nhsean69

iTrader: (21)

Ive got after Market Pads.......Project MU BForce Front Pads and Project MU NS Rear Pads...They have maybe 2k miles on them.......But shaving the rotors is the options?

EvoMike03

did the problem start before or after you got those pads? I highly doubt you've warped them because i have done 10+ track events with the stock rotors and with competition race pads and they are straight. It seemes like every time i switched from my track pads to the stock pads, my car would convulse under light pedal pressure, so i have been just driving around the streets with racing pads.

dpardo

iTrader: (1)

I had that happen after a few thousand miles on my car.

I bedded the pads in at the track and never had any problems after that.

Here's a post by Chronohunter (professional driver) regarding the topic:
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Yep, it's a "material transfer" problem. You can clean them (or cook them clean) by heating them up to the point of light fade and then slow the car to a stop using no brakes if possible, you must coast the last foot with out ANY brake then kill the car in gear (no hand brake) and let it cool all the way down (1/2 hour or so). Now drive away and your "warped" rotors have magicly straightened . You can repeat this as many times a necessary over the life of the pads. Next time get some Ferodos/ Hawks/Pagids which don't have transfer issues

hotrod2448

An Impact gun with a torque stick tightens to a preset torque, usually right around what the manufacturer recomends. There is virtually no difference in tightening the wheels with an impact or a torque wrench. Nor does how tight the wheel is. The hat of the rotor is bolted to your hub and sits against the face of the hub. The wheel then sits against the face of the hat. Do you hav eany idea how tight you would have to tighten a wheel to make the rotor deflect? Not to mention the wheels are alumn. which is softer than the steel hat and steel hub and would deform first. Trust me I deal with Brembo all the time and not once have they ever hinted that an impact gun would warp a rotor. Rapid temperature changes are what warp rotors. I don't want to argue about this but, you are spreading misinformation and we have enough of that on here.

wiretap

iTrader: (2)

I'm talking about when they just have their impact guns set too high, which nearly every tire shop does.. you think they actually take the time to set it to each persons car specs? The last 2 times someone used an impact gun on my car, they had it set to around 120-140 ft/lb and I could barely get my lugnuts off.. it warped my rotors.. It isn't mis-information.. the shock from suddenly tightening the lugs, especially at high torque settings WILL warp a rotor.

infantsam

iTrader: (1)

Proper bedding, warmup and cooldown are what you should be trying to accomplish and even then if you get your brakes good and hot you can still get pulsing from uneven deposits. Fixing it - which can be repeated as often as necessary should generally follow the following steps:

Rebed aggressively once or twice and see if it at least diminishes - (heading in the right direction) - Pay particular attention to cooldown.....thats where the problems tend to start.
Nailing your brakes when they are cold w/ even mildly aggressive pads can also 'strip' a perfectly good transfer layer and lead to judder. And be careful not to overheat the rotors or pads - that can lead to other problems. That's why a race team will use temperature paint - so they can be precise.

Try some garnett paper and lots of elbow grease - then rebed.

As a last resort turn the rotors - it's a waste of good heat sink but at this point you are trying to salvage something of your rotors before replacing them.

If you consistently have this problem then I would say you have the wrong pads for the way you drive or you simply are not listening!! Brakes are as complicated as anything on your car and as a safety item require due diligence. Consider this:

Your brakes are probably the only system on your car that can only take about 10 or so full effort events before performance begins to suffer pretty badly. Your engine can likely run 13 sec quarters all day - 10 repeated stops from 120 will likely have your brakes begging for mercy.

wiretap

iTrader: (2)

http://www.raceshopper.com/how_to_install_brakes.shtml
http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/brakes.htm
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/engl...0050201rr.html
http://www.domain-b.com/automotive/g...8aug/brake.htm

Theres just some supporting evidence to how impact guns can warp rotors..
I'm not saying this is causing YOUR problem, its just something to be careful of.

fsugatorbait

iTrader: (16)

Anj, how did it go with rebedding the pads? As you know ive got the same issue, it happens when the brakes are warm and at slight pedal pressure. Drive for about 15 minutes on the hwy without using them and they are ok, but heat them up again and its back to the shimmy.

anjapower

iTrader: (18)

I did the rebedding process twice this weekend...mainly because it was tough finding a spot to do 10 consecutive 60-0 stops without attracting the local law enforcement's attention, but also because I figured it couldn't hurt to do it once more for good measure.

I did about 8 60-0 stops, drove around for 2-3 miles and then parked the car in my driveway. I waited about 2 hours, and then did probably 10 or 11 60-0 stops and then drove for 5 miles using the brakes ever so lightly once or twice, and then parked it again.

Didn't drive the car the entire weekend, and this morning on the way to work, the steering wheel still shook at 80+ mph braking

This is so gay.

adamhw

I have the same problem. car has 13500 miles. any chance of getting the dealer to fix it?

MEVO

Did you recently rotate or remove the wheels? Had the same problem (at high speeds) after I had new wheels put on. The guy who installed the wheels torqued the #$%@ outta the lug nuts, I loosened the lugs and re-torqued em to a lower lb. and then did the heat up the rotor trick. Problem solved. Be sure to check em for tightness after a day or so, to ensure they have seated on the hub correctly.

adamhw

got the dealer to fix it. warranty good for 3/36.

HwangTKD

iTrader: (2)

What ever you do, DONT go to th dealer b/c they will just resurface the rotors.......order a set of ferodo DS2500's.......these pads are harder than stock and will prevent the pad material transfer phenomenon from occuring. I had the same exact problem! I noticed that it got worse during summer months. Do a search under 75,000 mile review and read #2.

Bobby

fromWRXtoEVO

iTrader: (18)

Your rotors are unevenly worn. No doubth!

Mr. MR

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I read this whole thread. I just installed Ferrado DS 2500 front and back, did a flush, put Motul 600 fluid in. Bed the brakes per the directions supplied with said brakes. Went to an Autox on Sunday and on the way ther I noticed wheel shake when brakeing lightly at speed. If I slam on the brakes all is good. I rotated the tires also. Car was aligned within the past 3 months.

So I know that I should re-bed the brakes. Only other option is to replace all the rotors I guess. I hope I can use these pads with new rotors, I am sure that is the case. When doing rotors, I assume everyone does front and back. It would be a hell of alot easier just to do the front, on my wallet that is.