kyoo

iTrader: (29)

ce28 is where my heart is at unfortunately. basically as far as 9 vs X brakes, if it fits the 9s, it will fit the Xs - but not vice versa. There are concerns about rubbing with the +28s, likely i'd need to pull (already rolled), remove bumper tab etc on 265/35-18s autocrossing.

The +34s seem ideal - do you know if the face/concavity was the same for the CE28N and the CE28 TA's? The TA's are a perfect fit, and would likely fit the X brakes as well. But IDK if the regular CE28N +34 has that same flat-face that clears brakes... i hate concave wheels

Astro_Train

iTrader: (17)

the faces on the TA models were the same as N versions. +28 is slightly more flat than +34. +34 are more roundish if that makes sense at the center of the spoke. Look up regular +28 and +34. I think +28 is ideal for the CT9A even with a 265 but depending on how low your car is the fenders may have to be pulled and the rear bumper bolt relocated. Hit up MinusPrevious. He knows his stuff when it comes to making stuff fit.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

yup, that's what he said. The 34s barely cleared the 9 calipers from what I saw, and would have a little more clearance with the X calipers. The 34s looked pretty flat to me, but couldn't tell the diff with the 28s. it's just the damn rear fitment.

anyway, thanks for the info - i'll keep on the hunt for some used ce28ns in that spec

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

bumping for anyone subbed maybe interested in selling their wheels:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...x9-5-34-a.html

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

Attachment 324936

Attachment 324937

Attachment 324938

Attachment 324939

i can now join the club! these will get powdercoated soon

kpt6

iTrader: (126)

^Nice - you found a set. How much are they going for nowadays in 18x9.5?

I don't like the idea of powder coating forged wheels and I wouldn't buy a set that has been powder coated either. I'd get them painted instead.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

why's that?

i addressed the heat with PC company i worked with here - they said they use a special low heat technique for the wheels, exactly for the concerns i addressed.

i also talked about things like

how they stand up to being torqued down
how they respond to brake dust and water
how, if any, impact on the strength of the wheel.

they said 90% of wheels on the market now are either powder coated or pvd applied.

they also said there are a lot of PC places around that essentially do not know what they're doing. Certain level of prep involved, they've seen these companies make mistakes due to wrong chemicals that will break down the surface, not proper equipment for substraight for blasting, and that use way too much heat in the curing process.

so i mean everyone's got different opinions on it. which concerns did you have?

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Sam

I think youre fine PC the wheels. I havent researched the subject recently, but the concern is the heat cycle needed to cure the PC

If these are the first trip for these wheels to be PC'd, a single heat cycle should be OK. Repeated PC treatments might be a concern

My low budget PC Rota's have been bullet proof on the street

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

got it. yea, i addressed the same concern myself, which is when they told me they use a (relatively) low heat process to cure the wheels. i'm satisfied with that.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

re: powdercoating - do people usually powdercoat the wheel mounting surface? i'm assuming not, and that should be left bare metal?

also curious about the bolt holes, if those are left the factory color etc


The company that does the PC say they PC the entire wheel - meaning the wheel mounting surface as well. they said they do wheels that go 200mph for actual racing so, I guess it goes on evenly and I shouldn't need to worry about wobble

Dan_evo_8

Epic wheels! Love this thread

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

adding some pics of my new wheels! it's very different depending on the lighting, but overall really happy with how they turned out!

Attachment 324917

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Sam

That wheel end is pure eye candy

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

I know I'm pretty late to the punch on this but figured I'd offer my .02 on this as I've taken a few college classes on material properies (90% of it is metals) and I've been powdercoating for a few years.

The heat that powder cures at isn't high enough to cause any issues with weakening the wheel. Most hardened aluminum is precipitation hardened, also called age hardened. The easiest way to explain it is that the aluminum is heated up and held at a temperature for hours and very slowly cooled. This causes the precipitates that are in the grain structure to spread out evenly and blocks dislocation movement in the material (that's how the material strength increases). The concern people have with heating forged wheels is that they will become what's called overaged and that's where the material is heated for too long which actually causes it to lose strength.

To put it in an easy perspective, aluminum is precipitation hardened usually around 800-1000F, and held at that temperature for hours, and is cooled extremely slowly. Most powders cure between 300-400F and are only in the oven for a max of 15 minutes and is air cooled immediately. It's not nearly enough time or temperature to weaken the aluminum.

Powdercoat can take a beating, it largely depends on how thickly it's laid down and how many coats are applied. I've seen videos of guys smacking brake calipers with ball peen hammers and the powder isn't coming off lol.

As for brake dust and the elements, it's much more durable than paint. I had a set of wheels coated a few years ago and ended up taking my brakes down to metal on metal. Then it rained and all the metal dust that was on my wheels formed into rust and embedded itself into the powder. I tried everything under the sun to get them clean, ended up having to use an industrial strength wheel acid (it was strong enough to melt skin, it did) and the wheels came out looking brand new, no damage to the powder whatsoever. The detail shop I was working at was amazed the wheels weren't ruined.

Also, if you want a bit more protection, you can always get the wheels ceramic coated for another layer of protection.

Oh, and those wheels look really good! I'm a big fan of greys and charcoals.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

thanks - it's a little more blue than i thought it'd be in a few shades, but overall not bad.

and yea, the powdercoating company said a big use for powdercoating was for anti corrosion and that a ton of wheels on the market today are pc'd without people being aware of it