Swift Springs long term review.
Oct 21, 2010, 07:30 PM
#32
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Great write-up!
I've been running Swift Spec-R's on Bilstein HD's for about a year and a half now. I have been extremely pleased with them. They are great on the street, fine for AutoX and did great on a few track days. I think that I have at least another season (probably two or three) before I outgrow this setup. I think many people jump into coilover setups, when a Bilstein/Swift combo may suit their needs.
I've been running Swift Spec-R's on Bilstein HD's for about a year and a half now. I have been extremely pleased with them. They are great on the street, fine for AutoX and did great on a few track days. I think that I have at least another season (probably two or three) before I outgrow this setup. I think many people jump into coilover setups, when a Bilstein/Swift combo may suit their needs.
Oct 27, 2010, 09:16 PM
#33
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Great write-up!
I've been running Swift Spec-R's on Bilstein HD's for about a year and a half now. I have been extremely pleased with them. They are great on the street, fine for AutoX and did great on a few track days. I think that I have at least another season (probably two or three) before I outgrow this setup. I think many people jump into coilover setups, when a Bilstein/Swift combo may suit their needs.
I've been running Swift Spec-R's on Bilstein HD's for about a year and a half now. I have been extremely pleased with them. They are great on the street, fine for AutoX and did great on a few track days. I think that I have at least another season (probably two or three) before I outgrow this setup. I think many people jump into coilover setups, when a Bilstein/Swift combo may suit their needs.
Oct 29, 2010, 07:12 AM
#35
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Wondering the same thing.
I'm not driving the evo competitively or even putting it on the track till I own it. Is it really worththe extra money to revalve if I'm daily and some weekend jaunts?
I drove a rear biased Honda for a long time and do not want to deal with low speed oscillation in this car.
I believe that at the limits, one with some suspension knowledge could tell the difference but if I'm not seeing the limit, can I just get away with putting on some GTWorx, align it and call it a day?
I'm not driving the evo competitively or even putting it on the track till I own it. Is it really worththe extra money to revalve if I'm daily and some weekend jaunts?
I drove a rear biased Honda for a long time and do not want to deal with low speed oscillation in this car.
I believe that at the limits, one with some suspension knowledge could tell the difference but if I'm not seeing the limit, can I just get away with putting on some GTWorx, align it and call it a day?
Oct 29, 2010, 07:31 AM
#36
Revalving is not necessary....I would do it if I'm tracking/autoxing the car a bunch OR if my bilsteins were getting old and crusty. The standad Bilstein valving is very good, especially for the street. This goes for our GTWORX springs and Swifts for that matter. It makes more of a difference for Spec R's, but still not a requirement IMO.
- Andrew
- Andrew
Oct 29, 2010, 07:48 AM
#37
^ Beat me to it.
If racing or competitive events (SCCA/NASA) -- I would (and I did). Matching for rates makes it a total package. Reb/comp fine tuned for the rates. Gets the most out if it. Which you need from every part when at that level.
Daily driver - I would not revalve until the struts needed rebuilding after a few seasons or if you have a well used. Easier to send them to Bilstein for a month and then install as fresh parts.
Swifts and GTWorx where developed to work on the OE struts -- out of the box (no mods to struts) they work very well.
If racing or competitive events (SCCA/NASA) -- I would (and I did). Matching for rates makes it a total package. Reb/comp fine tuned for the rates. Gets the most out if it. Which you need from every part when at that level.
Daily driver - I would not revalve until the struts needed rebuilding after a few seasons or if you have a well used. Easier to send them to Bilstein for a month and then install as fresh parts.
Swifts and GTWorx where developed to work on the OE struts -- out of the box (no mods to struts) they work very well.
Nov 1, 2010, 04:33 AM
#39
Do not cut the coils on any spring.
There is a reason they are -1.4 in lower. That is just about the maximum you can go before you get into the struts constraints. Which is one big reason why the Tein S are terrible. They ride on the bump stops. Remember, struts do not care where they stroke from. The DO care about bottoming out.
There is a reason they are -1.4 in lower. That is just about the maximum you can go before you get into the struts constraints. Which is one big reason why the Tein S are terrible. They ride on the bump stops. Remember, struts do not care where they stroke from. The DO care about bottoming out.
Nov 1, 2010, 09:32 AM
#41
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do not cut the coils on any spring.
There is a reason they are -1.4 in lower. That is just about the maximum you can go before you get into the struts constraints. Which is one big reason why the tein s are terrible. They ride on the bump stops. Remember, struts do not care where they stroke from. The do care about bottoming out.
There is a reason they are -1.4 in lower. That is just about the maximum you can go before you get into the struts constraints. Which is one big reason why the tein s are terrible. They ride on the bump stops. Remember, struts do not care where they stroke from. The do care about bottoming out.
very good advice!! Never cut springs
Nov 5, 2010, 10:41 AM
#42
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Thanks Woodstock for the review. I've yet to install my Spec Rs cause I'm debating on switching out the KYBs for Bilsteins. Because of your review I may run them on the KYBs and switch to Bilstein HDs when the KYBs go.
By the way what rotors are you running?
By the way what rotors are you running?
Nov 5, 2010, 03:13 PM
#43
^ Beat me to it.
If racing or competitive events (SCCA/NASA) -- I would (and I did). Matching for rates makes it a total package. Reb/comp fine tuned for the rates. Gets the most out if it. Which you need from every part when at that level.
Daily driver - I would not revalve until the struts needed rebuilding after a few seasons or if you have a well used. Easier to send them to Bilstein for a month and then install as fresh parts.
Swifts and GTWorx where developed to work on the OE struts -- out of the box (no mods to struts) they work very well.
If racing or competitive events (SCCA/NASA) -- I would (and I did). Matching for rates makes it a total package. Reb/comp fine tuned for the rates. Gets the most out if it. Which you need from every part when at that level.
Daily driver - I would not revalve until the struts needed rebuilding after a few seasons or if you have a well used. Easier to send them to Bilstein for a month and then install as fresh parts.
Swifts and GTWorx where developed to work on the OE struts -- out of the box (no mods to struts) they work very well.
Thanks!
Nov 5, 2010, 03:44 PM
#44
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I dropped mine off here:
Thyssen Krupp Bilstein-America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA 92064-7147
(858) 386-5900
And best of all, turn around time was 8 days from the day i dropped it off to the day it arrived onto my porch!
Thyssen Krupp Bilstein-America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA 92064-7147
(858) 386-5900
And best of all, turn around time was 8 days from the day i dropped it off to the day it arrived onto my porch!
Nov 5, 2010, 03:46 PM
#45
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http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/s...e/service.html
Dont forget to fill out the Repair Order instructions form and enclose it with your struts/shocks. My front struts and rear shocks were rebuilt and revalved to match swift spec r final spring rates.
Dont forget to fill out the Repair Order instructions form and enclose it with your struts/shocks. My front struts and rear shocks were rebuilt and revalved to match swift spec r final spring rates.