rawkus

iTrader: (16)

Hello All,
First things first, a little background, I have a 2001 Evo VII that I use for Redline Time Attack Street Class. The car is only used for this purpose, I don't really care about street manners.

Ignoring the rest of my setup (pretty mild so far) I have come to a crossroads on what to do with my sway bars. Long story short, I am running Cusco Sway Bars, 25mm Front (123% stiffer than stock) and 23mm Rear (103%, 115%, 125% stiffer) set to 115%

I experience steady, but strong mid corner understeer with on throttle oversteer coming out of tight and mid speed turns. Coming out of higher speed turns, mild understeer or neutral 4 wheel slides.

I have talked with the folks at Muellerized about getting a more dedicated track setup and they recommend I switch back to a OEM front bar with their 25mm rear or stick with the Cusco Front and go to a 27mm rear such as Agency Power. The OEM Front and their Rear being most recommended. I really respect their opinion but might have the opportunity to directly trade my Cusco Rear for an Agency Power Rear.

Soo... long story short, on street tires (255/40 17 Nitto NT05s are what I use for my class) Would you guys be cheap and go with the Agency Power Trade or would you hunt down an OEM front bar and Muellerized rear? Thanks a lot.

Dan

chrisw

iTrader: (2)

it's been my experience wth the evo in autocrossing that it responds better to increasing the spring rates over increasing to a stiffer swaybar.

With my current setup, I am at the point where I want to remove the rear bar entirely as I have too much oversteer after upgrading my rear diff to a TRE max lock diff. I have already drilled my stock swaybar to increase the stiffness which helped, but it wasn't the complete solution.

To some degree, it sounds like you have similar issues.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

What are your spring rates?

Its my experience that having both front and rear sways (stiffer bias in the rear) was great on track and AX. But that really depends on rates used in the springs.

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

spring rates, alignment settings, etc.

gotta look at the complete picture.

- Andrew

rawkus

iTrader: (16)

I didn't post spring rates because they won't be staying this way for long, but...

Cusco Zero 2R Coilover with 7k Front and 5k Rear Springs. I plan on increasing spring rates on these coilovers or switching to a whole new system depending on the money I have available. I might even stick with 7k Front and do just 8k Rear, not yet sure.

Alignment is zero toe front and rear. Generally, 3.75 degrees front camber, 1.5 rear. I do have increased caster, but I'm not sure of the spec.

I'm not looking to fine tune what I currently have, I just want opinions and advice of going with a larger set or smaller set of bars in general. But I greatly appreciate all the help so far. Thanks a lot.

Dan

rawkus

iTrader: (16)

Which swaybar did you drill? Front or Rear? If rear, do you mean, decrease the stiffness?

BTW, Not to be a Cusco fan boy (as I'm not really a fan so far) but they do offer a smaller rear bar used in rally setups. I believe it is an 18mm adjustable. Might be of some service.

Dan

chrisw

iTrader: (2)

I drilled the front, there is a thread on this in the how-to section.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

To talk about sways, you have to factor in the rates.

Ya, 7f and 5r is not ideal - and helps explain the understeer you have now. I really suggest getting the spring rate sorted out first. Then re-check your sways. You might find that after the rates are better set the car is much better to drive.

rawkus

iTrader: (16)

Thanks!

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

+1. Get the spring rates sorted first.

- andrew

xX v0oDo0 Xx

iTrader: (1)

If you are only looking for a Time Attack setup that will rock, at least fix your springrates... I am on Works Ohlins DFV coilovers, 10k F/12k R springs. I am also using Works swaybar, I have been very satisfied with this purchase. My setup is driven daily (comfortable), 0 problems, perfect neutral handling. I would consider selling your current setup in favor of Robispec KWs or something of the like. I would have gone this route myself, but the price I got on these Ohlins was killer. Also, for reference, I believe Vishnu was springing their Ohlins around 14k F/16k R. The springrates are clearly what your setup is missing, but depending on your budget I would consider one of these options: Contact GTWORX get some springs for your Cuscos / Private sell Cuscos as an assembled unit for money towards a new coilover / Ride on stock struts and wait around til you can afford something nice.

P.S. I really like Swift springs. You might want to consider taking off that front sway in favor of the stocker, most people don't replace it.

rawkus

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the input.

I am well aware of the fact I need to change spring rates and possibly the entire coilover system and I am already working on this.

I am just interested in what would "Generally" be the best sway bar solution. And from the sounds of it, OEM Front with a 25mm Rear is the best bet.

I purchased the car with this existing suspension setup and due to budget, I had to work with it and I think I did alright considering what I had. Now this winter I plan to redo a lot, just depends on what I can afford.

Dan

I will probably go with Hypercoil springs as they are local to me, perhaps Swift depending on cost.

xX v0oDo0 Xx

iTrader: (1)

Hey Dan, glad to hear we could help...

If you think about it, you can't really lose upgrading your current setup... OEM front bar for sure, leave your rear bar for now... If you only get the springs, you can still sell the entire setup if you don't like the way it turns out... To me, that would be the most obvious choice, as this may entirely transform your handling... Also, I would consider just getting the Swifts because you're maybe looking at a difference of 100 for the set, but the difference is ride quality... As a race car, I know you are not as concerned with ride quality but if you decide to swap them out, you'll have the correct spring for whichever coilover you choose. Let me know if I can help you out...

SS RX7 r2

iTrader: (1)

Do you have AYC? The reason for the Japanese higher rate in the front is due to the AYCs added oversteer.

I would swap the springs front to back, or keep the 7s up front and use 9k in back.

Also use the stock bar in front, and go with a 23-27mm rear bar.

Rick

rawkus

iTrader: (16)

I do in fact have AYC and it does contribute to oversteer, but I can still get into a quite a lot of understeer.

I cannot swap springs as the front is inverted monotube thus requiring a larger/wider spring.

I need to find a stock bar then.

Dan