V Dub Mike

iTrader: (1)

hey y'all....i'm new to evos and to the forrum, so please forgive any ignorance.....


i just got an 06 evo 9 with 21k on the clock with stock pads and rotors on it......i knew the previous owner and he confessed to me during the sale that he warped the rotors some how and that the car shutters when coming down from tripple digits, so i made the dealership resurface the rotors as a condition of the sale....

since then i've been reading the forums and discovered that resurfacing rotors is lame, but it was free and on the original stock stuff so whatever.....

the sheet on the work said that the back had 30 percent left and the fronts had 50 percent.....i can only assume they were talking about the rotors and not the pads, but that actually looks about right for both....

i've tracked it once with the Porsha club last Monday and it performed awesome and breaking was fine.....no fade even on a track that is historically kinda tough on brakes (portland international raceway)

do you think i could make it two more lapping days without getting new pads and rotors? (track day event leaders say that you need to have at least 50 percent left, not 30).....i have two track days back to back at my local track coming up soon.....

i wanted to get all new pads and rotors and maybe some superblue all at once, but it seems too early now (they still have some life in them) and i'm kinda broke from the trade in anyways......


think i'll make it if i take it easy?

i appreciate all opinions...

thanks!

Smike

iTrader: (8)

My rule of thumb is never track with under 30% of the pads life left. You will be surprised how quickly you can kill them.

Second rule, never track in a OE brake line, fluid, and pad Evo.

Third rule - track pads for track days. Street pads for all other.
-----
Now, this can be done pretty easily.

Technafit SS lines - $75 or so.
DOT4 fluid - $30ish
RotorPro Rotors (Slotted Only!) - $250 for all 4. (EDIT: to be clear - not needed to track, but if you need rotors - great for the price)

For pads I like to run a lower similar family pad in the rears and a track pad up front. For me, I like the Hawk HT10 pads up front and HPS or HP+ in the rear. Then I swap the fronts back to HPS for street driving.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

IMO: Never take chances with your brake system on a track. It only takes ONE brake failure to send you off track and ... (use your imagination).

SmikeEvo's suggestions are excellent. On my very fist track day, I ran Hawk HPS pads and all-season tires. It worked ... mostly because I didn't know how to drive all that well. HPS is a street pad, not a track pad, afterall. I have since gotten better, and as I have improved, I have needed to keep upgrading my pads (HPS to HP+, now PF-97), which ultimately cost me more money than if I had just gone to a track-only pad right from the beginning. I am also running SS brake lines, and RotorPro Rotors.

l8r)

V Dub Mike

iTrader: (1)

well thanks for the advice ya'll......i just don't really know how far you can make it on these stock pads.....i agree that you should never take chances with brakes and stuff....


so now that i'm going to swap out rotors and pads and fluid sooner than later, what kind of tools am i gonna ned.....i used to be into VWs and you allways needed all sorts of strange propitary crap....a simple socket set would never do....

somebody please make my day and say that a metric socket / box wrench set is all you need to do rotors and pads....

i'm gonna have a shop flush out the fluid and replace it with super blue.....

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Socket set, punch, soft hammer, neddle nose plyers, torque wrench.

2 bolts holding on the brake assemblies are tq'd to --
Front: 80 ft/lbs (+/- 7 ft/lbs)
Rear: 40 ft/lbs (+/- 4 ft/lbs)

V Dub Mike

iTrader: (1)

freakin rock dude ........thanks for the torque specs too......


so any recomendations for a good "comprimise" kit.....something i can street also....i'm not into changing out pads at the end of the race day.......i know it's easy, but i'm lazy.....


also, i'm not too into slotted / drilled rotors.......i've noticed that almost everything out there seems to be sloted and or drilled besided the actual OEM rotors which, i think, are kinda a rip (spendy)

anybody know of a good on-line retailer that would sell it all and cut a price break...pads, rotors and fluid......i don't want to do lines yet....

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

OT: You are in Port Orchard as in by Bremerton/Silverdale?

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Sorry no such thing for race/street pads. Lke Ludi said, just get a front set of track pads and a full set for all other uses. And I dont know of one dealer that can do all of these.

I like the HPS for street/AX useage. Lancershop.com has a combo deal of $160 for all four.

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/home.php?cat=95

But for more bite I would get the DS2500 pads. (I am going to the DS2500s for next seasons AXing)

Rotors - slotted doesnt hurt. Drilled is a no-no. MAPerformance.com has RotorPros for $250 for all four. They might be able to do blanks if you ask them.

http://www.maperformance.com/store/p...cat=604&page=1

For tracking the PF series are great as are the Hawk HT10 or 14 pads. Race pads all depend on what kind of feel you like. Really high initial bite, modulation, price...)

For fluid...I have been running Amsoil DOT4 this season with great results.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf4.aspx

You are right there for the rotor change...I would still do the SS lines. And you are going to be flushing the fluid anyway. Might as well. But thats my .02

V Dub Mike

iTrader: (1)

well, i hear you on the lines.....i know your right, but i'm trying to remain incogneto for the warante guys......i know it's up to them to prove some kind of abuse, but the less red-flags the better in my eyes....my car is totally stock now and i intend to keep it that way as it kicks more *** than anything i've driven so far, so thats good enough for me......so why void my warante when i'm allready happy...

i know if they want to, they can void your s*** for the tineyest of things....if they like you and think your cool, however, they'll let you get away with murder......or at least thats been my experience with the audi and vw warantee guys.....

but i digress....

250 for rotors!.....that sounds too good to be true!...everything i've found is 600 bucks at least......i've heard rotors don't make that much of a difference....how do those compare to the stoptechs or the girodisks (the two i've been looking at)

i definately want to run frodo 2500s......once again i know your right about track vs street pads but i'm lazy remember!....and i'm really not that serious.....i've tracked my stuff twice already with worn out dirty stock fluid and stock pads and rotors and that was fine.....still better than my GTI when i upgraded the hell out of the brakes.......i'm really just replacing my stuff due to wear and figure i might as well get as much longevity and performance that i can afford (500 - 1000 bucks for rotors and pads)......maybe save money with those rotors and spend the savings on good pads, fluid and lines

thanks for maxpeformance.com tip

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

The rotorpro rotors are the real deal. I'm on my second set. My first set have lasted just as long as the stock rotors ... although the rotorpros were subjected to a lot more track time. I am on my second set of front rotorpro rotors. The rears are still holding up.

I would be careful about mixing and matching brake pads front to rear. If your front pads are significantly more aggressive than the rear pads, you'll get a lot of front brake bias, which will put the front calipers/rotors/pads through more abuse than necessary. As an FYI, I ran PF-97 pads in the front and HP+ in the rear at my last track day ... I ended up not only boiling my fluid (motul rbf600), but the front calipers got so hot that the lower bolt ended up fusing to the caliper ... not fun at all. This is also why I stated that you need to consider what tires you are running. Based on my experience noted above, I am convinced that you can have too much brake pad.

As far as the SS brake lines and warranty go ... why not ask your dealer if installing SS brake lines will affect the warranty in any way?

l8r)

P.S.: you can also get rotorpro rotors directly from rotorpros at ... you guessed it ... rotorpros dot com

Smike

iTrader: (8)

I do not know this warranty word you speak of...

2pc rotors yes there is a difference in temp control. RotorPros are a great replacement. And I am serious - $250 for all 4.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k6...o/DSCF0612.jpg

Ludi is again correct. Thats why I like to stick to the same family, i.e. Hawk with Hawk. And I am running the lower aggressive pads. DTC60 or 70s would be overkill for my street tires. If I had slicks I would use the HT14s or maybe the DTC60s. The PFs are agressive.

One great piece to my brake setup has been my Hot Lap Motorsport Brake Duct Cooling Kit. Really has done wonders for keeping everything cool.

(Also worth noting - you have to brake correctly on the track. Quick stab and release. Dragging will overheat any system.)

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Since I'm looking at the service manual right now, to add to that:

Brake hose connection bolt --
Front: 20 ft/lbs (+/- 4 ft/lbs)
Rear: 12 ft/lbs (+/- 1 ft/lbs)

Bleeder screws--
Front and rear: 124 in/lbs (+/- 18 in/lbs)

l8r)

V Dub Mike

iTrader: (1)

yea i know.....most evo guys don't either....i'm lapping on a budget, so i can't afford to risk paying any unexpected huge costs, as that would just end it all and force me to get a regular daily and not race / lap for about a year......i got 500 bucks a month to put in my car.....period...including payment, gas and everything....i'm paying 240 a month on my payment right now

so wait......theres more!?......are those 2 piece rotors then for 250?....if so, thats crazy.....



yup.....hear that......



so i was gonna run at the track (once again) a cheap solution and get some "comprimise" tires like either the hancook RS2s or the Falken 615s.....mostly for thier longevity.......think the frodo 2500s would work well with those tires?

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, my 2pc rotor comment might be ambiguous...2pc rotors do make a difference. BUT you will not find them for $250 for all four...sorry.

Tires - one, well ok two words...Dunlop Z1s. 615s are old news. The Z1s have been nothing but awesome! Took a fellow Evo owner out at Grattan last time I was there and he though I had slicks on the car after 20 mins. Once we got off I pointed out that I was on street tires - the Z1s.

V Dub Mike

iTrader: (1)

it's all good.....i didn't think i could get 2 pieces for two-fiddy but i didn't think i could get anything for two-fiddy so what the hell, figured i'd ask.....

in the mean time....i know it's off topic, but it relates to what pads i choose in the end......the Direzza Sport Z1s.....i read that one of thier better traits was that they heat up real quick......are those more for auto-x than a wide open track, or no?