Front subframe bolt spinning how to fix it??
Jan 2, 2015, 04:29 PM
#2
the bolt that points down? its a common issue on nearly every evo. as long as the threads are ok and a nut can thread on smoothly it will tighten up when you put the subframe back on.
otherwise stick a thin flat head screw driver into the tiny hole on the corner of the bolt housing. then tighten the nut. its a PITA but it works. there is no fix as the spot weld inside the frame broke. again. all of us deal with it.
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Jan 3, 2015, 01:40 AM
#9
I would clean up the threads with a thread file and then try again with a impact gun, the higher initial torque should help. I've dealt with that bolt over 10 times on my car and I always use my impact gun to put it up. You may just have to jog the trigger a couple times to take advantage of the initial torque. If that doesn't work then you will have to cut and reweld, but I would use that as a last resort.
Jan 27, 2015, 02:42 PM
#10
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Shoving a proper sized flat blade worked for me. The bolt on mine was so loose you can completely rotate it with only your fingers. I was able to remove the nut easily after soaking with penetrating fluid overnight, then heated it with a MAP gas torch for a few minutes. DO NOT USE an impact gun on it! That was my fatal mistake which rounded the bolt's corners in the first place. These bolts are not tack welded in to place and weren't designed to be. They are supposed to be loose in the cage as to allow easier manipulation of the sub frame for removal and re-installation. If they were both welded in place, it'd be a pain in the @$$ for R & R of the sub frame if the bolts were totally fixed in place but out of tolerance by just a mm or two. / | or / \ or \ / vs. being | | and movable.
My drivers's side came out with zero issues. The bolt was wiggling around and had perfect corners since I used a wrench instead of my 650 ft/lb impact.
I learned this well after i had already drilled out the spot welds and started peeling back sheet metal to gain welding access to the bolt head.
Last edited by rysbrnr; Jan 27, 2015 at 03:35 PM.
Jan 27, 2015, 03:27 PM
#14
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Though it's not an animated Pro-E 3D illustration this drawing helps to give you an idea of what we're dealing with inside that little box with a stud protruding.
I make no claims that this will work for everyone. It worked for me and I had zero grabbing corners of the bolt left. This method probably won't help those with stripped threads, broken bolt shanks, bent bolts, etc.
This is for those, like me who rounded off their corners with an impact gun and still have decent threads on the bolt. Pre-soak with penetrating oil, and heat up the nut to help loosen it up. Use your regular wrench and turn carefully to allow the corners to grab like they should, or wedge a screwdriver in there if needed.
My driver's side sub frame nut came out perfectly with no issues using (PB Blaster/Kroil/Liquid Wrench), a torch and my trusty Craftsman 1/2" drive socket wrench.
Before re-installation, thoroughly clean up the threads (rust, damage, etc.) enough that the nut can easily spin up to the top with little resistance. Torque to 123 ft/lbs , wedge screwdriver in if needed. I'd probably slop some anti-seize on the bolt to prevent this from happening again, especially if you're in climate like we get here in Iowa.
Good Luck
I make no claims that this will work for everyone. It worked for me and I had zero grabbing corners of the bolt left. This method probably won't help those with stripped threads, broken bolt shanks, bent bolts, etc.
This is for those, like me who rounded off their corners with an impact gun and still have decent threads on the bolt. Pre-soak with penetrating oil, and heat up the nut to help loosen it up. Use your regular wrench and turn carefully to allow the corners to grab like they should, or wedge a screwdriver in there if needed.
My driver's side sub frame nut came out perfectly with no issues using (PB Blaster/Kroil/Liquid Wrench), a torch and my trusty Craftsman 1/2" drive socket wrench.
Before re-installation, thoroughly clean up the threads (rust, damage, etc.) enough that the nut can easily spin up to the top with little resistance. Torque to 123 ft/lbs , wedge screwdriver in if needed. I'd probably slop some anti-seize on the bolt to prevent this from happening again, especially if you're in climate like we get here in Iowa.
Good Luck
