My mr is getting an alignment soon and I was wondering what different setups would be good to use on a stock mr even advans. The car will be driven everyday so I don't want too bad of tire wear but some increased handling would be nice.

 

good question i also would like to know the answer to this

 

nobody knows the answer to this

 

If you still have the stock MR set-up, have it aligned or checked by the dealer.

 

Standard is:
-1deg camber front
-1deg camber rear
0mm toe in front
3mm toe in rear

For a more aggressive set up try:
-1.5deg camber front (ideally -2deg, but might cause too much tyre wear for everyday use)
-1 deg camber rear
1mm toe in front
1mm toe in rear

For a safer, but grippier set up try:
-1.5 deg camber front
-1.5 deg camber rear
0mm toe in front
3mm toe in rear

Cheers

 

thanks that is what i needed to know

 

All good answers. If it was me I'd go with
-1 deg camber front
-1 deg camber rear
0 toe front
1mm toe rear

 

hey mayhem can you explain why you would go with your settings over what admiral posted

 

I went with the settings Mayhem posted with one exception. I have -2 deg camber in the front. The reason for less toe in the rear is to reduce tire wear. The toe in helps keep the car stable at higher speeds, but also results in increased tire wear. 1mm toe-in in the rear will still keep the car stable but will decrease tire wear.

-Paul

 

That's right

You'll see the main difference between Mayhem's settings, Paul's and the first ones I posted are:

1. Amount of negative camber at the front
2. 0mm toe in vs 1mm toe in at the front

The best way to increase lateral grip at the front is to increase negative camber. If you're doing circuit driving only, with slicks, you'd want as much as -2.5 to -3 deg or even more!

For road use, you will get a significant improvement using -1.5 over -1 deg, but will get marked wear of the inside edge of the front tyres using -2 deg.

Obviously, if you markedly increase front lateral grip, but not rear, you will make the car more prone to oversteer - this makes the car more "adjustable", but isn't always the safest set up, hence my option 2 running more rear camber too. The downside of option two is that at a track, you will get understeer, and the car will be less "adjustable" with less power and lift off oversteer.

As Paul says, toe-in stabilises the axle, and also affects wear. The benefit of 1mm front toe-in is really when using the -2 deg front camber setting, to slow down turn in (and lessen roll oversteer) and slightly even up tyre wear. Using 0mm front toe in is probably better for -1 to -1.5 deg front camber.

As with all suspension set ups, there is no "right" or "wrong" answer (within limits!). Try one of the settings above as a starting point, get used to how the car drives, remembering it will take the tyres a few hundred miles to wear in to the new settings, and for you to get the feel of them.

Then, if you want better turn in, better stability, more understeer, more oversteer etc, then you can fine tune it from there!

Have fun testing it out

 

thanks man all of that info really helped me out a lot. i am going to make an appointment with the allignment shop

 

I'm not sure if the MR is the same as the '03s as far as front camber, but on the 03s you have two options, which on my car put the camber at -0.8 deg or -2.0 deg. I intially wanted -1.5, but because that wasn't an option chose to go with -2.0. The only way I could work around this is with camber plates.

-Paul

 

The top bolt is an asymmetric "camber adjust" bolt similar to these: http://www.spcperformance.com/PerfPa...art_EZCam.html

I'm not sure if the upper hole is asymmetric or round? If it's round, you can partially rotate the bolts to whatever setting between -1 (or .8) and -2, if it's asymmetric, you may only be able to fit it one way or the other as described, but by loosening the bottom bolt, or oversizing the hole very slightly, you should be able to adjust it to an intermediate position...

On my EVO IV, the suspension is totally different, and it has enough free play to adjust it up to -2 deg without camber bolts.

As mentioned camber top mounts (plates) are a more versatile way of changing camber, but can introduce problems with noise and ride quality (and are expensive!).

Let us know how you get on!

Cheers

 

I listed what I did because it certainly provides the least amount of tire wear, but also helps get rid of some of that understeer. At least to the point of enducing oversteer faster , but nothing significant. You mentioned nothing else besides the street driving so I find more camber being nothing but something that will wear the tires faster. Really, I would just stick with the stock factory settings for a combination of safety and good tire wear.