fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

This is a quick how to on things I learned from removing the front subframe in order to install the WhiteLine Roll Center Correction Kit, Whiteline Steering Rack bushing Kit, and an H&R front adjustable sway bar (FSB).

There are some other threads on this, and many that discuss how much of a PITA removing the front subframe is, but I found it to be very straight forward. In fact I now believe changing the FSB is one of if not the very first modification for the EVO. I was also very impressed with the Roll Center Correction Kit. Surprising what a little geometry can do.

The only two delicate parts of that job are actually the removal of the steering column and the removal of the PS In and Out lines from the steering rack. Once you have accepted the removal of the lines they are very basic, since its a self bleeding system when you put it back together.

The first step is to get the PS lines removed so they are loose. I chose to remove them at the top so I would be able to keep as much fluid in them via gravity as possible. So first up is the connection on top of the pump. Simple stuff, just remove and be careful to keep track of the washer for reinstall. You can put a small rubber glove around it and zip tie if you want, though I didn't need to.


Now remove the return line. You can see the nipple of where the hose was in this shot. I stuffed an old sparkplug (backwards) into that line to keep it from spilling fluid. Both lines can rest upright in the engine bay as you pull down the subframe later. They will just thread out.


The next step is to remove the bolt that ties the steering rack to the steering column. Under the dash behind the brake pedal you will find a plastic cover to unsnap that will reveal essentially the following image. The shaft is splined and you can mark it with whiteout or white crayon. My markings didn't do much, since I didn't move the steering wheel and didn't move the rack, everything went back exactly how it came apart. That red painted bolt gets removed and that will allow the rack (attached to the subframe) to drop out of the car. If you don't remove this, then the entire subframe will be dangling from this point later.


Now remove the caliper, rotor and dust shield to prep for the under car work. Make sure you have plenty of safety support under the car. I always use 3 layers. Jacks, jack stands, and now my trusty square BBSs. You will use pitman tool to remove the steering rod ball joint from the knuckle. One side went off easy for me, just like it should, the other side broke two pitman tools. I usually end up doing things the hard way anyway, so it was no surprise.


For the side that gave me issues, I simply removed the knuckle from the car. A pain, because I had to put the wheels back on to break the axle nut. blah blah blah, but eventually I had the knuckle with the ball joints attached outside on the drive and took a sledge hammer to it. It popped out across the driveway and poked a hole in the trashcan. Obviously that ball joint is mangled, but it came out easy that way. Hopefully you don't need to resort to that. The pitman tool is available at any autoparts for 10 bucks.

You will also need to remove the frame support bars, down pipe, and front support that connects the trans mount on the front to the subframe to make room for the subframe to drop down. I first decided to remove the LCA, the large lower aluminum component in which the ball joints need to be pressed out and back in. The ball joint has a bolt that keeps it bound to the knuckle. Examine carefully how that bolt comes out, because you will need to make sure the ball joint is oriented with the cut out on the shaft so the bolt can slide passed it. Otherwise you will strip the bolt on re assembly. I don't have any decent pics of the LCA removal, because it went very easily. The LCA ball joint just popped out after the bolt was removed. The other two long bolts also came out easy with enough leverage. There is good access too. The only trick is depending on your oil filter you may have to remove it to be able to slide the passenger side front LCA bolt out. I had this issue, and just unscrewed the oil filter enough let it gurgle out some oil, got the bolt out and screwed the filter back on quickly. Not much came out if you leave the valve cover oil cap on. Just a rubber glove and a pan and it was only a 1 minute delay.

The LCAs slid out easily. I have a press, but I opted to take them to a local shop to have the old ***** pressed out and the new ones pressed in. One of the reasons I did this, is because there was an odd lip on the LCA I wasn't expecting. I wanted a shop to do this so I wouldn't risk damaging the LCAs. 20 bucks later they were pressed in. There are a few threads about doing this without a press at home, but schedule extra time for that. I have a press and decided not to do it myself. My press kind of sucks compared to a shop press.

Here you can see a close up pic of the cover of the stock ball joint. You can 'feel' with a screwdriver for a gap in the ring, and that is where you can pry up on the cover. It has metal in it and will pry up to reveal the snap ring.


I used a snap ring removal tool from HF to get the ring off. Pretty easy with the tool, but a pain without. Those rings are strong.
Here is a blurry one with the screwdriver to demonstrate.


Here they are back from the shop with the new WL ***** pressed in.


The stock setup has a small aluminum lip that covers the end of the ball. I suspect its pressed on the aluminum as its assembled at the factory. That lip had to come off to facilitate the switch over. I don't believe its important, but you can see the scarring here.


Now back to the underside. You now need to remove the rear trans mount bolt. its difficult to get to, but not impossible. Just jam your hands under and behind the intake and you will feel both ends. I believe they are 14mm. There is enough space to get a wrench and socket on either side, but it may require some patience if you have never done it before.

Now you can begin loosening the 6 bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis. I supported the subframe with a 2x4 and a jack. This worked surprisingly well.


Once the subframe lowers you can start to wiggle it to confirm its in fact balancing on the jack and not hung up. From there I lowered it to the ground and drug it off of the jack and out into the open. I then disassembled it to install the steering rack bushing kit.


Here is a shot with everything taken off.


The instructions on the steering rack kit indicate to use 2 washers under each bolt on the passenger side, but doing so in my case didn't allow the bushings to be clamped. This may be an issue just with my car for whatever reason, or something Evo MR specific or whatever, but the following video shows my issue. I simply installed it with only one washer as directed by WL support. Here is a shot of the washers installed correctly, but I had to remove one washer.


Except for the fitment the steering rack kit is very simple. At this point its easy to install the FSB and clean up the whole unit. Everything went back in the opposite order. Its best to have a second person when jacking the subframe back into position. One in the car guiding the steering rod back into the linkage under the dash, and the other slowly jacking the unit up. Also, you want to make sure you mark the steering rods, (I marked the nuts and shaft with a line and didn't move the nuts) so that you can unscrew the stock units and screw on the new ones without changing the alignment too much. You will likely need an alignment either way because of all the geometry changes.

Here you can see the spark plug plug. When you re assemble you can top off the fluid, jack up the front, run the car and rotate the steering from full left to full right. This will bleed the system of air that has been trapped.

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

place holder I didn't need....

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Nice job there for sure. You have tackled a difficult install

Joe

evoone

iTrader: (8)

...project i'll need to tackle this year for posting.