Motive Bleeder is simply AWESOME!!!
Sep 18, 2007, 09:05 AM
#16
Rally Sport Direct looks to be the cheapest for model 107; $63 shipped.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html[/QUOTE]
stikiller also has model 0107 for $55; $65 shipped.
http://www.stikiller.com/product.php?productid=16739
Z-1 has model 107 for $67 shipped:
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2740
GTWorx carries this product too...
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html[/QUOTE]
stikiller also has model 0107 for $55; $65 shipped.
http://www.stikiller.com/product.php?productid=16739
Z-1 has model 107 for $67 shipped:
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2740
GTWorx carries this product too...
Last edited by boomn29; Oct 1, 2007 at 10:07 AM. Reason: 2 options
Sep 19, 2007, 01:16 PM
#17
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The universal one (also called "import" in some places) uses a system of chains and seals to get seated, a lot more hassle than screwing on a cap.
Sep 27, 2007, 09:45 AM
#18
Just used my Motive Power Bleeder for the first time (thx GTWorx). Definitely made things a lot easier, and it's an easy 1 man job now. Pretty straight forward really!
1 questions though:
Is there a good way to store this device? Being that the prong/connector doesn't come with a cap or anything...
1 questions though:
Is there a good way to store this device? Being that the prong/connector doesn't come with a cap or anything...
Sep 27, 2007, 04:59 PM
#19
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I would never use a pressure bleeder. It forces air to go into solution in the brake fluid, with obvious side effects.
I spent the longest time trying to figure out why a particular race team was having brake fade issues. After a while I learned they were pressure bleeding. Once they stopped doing this, the fade problems vanished.
I spent the longest time trying to figure out why a particular race team was having brake fade issues. After a while I learned they were pressure bleeding. Once they stopped doing this, the fade problems vanished.
Jan 7, 2008, 09:29 PM
#20
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I would never use a pressure bleeder. It forces air to go into solution in the brake fluid, with obvious side effects.
I spent the longest time trying to figure out why a particular race team was having brake fade issues. After a while I learned they were pressure bleeding. Once they stopped doing this, the fade problems vanished.
I spent the longest time trying to figure out why a particular race team was having brake fade issues. After a while I learned they were pressure bleeding. Once they stopped doing this, the fade problems vanished.
Jan 7, 2008, 09:41 PM
#21
i've heard it a couple times.....
if it bothers you then get this:
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp
make sure to get the 7400 hand pump version
i got one... it's so easy because you don't need to have a bleed bottle, it just contains everything. only thing is you need to run over and fill the resevoir... that's a small price to pay for not even having to break out the oil pan.
if it bothers you then get this:
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp
make sure to get the 7400 hand pump version
i got one... it's so easy because you don't need to have a bleed bottle, it just contains everything. only thing is you need to run over and fill the resevoir... that's a small price to pay for not even having to break out the oil pan.
Jan 7, 2008, 11:19 PM
#22
i've heard it a couple times.....
if it bothers you then get this:
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp
make sure to get the 7400 hand pump version
i got one... it's so easy because you don't need to have a bleed bottle, it just contains everything. only thing is you need to run over and fill the resevoir... that's a small price to pay for not even having to break out the oil pan.
if it bothers you then get this:
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp
make sure to get the 7400 hand pump version
i got one... it's so easy because you don't need to have a bleed bottle, it just contains everything. only thing is you need to run over and fill the resevoir... that's a small price to pay for not even having to break out the oil pan.
lol, anyways. What was your process? I'm assuming evac the old fluid out of the res, fill with new, hook up the vac to the screw with one of the hose/attachments, build pressure, open the screw.....wait...pump...wait...pump.....close the screw WITH fluid still moving (so as to not suck air back in after vacuum runs out?) , disconnect the pump?
Jan 8, 2008, 03:05 AM
#23
I would never use a pressure bleeder. It forces air to go into solution in the brake fluid, with obvious side effects.
I spent the longest time trying to figure out why a particular race team was having brake fade issues. After a while I learned they were pressure bleeding. Once they stopped doing this, the fade problems vanished.
I spent the longest time trying to figure out why a particular race team was having brake fade issues. After a while I learned they were pressure bleeding. Once they stopped doing this, the fade problems vanished.
Going back to science 101, liquids (normally) are non-compressable.
With the low 5-10 psi you're putting on the fluid (as long as you don't run out), i'd imagine you're just fine. I've used mine for years, and the only fade problems i'd had were killing perfectly good PF race pads with too much heat, (and no brake ducting).
Jan 8, 2008, 02:56 PM
#25
do what? if that was the case you'd see it foaming inside the tank itself.
Going back to science 101, liquids (normally) are non-compressable.
With the low 5-10 psi you're putting on the fluid (as long as you don't run out), i'd imagine you're just fine. I've used mine for years, and the only fade problems i'd had were killing perfectly good PF race pads with too much heat, (and no brake ducting).
Going back to science 101, liquids (normally) are non-compressable.
With the low 5-10 psi you're putting on the fluid (as long as you don't run out), i'd imagine you're just fine. I've used mine for years, and the only fade problems i'd had were killing perfectly good PF race pads with too much heat, (and no brake ducting).
just like coke isn't compressible but they can force a lot more co2 into it with pressurization
Nov 1, 2015, 07:14 AM
#27
sorry to bring up an old thread but does anyone know if an evo shares the same cap as a DSM? I bought the 0107 adapter after reading they were the same but after purchasing it found that they are different. I'm trying to use this on a 2g DSM.
May 2, 2016, 09:23 PM
#28
When you say you "found that they are different", do you mean you can't get it to fit?
According to Motive, 0107 is the adapter for Mitsubishi, so it should fit your car. I too thought it was not the right adapter for the Evo, but it was just really difficult to get it on.
Also, did your adapter come with another rubber o-ring? If so, try to use the smaller one. The adapter fits after I swap out to the smaller o-ring.
According to Motive, 0107 is the adapter for Mitsubishi, so it should fit your car. I too thought it was not the right adapter for the Evo, but it was just really difficult to get it on.
Also, did your adapter come with another rubber o-ring? If so, try to use the smaller one. The adapter fits after I swap out to the smaller o-ring.
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