sanjaya1

Well, I am getting my brake pads and fluid replaced by RRE in over a week. They said that they don't resurface the rotors. I for some reason thought that it was necessary to resurface the rotors when you put new pads. Is that a wrong assumption? Is it only necessary is the is some issue with the rotors? I would appreciate some info from someone who knows about he subject or has changed the pads on their EVO recently. Thanks

Bogie

iTrader: (11)

I don't resurface my rotors unless they are seriously, seriously grooved/etched/worn (by that time it may be time to replace them); however, I do hand sand the rotors with 60 or 100 grit sand paper--remove old pad impurity.

BPAuto

iTrader: (10)

It's not necessary to resurface rotors when you replace pads. Definitely inspect the rotors prior to installing the pads just to get an idea of the wear and any damage that may have occurred to the rotor. With a low amount of miles, I should think all will be well with yours.

tagrp

Rotors should always be scuffed either with sandpaper or a drill/die grinder mounted scuffing tool. The glazed surface of the rotors will cause the new pads to overheat and they wont bed properly which could in turn lead to rotor warpage... Also be sure to follow the pad bedding intsructions for the pads you purchase.

Maddmatt

If you change pad brand, I would highly recommend you get the rotors turned. Every brake pad deposits a layer material on the rotor. There's no garuntee that the new brand pad material is compatible with the old brand material. They could interefere with one another and not allow the new pads to bite uniformily on the rotor. The result is a "warped" feeling (but they are not really warped).

BigBoogieman

Matt, what do you think of sanding them as mentioned above, instead of getting them turned? I'm planning on switching from stock pads to Bobcat's. Obviously I don't want the juddering to continue when I replace the pads, but I don't want to get the rotors turned unless I really have to. Wouldn't sanding remove the deposits?

lowkey

iTrader: (5)

I read the article referred to by Carbotech (http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm).
It sounds like you could use “Garnet Paper” but not sandpaper to clean the rotors. Does anyone know where you get this stuff?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (185)

For $10 a rotor, why not just get them resurfaced and know its was done correctly?

Bogie

iTrader: (11)

With due respect, those of us who don't turn/resurface rotors think we're doing it the "correct" way. Among other reasons, why remove a layer of the rotor and shorten it's life when removing the contaminants is all you want to do. I have been to many track events where most, if not all participants don't resurface. It's sort of the reason why I don't like cross-drilled rotors. By drilling holes in the rotor you stress the rotor, plus you're removing braking area, I consider it counter-intuitive, sorry for going ot.

superz

iTrader: (7)

sanding a rotor will NOT clear up all the residue left from the previous pad. A cleaning disc on a grinder will remove that material. I personally machine my rotors with every pad change. This leaves the best surface for a set of new pads. I remove just enough material so as to remove the previous surface. Its usually about 3-4 hundreths of an inch, less than a creditcard thickness. After 2 or 3 sets of pads you should be getting new rotors anyway. Saving the rotor life is insane when you own a 30k car with a $3000 Brembo brake system.

sanjaya1

Well, I am going to Roadraceengineering next Monday to get my brake pads installed, and they said that they don't resurface the rotors. Am I wrong in assuming they do something to insure that there wont be any problems with new pads?

Maddmatt

Sorry, been real busy for a while.

If you do, use some *very* aggressive sand paper (like 60 grit).

Bogie

iTrader: (11)

I guess the only way to guarantee that is to do it yourself If you don't mind my asking, why don't you do it yourself?

sanjaya1

Mainly because I don't have the time, expertise, and tools. I am an engineer, so I am sure I could figure it out if I looked it up in a good manual. Also, I am sure I could put together or borrow the tools. But I don't have the time to do it. I definitely don't have the time to remove the rotors and take them to a local shop that has a lathe to turn them. As it is, I barely have time to do my own oil changes. I really wouldn't have minded taking it the dealer since they are close to my work and provided a shuttle service. But what they quoted was outrageous. I don't mind getting ripped off a little for convinience, but what they quoted was highway robbery. The local shop I used to take my previous cars used to turn my rotors prior to replacing the pads. I just don't know if I trust them with the EVO. I am just a little surprised that turning the rotors is not standard for all shops. RRE comes highly recommended on this site, but I was a little surprised to hear they don't turn rotors. I don't care as long as there is no problems afterwards.

EvoNick

FWIW, here's my take on rotor re-surfacing, based purely on what I've read at various brake pad manufacturer sites, racing sites, and my own experience.

I've not turned my rotors in 7K miles of driving, of which prob 1000 miles have been spent on the track. The brakes are used very aggressively on the track, very mildly on the street. I switch between stock pads and Hawk Blues.

In my experience, I've:

1. Switched between stock pads and Hawk Blues w/o rotor turning/sanding

2. Put very used Blues on new(ish) rotors w/o rotor turning/sanding

3. Put new Blues on used rotors w/o rotor turning/sanding

But, I always bed in new pads as per Hawk's recommendations. That said, I've not had a problem yet with uneven pad deposits swowing up as judder, or "warped" rotors.

YMMV