Ballin!

 

lol not really, if i was balling it would have been fixed by now!

Today i took the dremel with some 60grit sanding wheels, to the turbine inlet and outlet and got those polished up as far as i could get. For the turbine entry i was paying particular attention to the wastegate passages. Not that these turbo's have a history of boost creep but it was an issue i was having before.

I did a little bit of port matching on the compressor outlet and the elbow i had made.

None of these things will make a major impact power wise considering i have 2-3 steps in the manifold runners i cannot get to.

Last night i also re-pinned my OEM harness for the evo 8 ecu conversion. It is alot less wires once you don't bother with the AC.

Evo 3 Pin 33 to Evo 8 pin 3 (fuel pressure solenoid)
Evo 3 Pin 8 to Evo 8 Pin 22 (fuel pump solenoid)
Evo 3 pins 3,16 (radiator fan high and low triggers) and 11 (AC fan) to Evo 8 Pin 21 (radiator fan)
Evo 3 pin 40 to Evo 8 Ecu pin 11 (boost control solenoid) (ecu base boost control with the GM 3 port )

Stuff you need to add that doesn't involve switching pins
Evo 8 pin 62 to added ODB2 port K line pin
Evo 8 pin 25 spliced for ODB2 +12v
Evo 8 pin 79 to ODB1 plug under the dash for flash pin
Evo 8 pin 43 to clutch switch
Evo 8 pin 76 spliced to AEM wideband 0-1V signal

I was pondering removing what wires i don't need but whenever i do that it ends up badly for me so i will leave well enough alone.







I really need a longer mandrel.

 

After browsing the Evo X dyno forums and not really finding many 400whp stock turbo examples i decided to get a little compressor side upgrade. From my understanding it's a waste of time putting anything larger than a 20G compressor on the TD05H turbine wheel. So that's what i got.


OEM wheel on the left


Compressor housing.


Also got my intake finished.

 

Complete!





Need to get the actuator mounts welded on and i am golden. Though i think i am going to modify the mounting tabs on the actuator itself so i can have it closer to the compressor housing for a little more room.

 

Very nice i love the color of the car I really would love to have a EVO 3 and a 6 one day myself. Guess I have to move to Japan first lol

 

Pretty much anywhere but the US you can import them now. There are a BUNCH of Evo 1-3's in Canada right now.

Did some more "free" work.




The compressor outlet on the new compressor housing needed a little gasket matching.




Did a little work on the short radius elbow (not that the outlet needed smoothing but i don't have anything more to really do at this point and its supposed to all add up right?:eusa_think::facepalm






The intake also needed a little work on the transition.

There is a small lip (about 1mm) between the intake and the compressor housing but i refuse to take a dremel to that and i don't have the means to build a jig to mount it to a lathe so its the best i can get at this point.

 

sick EVO III!!!!! black looks nice with the RPF1..

 

It's nice to see where our evos came from. Sweet old school ride

 

Thanks guys

Finally managed to get the motor out today.

Borrowed an engine hoist from a friend and an engine stand from the shop i used to work at.

My exedy organic is in top condition surprisingly enough, didn't think it would stand up to damn near 300wtq.









Every last piston had a broken ring land between the top and middle ring.


Washed down with degreaser and water


Wiped down


ATF sprayed every where (i didnt have any motor oil)

All thats left is to take out the oil squirters and bring it to the machine shop with the pistons so they can bore it 0.020 over.

My ACL race bearings and NPR rings should be here end of month just in time to assemble

 

hot DAMN these engine blocks are heavy!

Managed to get them transported from my mothers garage to the skunk works.


Cleaned off the old composite


I cant feel any ridges. I should get away with running an MLS and copper spray on the block side


Evo 3 OFH. Points oil filter towards down pipe = no bueno


Evo 8 OFH. Points filter to the floor = muy bueno

I also did the balance shaft delete on the oil pump and used the OEM stubby shaft from the 4g92. Those bearings are a PITA to get back in. Funked one up so i need to order a spare.

There was no wear on the inside of the housing from the gears against the housing. I packed it with some starplex grease to keep everything lubed and to help with priming the pump.

 

I bit the bullet and asked the machine shop to barely skim the block deck. He understands what i want in regards to surface finish and says he can do it. Should be picking it back up next friday.

Today was a day full of work. Got the front suspension and subframe off and got the angle grinder and welder to the front right chassis leg and engine bay side. The primer there is just so it doesn't rust by the time i get back to it. I will be taking that all back off when i do the proper paint.


So apparently there was a hell pile of body filler there. Doesn't really make sense to cut it out and replate it as it is in front of the suspension


This rock chip stuff is a pain in the ***


Before


After












A friend popped a hole in the oil pan for me with his step bit and i welded a nut there for the Apexi temp probe


Heater pipe delete, cut off the long supply pipe and welded a 12mm head bolt over the opening.

 

Nice 3! Subscribed!

 

Thanks !

Got the block back from the machine shop today Very pleased with the transaction. The bore finish is excellent in my opinion and the deck surface appears to be more than suitable for MLS use.

Got it home and gave it a bath. Used a gallon of H7 and sprayed water through the water pump holes. I got a good 2-3 table spoons of slag and grit out of the block. I then used some foaming engine cleaner, let that sit for 10 minutes and sprayed it down with the hose again. Dried it off with some shop rags, let it air dry a while then hit it with some break cleaner.

After it was dry i taped off the deck and sides and gave it a coat of paint. I shouldn't have a problem spotting leaks ey? Once the paint dried up i took some 15w40 and used a tire shine sprayer and wet down the bores and journals. I used an oil soaked rag to wipe oil on the deck and sides.

On to the pics!




Need to go over these with a scotch brite pad for the light rust from the washing










Bearings, rings and plasigauge should be here for next weekend.

Car city says the main bolts are here tuesday

I will be giving the block another cleaning session before assembly

 

You're building up the factory 7bolt block right? Not worried about crankwalk?

 

Yep the stock 7 bolt. I am not too concerned with crank walk to be honest. Oil starvation, oil contamination and super heavy pressure plate clamping loads appear to be the main contributors from what i have read.

I won't know if the crank play is within spec until i assemble it but neither the stock crank or block showed any signs of wear from the thrust bearing. The only thing that was really wrong with the motor was the ring landings.

Clutch wise i am not running a heavy pressure plate (Clutch Masters 2200# + ACT unspung disc + fidanza) and i have a Fluidampr crank pulley. Those along with the Kiggly HLA regulator to keep the oil where it needs to be I feel confident i won't have issues.