mrMTB

iTrader: (13)

A number of people every year have questions about what's the best brake fluid for their daily driver, or the best for the track, or want to know more about what people think about xyz brake fluid.

I've tried to condense the essential information about most of the brake fluids you'd want to consider.

Fluid DRY // WET
Amsoil Series 600 DOT 4 (BF4) 580 // 410
Castrol SRF 590 // 518
Neo Super DOT 610 610 // 421
Motul Racing 600 585 // 421
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 // 392
ATE TYP 200 536 // 392
Valvoline Synpower 503 // 343
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 // 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 // 290
Performance Friction 550 // 284

**Notes**
Amsoil Series 600 DOT 4 (BF4) is designed for high-temperature stability while maintaining low-temperature flow characteristics. The formulation helps keep moisture in suspension to slow its affect on the brake system while ensuring proper lubrication. Given the low cost (<$11.00 / 12 oz from Oil Doc), I'm going to give this a try during my upcoming brake flush and see how she handles out at the track.

Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers.

Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. My understanding is that this fluid is deprecated, and the new part number is somewhat of an unknown quantity. You still might be able to find the original on the shelf at your Ford dealer, though.

ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. The Type 200 appears to be out of production.

Valvoline Synpower is new to me. It was recommended by a number of persons on my regional list. Given that it's <$7.00 / pt, I might give it a chance in the near future. Comes in plastic bottles, so only buy what you need.

Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.

Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff!

Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point.

Neo Super DOT 610 is a DOT 3/4 compatible fluid and contains no silicones. Has a low vapor point to aid in the prevention of vapor lock. Comes in metal cans and can be stored. $13 per 12oz can. *Thanks CJ for pointing out this fluid.*

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

This is great info and should be a sticky. Also IMHO the wet boiling point is more important than the dry boiling point, as brake fluid starts absorbing moisture as soon as it is exposed to the atmosphere. So IMHO, one should always try to buy a brake fluid that has the highest wet boiling point.

Good post!

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Good info.

Exotic - in the sense of foreign, strange, or an introduced species? (...you know your an Eco nerd when...)

I would say Motul 600 is not that exotic. And can be found for under $20 per 500 ml bottle. And I contest the not suitable for street use. Its 100% synthetic fluid (polygycol base), so I dont think its that bad with absorbing water - Ill check after this winters storage.

michaeljr6

thanx for the info!!

mrMTB

iTrader: (13)

Glad you guys like it. I plan on keeping with the research on this, and hope to keep it up-to-date enough for you all.

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

mrMTB

THANKS MAN!

Finally, were getting usefull info again

1. My FSM states to use DOT 3 or 4 but warns to never mix and I'm clueless what one came with the car originally. Whats the difference between 3 or 4?
2. OK, the fluid with the higher BP, I assume, provides the best mechanical output in terms of breaking force, right?
3. If so would there be any advantage to the engaged clutch's holding force, or is this not the weak linkest, by a long shot, for clutches. (Reason I ask is that my budget forced me to run a clutch that has little margin of torque holding overkill)

VR4orceCJ

Catrol SRF or go home if you are serious and use your brakes to their fullest...I mean to the point the seals melt out of them and your calipers turn black, (no not purple, but you're on the road to black then). SRF will actually give you a stiffer pedal feel than any of the others I've used...and most of those listed I have. The next best fluid I've used is Neo. No, I'm not rich, but I'm serious about keeping the car on the track. I've had my brakes fail at 142mph and go off the track at 121mph stopping without major damage 2 feet from a serious tire/concrete wall while leading a race (Traqmate GPS system) ..that helped me decide that brakes were important and not to be skimped on...oh yeah that was with Motul, but not really its fault since I burned off a complete set of (R4E) pads in 14 laps (of a 16 lap race.) I've since made many changes (SRF being one) to that car's brakes (Galant VR-4) and they are much happier. SRF is worth the cost for those that track their cars hard...the first time you don't go off or even if you don't, just wasting expensive track time with a soft pedal really stinks!

mrMTB

iTrader: (13)

The difference between Dot 3/4/5.1 is the boiling point (min 412, 470, and 500 IIRC). Note that Dot 5 and Dot 5.1 are not compatible; 5.1 is compatible with 3 and 4, but 5 is a different forumulation that does not play well with the others.

The higher boiling point means that your system will soak up more heat before the fluid cannot further actuate the system. Once the fluid begins to boil, it can no longer force the pistons to do their work.

Regarding the clutch, your fluid would not impact your clutch'es ability to hold torque. Just be kind to your clutch.

CJ is right, though, in that there are people out there who really are driving their cars at 10/10, and those persons (they already know who they are) should shop higher on the hog to ensure they keep their brakes as long as possible through an event.

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

Eventhough I'm just an acceleration fiend with only track experience is in a straight line, stock brake pads still at 36000miles, what would be the ideal fluid to flush into my system, Hot humid climate, DOT 3 or 4? What kind?

mrMTB

iTrader: (13)

For the daily driver, I think the Valvoline Synpower is the best choice. It has an excellent dry boiling point, pretty good wet boiling point, and at $6-7/qt, won't break the bank. On the streets and strip, you won't overdrive this fluid before it's time to change it again.

And you really should plan on making a brake fluid change part of your 2yr/24000mi routine. Over time the brake fluid absorbs moisture from the environment and that H2O disperses through the system. While this is going on the brake system is more-or-less protected from the moisture. Once it is saturated, however, the H2O can "pool" in places and start deteriorating that part of your braking system.

VR4orceCJ

mrMTB,
Here is the info on Neo for your list:

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/bkfluid.htm

NEO "Super DOT 610" brake fluid is designed with a wet boiling point of 421°F and dry boiling point of 610°F. These specifications are well above those in the Department of Transportation specifications DOT 3 & 4. Wet boiling point is the boiling point with a specified amount of absorbed moisture; dry boiling point is after the initial moisture boil-off. Further, the low vapor rate of NEO "Super DOT 610" reduces the possibility of vapor lock in the braking system.

This stuff did me right when I was tracking my daily driver and even up till I got serious with several of my race cars. I was introduced to SRF through Marty's first few SCCA National Races and SRF is all the high level National guys use. The good thing with SRF is that you very rarely have to bleed the brakes at an event, not that we don't anyway just because we are ****.

mike127

iTrader: (19)

great post! And timely, too, as I was pondering using my remaining ATE from a previous car ( WRX, fluid only a couple of months old) on the EVO. Goodridge SS brakelines would be a good addition at this time, too.

Mike

59EVO

iTrader: (6)

Bump for the great thread!

Totally agree with putting on SS braided brake lines.

Took my car to VIR two weeks ago and I'm glad I did--coming down from 120+mph to 25mph for turn #1 was definitely a reason to change fluid and lines.

jeff_ro

iTrader: (4)

I am about to change my rotors/pads/lines and I bought some fluid to go with these changes: Ferodo Racing DOT5.1. It has a dry boiling point above 500 degrees and it seems to be a good option. I will let you know how it feels.
Details here.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/bf4.aspx

Amsoil DOT 4 580°F/410°F (DRY/WET)

One wet track day and an AX - great feeling overall. Ditched Motul for it. $13ish for 12oz.