The Official Wide Tire Thread

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Mar 1, 2012, 06:49 AM

#166

Evo8RA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PAdutch

Thats a crazy set-up. Not sure how you kept them from rubbing. Also I guess they cleared the brembo's. Pretty cool none the less.

Actually, I'm running the AMS Wilwood drag race brake kit and stiff springs to clear the wheels/tires. They work great for my autocross need.

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Mar 2, 2012, 06:21 AM

#167

nollij

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What are you all running to get your rear camber?

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Mar 2, 2012, 07:45 AM

#168

R/TErnie

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Are you asking what tire size and compound?
Hoosier R6 285

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Mar 2, 2012, 10:05 AM

#169

nollij

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No, are you using larger eccentric bolts or adjustable control arms to get your rear camber past -1.5 without changing the toe? Or are you using toe control arms?

Last edited by nollij; Mar 2, 2012 at 10:38 AM.

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Mar 2, 2012, 10:31 AM

#170

Evo8RA

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At one time I was running -2.4 rear camber and used Agency Power adjustable control arms to do it.

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Mar 2, 2012, 10:57 AM

#171

nollij

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Evo8RA

At one time I was running -2.4 rear camber and used Agency Power adjustable control arms to do it.

I am probably going to be aiming for around -2.0 rear camber with 0 toe but I am not sure whether the megan adjustable toe rod or the Agency Power adjustable control arms are the answer. The Agency Power adjustable control arms do not seem to be able to cure the toe in with higher camber.

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Mar 2, 2012, 12:59 PM

#172

R/TErnie

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I just used the whiteline eccentrics.

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Mar 2, 2012, 02:06 PM

#173

griceiv

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nollij

No, are you using larger eccentric bolts or adjustable control arms to get your rear camber past -1.5 without changing the toe? Or are you using toe control arms?

neither, just lower the car more and you'll have a ton of negative camber.

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Mar 5, 2012, 11:18 AM

#174

nollij

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Quote:

Originally Posted by griceiv

neither, just lower the car more and you'll have a ton of negative camber.

My current plan is to run near stock height in the rear and just lower the front a bit to increase the rake.

Also, I just bought the Megan Adjustable Tie Rod arms. I will probably end up having to play around with this for a while to get what I want out of it.

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Mar 5, 2012, 05:00 PM

#175

RJones

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My car isn't slammed, and I was able to get around 2.7 degrees of negative camber and zero toe in the rear. This was with about a 2 finger gap and 285/30/18 Hoosiers.

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Mar 5, 2012, 05:03 PM

#176

griceiv

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nollij

My current plan is to run near stock height in the rear and just lower the front a bit to increase the rake.

well maybe your plan is wrong?

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Mar 7, 2012, 09:52 AM

#177

MinusPrevious

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LOL^^^

Quote:

Originally Posted by nollij

I did the same years ago (noob move) by running only the front lowering springs & stock rears. Realized how scary the EVO was when cornering (Oversteer

Take our advice & run the proper springs & proper rake

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Mar 7, 2012, 07:29 PM

#178

nollij

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I am running Bilstein PSS9s. Not lowering springs. Not like I can't play with things around until I get the response I want.

Also, not running slicks. Just 285/30/18 Yoko Advan AD08s.

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Mar 7, 2012, 09:03 PM

#179

TougeGod7

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RJones

My car isn't slammed, and I was able to get around 2.7 degrees of negative camber and zero toe in the rear. This was with about a 2 finger gap and 285/30/18 Hoosiers.

+1 but I have about a 1 finger gap in the rear