Ohlins Road Track coilover spring specifications
#6
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by LCS
Why I would want a stiffer spring in the rear?
In fact I am thinking on a stiffer spring in the front.
In fact I am thinking on a stiffer spring in the front.
#7
Even with Ohlins setup there is still much nose dive on braking, too.
I think the only way to put the inner tires back on the track is by using stiffer springs. It is clear to me a 10kgf spring is too soft for road racing.
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#8
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by LCS
The car is lifting both inner wheels during corners. The inner front tire temperatures are always higher than the outer one so it must be slipping during accelerations out of corners.
Even with Ohlins setup there is still much nose dive on braking, too.
I think the only way to put the inner tires back on the track is by using stiffer springs. It is clear to me a 10kgf spring is too soft for road racing.
Even with Ohlins setup there is still much nose dive on braking, too.
I think the only way to put the inner tires back on the track is by using stiffer springs. It is clear to me a 10kgf spring is too soft for road racing.
#9
You still need to keep the the rear springs about 20-30% stiffer than the fronts. My car is 9k fromt 11k rear and is very very well balanced with stock swaybars. All of these shots I'm either on the brakes or on maintenance throttle so the front is a touch lower than the rear.
Right now the car is well balanced but at the limit it understeers a bit.
I know that a stiffer spring on the rear will help transfer some weight to the inner front wheel.
One thing I have no idea of is the impact of a bigger rear wing on the balance of the suspension.
Last edited by LCS; Jun 12, 2016 at 12:52 PM.
#10
Evolved Member
Look at where the rear strut attaches at the control arm compared to the front. The front is all the way out near the ball joint where the rear is in board almost half way up the lower control arm. Which means the amount of spring force applied in the rear at the tire is actually less than what the spring is rated for.
Here is a very quick read.
http://www.worksevo.com/Spring_Rates_1.pdf
Basic rule of thumb is higher rates in the rear.
Here is a very quick read.
http://www.worksevo.com/Spring_Rates_1.pdf
Basic rule of thumb is higher rates in the rear.
#11
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
Yes, as others have stated you want the stiffer springs on the rear given the suspension geometry. I have Ohlins on my car and my current spring rates are 650# F and 800# R which is considerably stiffer than the rates they came with.
If you have considerable nose dive currently with the 10k on the front Id recommend going stiffer to maybe a 12k but be sure to up your rear rates accordingly.
Also, how the f did you get your weight distribution to be 52/48 assuming you actually means front to rear? I dont see that happening unless you went to extreme lengths relocating a ton of stuff to your trunk as well as using ballast in the rear...
If you have considerable nose dive currently with the 10k on the front Id recommend going stiffer to maybe a 12k but be sure to up your rear rates accordingly.
Also, how the f did you get your weight distribution to be 52/48 assuming you actually means front to rear? I dont see that happening unless you went to extreme lengths relocating a ton of stuff to your trunk as well as using ballast in the rear...
#12
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
With that weight distribution, he'll need even stiffer rear springs. The 20-30% rull assumes the typical 60f/40r evo weight distribution. He has managed to move a lot of weight to rear of the car.
#13
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
Yes, agreed. However I'm skeptical on that figure being accurate and think he may be talking side to side with driver in the car.
Ill have to look at my sheet from when I had my car on scales a couple years back but I recall the front being around 8 and change per tire and the rear in the 6 range. But anyway given a typical 60/40 distribution on say a 3000# which car seems easily on a track car non pig like SSL like my girl yields 1800 front vs 1200 rear which means you'd need to move ~250# to the rear to get to 52/48.
Now, maybe Im missing something but that seems like a tall order unless you are shedding weight and then adding ballast to the rear.
Ill have to look at my sheet from when I had my car on scales a couple years back but I recall the front being around 8 and change per tire and the rear in the 6 range. But anyway given a typical 60/40 distribution on say a 3000# which car seems easily on a track car non pig like SSL like my girl yields 1800 front vs 1200 rear which means you'd need to move ~250# to the rear to get to 52/48.
Now, maybe Im missing something but that seems like a tall order unless you are shedding weight and then adding ballast to the rear.
#14
Yes, as others have stated you want the stiffer springs on the rear given the suspension geometry. I have Ohlins on my car and my current spring rates are 650# F and 800# R which is considerably stiffer than the rates they came with.
If you have considerable nose dive currently with the 10k on the front Id recommend going stiffer to maybe a 12k but be sure to up your rear rates accordingly.
Also, how the f did you get your weight distribution to be 52/48 assuming you actually means front to rear? I dont see that happening unless you went to extreme lengths relocating a ton of stuff to your trunk as well as using ballast in the rear...
If you have considerable nose dive currently with the 10k on the front Id recommend going stiffer to maybe a 12k but be sure to up your rear rates accordingly.
Also, how the f did you get your weight distribution to be 52/48 assuming you actually means front to rear? I dont see that happening unless you went to extreme lengths relocating a ton of stuff to your trunk as well as using ballast in the rear...
It is still a street car with some racing preparation. Still relutant on transpassing the point of no return lol