (Apr 23, 2017)
