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First step is to get the factory wheels/tires back on and take it somewhere that I can get a lip-roll done without metal distortion on the outside. After that I'll be putting my new pads on, cleaning up my calipers and installing the new wheels for plenty of photos.
So - Today I did a "minusprevious" and took off my suspension to move the wheel all the way up and see if & how much contact I have.
From the best I can measure, I think if my suspension compresses more than about 1.5" from rest position it will rub. You can see in the pictures where it started to barely kiss the tire and the relative position of the tire there.
So - Today I did a "minusprevious" and took off my suspension to move the wheel all the way up and see if & how much contact I have.
From the best I can measure, I think if my suspension compresses more than about 1.5" from rest position it will rub. You can see in the pictures where it started to barely kiss the tire and the relative position of the tire there.
Nice job
Now you can see what youre up against. Wonder what your rear camber is set at? We can always adjust in -1.8 to help out, but a rear roll is definitely needed
The rear bumper bolt location may need some trimming as well
So- after reading many many different posts about fender rolling on various forums, and speaking with several places who do the process - I decided to cut the lips rather than roll.
The reason? - Either way I face the possibility of corrosion issues here. I wanted to be able to see behind the lips and be able to monitor it.
Here you can see I put a piece of pinstriping on the edge to give me a line.
I cut it using a cutoff wheel, and then cleaned the cut up with a die-grinder and a 2 inch pad which has 80 grit. The result was so smooth that it looked factory, and was so soft to the touch you would never cut yourself.
Now- my concerns:
1- strength. I don't really think the panel lost much strength. I've seen this done before where the panels became so weak that they physically are floppy. This isn't the case. I measured the flat surface of this lip at about 17mm. I cut mine down to about 9.5mm. (at the weakest area). You can put some force on the panel and it doesn't wiggle or bend.
2- corrosion. When I cut this metal the underneath looked brand new. There was no rust anywhere. I immediately cleaned the area with a prep-sol, wiped it with alchohol and put seveal coats of POR15 on. (I didn't take pictures yet, I have been re-coating it every 3 or 4 hours) I will probably repaint this when I paint my new JDM rear (I have my own paint booth so this is not a problem)
3- clearance. I picked the car back up on the hoist and dropped it down with the suspension missing. It clears just fine. In fact, I have almost a 7mm of clearance were before at that exact height it started to rub. I continued to push the wheel up and the treads of the tire were so close the the plastic by the rear wheel well that the tire was basically buried into the opening. I stopped here - I didn't want to tip the car over on the hoist. No point of going further, I will have no rubbing issues. The bumper bolt was not touching either. I think thats because I went with 235/45's.
I'm starting to consider whether I should cut the fender lip instead of leaving it rolled now for fear of corrosion, since I'm in QC and drive the car year-round..
can i fit volk RE30 club sports 18x9.5 +22 wrapped with 255/35/18 ? , what front and rear fender work if needed please
The +22 combined w/the 9.5" wheel will require some significant rear fender work. Generally speaking, a rear roll, rear fender pull & a bumper bolt relocation would be needed to fully clear
The +22 combined w/the 9.5" wheel will require some significant rear fender work. Generally speaking, a rear roll, rear fender pull & a bumper bolt relocation would be needed to fully clear
If you have other questions, let us know
fender pull only for the edges right ?
what about the front fenders ? should be +10mm or oem fenders will be cleared
last question, any thread on the bumper bolt relocation ?
fender pull only for the edges right ?
what about the front fenders ? should be +10mm or oem fenders will be cleared
last question, any thread on the bumper bolt relocation ?
The rear fender pull is needed on the rear side of rear wheel well (see image below)
The fronts are more forgiving & should be OK, but depends on ride height. If youre too low, expect alot of liner rub. Expect some liner rub at lock positions. You may have to trim some of the liner!
Yeah, An 18x9.5 +20 is a very difficult wheel to fit a stock body EvO rear. There are some that run this offset (+15 to +20) but its really considered a "show" set-up & prone to rear rub
Is there any chance they can be sold for a better fitting 9.5" wheel (i.e. 18x9.5 +30 to +35) ?
If you cant sell them,let me know & will give you the basics on what is needed (need your tire size!)
Joe
let's say am gonna pull the rear fender , relocate the bumper bolt and wider front fenders ? can i run this setup not for show ??? i mean can i race in the car using this setup 18x9.5 +20
Aug 5, 2017, 01:21 PM
