DSMolition

iTrader: (17)

Going in to my buddys shop this weekend and wondering what camber settings I should set it at. I do mostly spirited driving and the occasional auto x and drag strip. I was thinking staying at zero toe and -2.5 up front and -1.5 in the rear as of now the car likes to under steer in the corners so im setting the front suspension soft and the rear sway bar/dampers hard.


Suspension Modifications:
Whiteline 24mm rear adjustable sway bar
Whiteline Rear adjustable end links
Whiteline Front 26mm sway bar
Whiteline Front adjustable end links
Whiteline Steering precision kit
Whiteline roll center correction kit
Whiteline lower control arm bushings
Fortune 500 coil overs 8k/8k


Wheels are x wheels with 245 45 tires.



What do you guys think I should set it at?

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Your ideas on align look pretty standard & on the aggressive side for sure, for street driving

Heres a thread that discusses track alignments that you might find interesting
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ion-gurus.html

I use to run an aggressive front like you, but have since stood the front tire up at -1.8 (not tracking any more)

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Alignment is good. I would switch the rear spring rate out for 10k, and start with sway bars on soft setting and go from there.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

+1 on stiffer rear springs in the rear. It will help to combat understeer. You may also be fighting the FSB, but it kinda depends on who you ask.
+2k to the rear is pretty common. I'm currently at +1k at my rear and really like how neutral the car feels, especially at higher speeds.
Another small thing I did that helped with understeer, on my car, is keeping rake to 13mm. The wheel arches look funny on the wheels, but it works really well.

To keep it simple: your alignment settings should work just fine for ya. You may not like the tire wear on the front, but that's the price we pay when really pushing our cars. LOL

DSMolition

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the input guys. I might tone it down to -2 and -1. Yes I know different rear springs will help the car from plowing so bad and I hope to change that soon.
I just installed the roll center kit and both my lower control arm bolts were seized to the sleeve. man that was fun..




Where do you measure the rake? My front was slammed and I didn't realize my struts were not even in height from right to left so I changed that and raised it up a bit. So if anything I have a little front to back rake.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Rake is the from the pinch welds just rear of front wheel well & just front of rear well to the ground

Here is one of our most infamous threads on rake

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...bout-rake.html

DSMolition

iTrader: (17)

Had to cancel the last alignment apt now going on the rack on Saturday.


As it sits it has about a 1" rake from rear to front. Is that ok or should I try to reduce it to get a more level setup? I read most of that thread and seems like as long as the control arms are level it will be ok. I believe im at 6" rear and 5" front from the pinch welds.


Thanks!

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

**** end is too high for my liking. I prefer the pinch welds to be even front to rear for a more neutral to under-steer feel when running into a fast, high speed corner.
With the rear end higher, snap oversteer is more prevalent IMO

Maybe for an AX setup, the higher rear is more common for rear rotation (not sure, as Im not a fan of the AX =(

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I don't know that there is a rule of thumb. Someone who knows much more about setting up our cars than I do advised me to do 13-15mm (1/2"), so that's where I stay.
He told me higher = more weight to front = more understeer.

DSMolition

iTrader: (17)

My car already understeer's so ill bring the front up another half inch. The rear is almost tucking tire now so I don't want to lower the rear. Thanks for the thoughts guys! Just want to make things the best I can with what I have.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

What i was trying to convey, is that you have your rakes backwards & that at the noted pinch weld values @ 5" & 6", I think youre too low

FJF

iTrader: (18)

Let me pay you the compliment of being completely honest. No one can give you relevant alignment specs, as the geometry has been altered. The odds are that your roll center is below ground and your spring rates likely go to infinity as soon as you turn the wheel. Of course the car understeers. I'd hate to imagine how it corners at speed. Plainly put, the car hardly has a functioning suspension.

To fix this, raise the car to stock height, then lower the rear by 1" and the front by ~1.5". Set the RSB to the middle position. Align the car to -`1.7/-1.5 zero toe. It won't look slammed, but it will corner. Good luck.

Edit: Just read the rest of the comments. True, your springs could be better balanced. They're also way too stiff for where I, personally, drive. If you drive on similar roads, your car will be faster and significantly easier to point and control with a more compliant setup. This being said, not knowing the overall scope of the suspension this is kinda like shooting in the dark. Except for compliance. It's usually faster.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

My car looks like a low rider LOL. Sadly, our fender openings are shaped to accommodate standard rake. Im not low enough to be tucked, but there is obvious difference in wheel gap.

This worked well for my car, with my particular RSB. My only difference is I'm at 2.5°/1.5°.
​​​​​​Without looking at my notes, I believe I lowered the car the same amount, then adjusted the front until I had desired rake.
The car drives really well.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

Here's what I think:

For optimal handling in a non-specialized application, the platform has less than an inch of lowering in it. As the OP's car is equipped with the roll center kit, he has a bit more leeway, but not as much as one would like to think. As for rake, it would not be a factor if owners didn't choose their suspension modifications for appearance. As the front fenders are cut higher than the rear, some aftermarket springs try to equalize the gap by lowering the car unequally. This is not a good thing, IMO, on a platform that's already saddled with a front-weight bias.

My own IX SE was purchased almost solely due to its cornering prowess, if one were to point to a single entity. It sits on a factory Bilstein suspension - not lowered at all - with a set of Whiteline F/R anti-swaybars. There was a time when I was open to modifying the suspension and found every single set of aftermarket springs to be compromised. No exceptions. Same goes for most coilover setups. This sector of the market is dominated by a desire to go low as its prime initiative, not improved cornering. Everything stems from this idea.

There was a vendor who participated on this forum. He's definitely missed; a great guy and very knowledgeable. The springs he supported lowered the car less than others and offered some theoretical benefits. Of course, not lowering was better. The thing was, the vendor knew no one other than myself, and maybe 5-6 others, would buy his springs if they didn't offer a drop. And so it goes....

Edit: To be clear, this isn't to say that the car can't be lowered a bit and that its suspension cannot be improved. It's just that it's not as simple as the aftermarket would like folks to believe.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Low rider LOL.