How To: Blox Front Motor Mount Install
 

Hey Guys,

I received the Blox front motor mount/roll stopper in the mail today and thought it would be a good idea to write a "how to."

I would first like to start by saying this is a very easy install and can be done on the floor of your garage in about 15 to 20 minutes, however, I encourage you to take your time to make sure everything is done right. :mitsu:

Some of these pictures were taken after the install to add greater detail to this write up.

This is the the Blox Front Motor Mount:
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7519/80854649.jpg



It comes with two 17mm bolts and a nice sticker to add to your collection:
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/5884/65582594.jpg


1. Start by jacking up the front of the car, making sure the parking brake is up and the car is in gear.

2. Locate the cross member underneath your motor and trans:
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2553/14287442.jpg



3. Locate the stock front motor mount. It will have a long 14mm bolt and a 14mm nut on the other end like so. Its a tight squeeze between the radiator hose and this nut, but its still easily accessible. I used a socket on one end and an open end wrench on the other to keep the bolt from rotating with the nut when trying to loosen it. Remove this first.
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7163/61591481.jpg

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/415/65656589.jpg


4. At this point I slid a jack under the trans to keep the entire assembly from settling. This was just a precautionary measure.



5. Next, remove the 14 mm bolt holding the front chassis brace to the cross member, and the 14mm bolt's holding that same brace to the chassis on the other side of the car, so that you could move it out of the way completley:
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/773/55572181.jpg

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/6226/72136390.jpg



6. Next, Locate the two 17mm bolts holding the front of the cross member to the chassis and unbolt these:
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/5152/60997568.jpg



7. At this point the cross member will fall from the front so it might be a good idea to support it with something as you remove the last bolt from the rear.



8. Locate the rear 17mm cross member bolt and remove this as well:

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/292/44112600.jpg



9. At this point there will be nothing left holding the cross member in place and you can slide it out from under the car. This is what you should have:

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1353/72479476.jpg



10. The bolts holding the stock motor mount onto the cross member are torqued to hell. So you may need another person to help you hold down the cross member as you remove the two 14 mm bolts securing the stock motor mount:

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/5060/85773641.jpg



11. This is a little visual comparison on how the stock motor mount looks compared to the blox mount:
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/7269/img0218gg.jpg

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/3442/img0221en.jpg

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/8265/img0219ul.jpg

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/7829/img0220sp.jpg

Need I say more?


12. After removing the stock mount, bolt up the blox mount to the cross member using the two 17 mm bolts provided in the box. There is some debate on the orientation one should bolt the mount because one of the holes on the blox mount is slightly elongated to allow for some variances from cross member to cross member. I bolted it up so that the elongated circle was towards the rear of the car and the perfect circle was towards the front. However, it does not matter which way you choose, everything will line up the same way:
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/6814/img0222zb.jpg

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/8264/img0223xm.jpg

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4831/img0225xa.jpg

13. Once you've torqued down the blox motor mount onto your cross member, follow the steps backwards and you should be golden.

14. Many people seem to have some trouble lining up the hole on motor mount to the hole on the stock bracket on the trans/motor to push the bolt through, it's not hard at all. All you have to do is take a screwdriver and line up the holes on one side while simultaneously pushing the bolt through on the other side.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1381/img0226xx.jpg

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/5994/img0228qb.jpg



Ok guys that just about covers it. I tested the product and found that my car shifts better and feels better. I did not experience any extra noise or vibrations during idle, just a minimum noise increase during cruise. Over all, one hell of a good product! {thumbup}:mitsu:

-Pal215

great write up! i installed mine while i was doing my clutch, upgrade well worth it

Thank you sir!

thanks for the write up boss!

Good write up. I was gonna do one myself, but I got lazy and too excited once I started driving my car around.

Sorry I am a noob but what exacly does the mount do?

Aftermarket engine and transmission mounts are typically more rigid that stock mounts. This works to eliminate slop. When the engine it exerting torque on the drivetrain, the opposite force (see Newton's laws here ;) ) is on the mounts. This means that the engine is trying to flop around like a dead fish in the engine bay. This is not optimal and will induce misalignment in the drivetrain. The aftermarket mounts will lock everything more in position and make the torque transmission from the engine to the drivetrain more efficient. The level to which the mounts lock the engine in place depends on the stiffness of the mounts. There are some solid metal mounts. There are polyurethane mounts of different hardness and designs. The stock mounts are usually made of a metal bushing encapsulated in rubber designed with a certain amount of give.

The downside to aftermarket mounts is that they can induce increased NVH (Noise, vibration, and harshness) in the car...:mitsu:

Get one and follow this how-to. You'll notice the difference right away.

Thanks for the info man :)

I had to fight myself to write this up lol. I know how you feel.

-pal215

Glad I could help {thumbup}!

i have torque and dicided to do it when i was doing my oil change.

nice clear write up, when i did mine forever and a day ago i couldnt be happier! With the Blox mount and my kelford 272's it makes for a lopey ride (i love lope :)) but it shifts so nice!

Nice write-up, Im doing this soon.

Nice write up and great pics. I've been debating this for a while. You said in the first post that you didn't get hardly any NVH or vibration? Has it stayed that way?

Yup! To this day no vibrations or annoying buzzing. Car just feels better.

-pal215

is this necessary .what if i did in a open bay/pit have no support will it be fine?

i did mine without supporting it, im sure 3 motor mounts can hold the engine up.
plus i read on someones thread the bolt hole for the the front mount is loose anyways so the engine can torque or whatever.

nice write up

nice DIY!!

Nice write up man! Doing mines this weekend. Wishing for better and smooth shifts.

Nice write up!!

just did this yesterday
 

I just did the install of the Blox mount on my 05 MR yesterday .

Install: no issues in the install itself. I do have the BeatRush full aluminum undertray and that takes more time to remove. I did not find any of the bolts to be frozen or hard to remove. Everything was original BTW 79K . I did see that the original engine mount through bolt hole was much larger than the bolt itself...more on that later. Rest of install was straight forward.. I used antiseize on all bolts during install. For the install I actually inserted the through bolt first and then lined up the rear bolt, then the 2 front bolts, screwing them in by hand. this avoids the slight misalignment of the through bolt others have found during the install. All bolts were then torqued to spec.

Impressions:
Despite what others have said, you will notice an increase in the vibration at idle. The stock mount was completely vibration free, the Blox you can feel in the steering wheel. It becomes more evident if the a/c is blowing. My idle is at stock specs. The vibration does go away off idle ~1K. Driving impression..i installed this to help with shifting into 2nd which has always felt very notchy and during cold weather even a slight crunch. Was not helped by different fluids so i run Diaqueen after experimenting back in the day. Anyways, i did notice a different feel to second gear shift, slightly easier to get it in. 3-4-5-6 have always been very slick...no change at all on that. Putting the car into first is still slightly notchy when cold..we'll see what happens during the Georgia winter.


Overall i'd be happier if there was less vibration but understand the stiffer material will transmit more NVH. Im pretty anal about noise in my MR though. I have done this before on other cars and i have to say doing just the blox front mount does keep the NVH to an acceptable level.

Back to the large hole in the original Mitsu front mount. For those people who want decrease the slop but wont consider stiff poly mounts, i suggest the following. Find a nylon or aluminum sleeve ( Home Depot ) that just fits into the hole in the mount and then drill it to just fit the factory bolt. This will take some slop out of the system making the rubber take all of the force rather than the engine moving until the bolt hits the metal sleeve.Ii would expect the stock mount to deteriorate quicker this way though.

Your experience may vary :-)

I noticed the same vibration WRC-LVR. Does yours go away when you go slightly above idle? It seems if I hit like 1k maybe 1.1k rpm the vibrations go away entirely.

re vibration
 

Yes anything above 1k i get no no vibrations at all. Fast cold idle no vibrations either. Vibration is noticeable and my Autometer EGT, mechanical oil and boost gauges also reflect the vibration. It isnt real harsh otherwise I would rip it out and do what I suggested with the stock mount ( sleeve the center bolt ) but if it gets worse then I may consider it....essentially I replaced it to help with cold shifting and the notchy feel of 1st gear and second gear.... it has helped with that so I will wait to see how things progress.

Thanks for the inquiry

L8r

I just did this install half hour ago.and I honestly can't feel any vibration.Maybee because I haven't had the opportunity to drive n warm up the car properly?Also I did not have any issue installing the mount.I work at a Jiffy lube so I was able to pull the car into the shop this morning n went to work.(I have a cool boss let's me work on my car whenever not busy)anyway the mount slid in perfectly did not have to pry anything holes all alligned perfect.hardest part was taking off n reinstalling dam undertray.

Just finished mines. Reporting almost no vibrations. Very little and no passenger complaints.

I've heard this also preserves the trans case if you launch a lot.Is it necessary to replace the rear one as well to really increase the chances of preserving the t/case?

Great write up.

Anyone know if Blox CT9A and CP9A front roll stopper motor mounts the same?
I got a VI...

Bump for a nice writeup it helped a lot.

Can anyone post the torque specs?

3x14mm bolts for cross member support
3x17mm blots for cross member
2x14mm bolts for blox
1x through-bolt for blox

nice diy. just did this mod and notice better response with little to no vibration compare to stock.

Very nice and simple write up on that :) Its write ups like this that make forums so useful and helpful to many of the members we have here. I can't tell you mow many times I search the forum or Google (that will 99% of the time lead to this forum) to find tips, tricks and help with questions I don't know or am not sure of. Thank you for taking to time to do this write up :)

Thanks,
Dallin

+ 1 !!

bump ? anyone ?

LINKY LINK

Thanks !! :)

^no problem elim0

Boy does it suck when you do a write up, and 3 years later your pictures go to hell hahaha.

-pal215

-

the important thing is that you tried :)

I guess you still don't have them :crap: ?

Hahaha thanks man

I wish haha. They got wiped with my old laptop

Did this mod today using ralliart bush,that was pressed in to stock mount.
Thought I would struggle to install,must say very very easy and took 15min from jacking car up to dropping car back down.

wow 15minutes?! you must of had your undertray already removed, otherwise you must be superman :lol::lol:

damm 3 years since this mod already lol..

It is a worth while Mod and helps keep your engine from dancing in your engine bay, but at the same time won't vibrate the hell out of your car like solid motor mounts do.

-pal215