RS's slight understeer
RS's slight understeer
what do you have to do to get it to stop the slight understeering issue...i have a floor mid-brace and a rear strut-bar, as well as a set of tien type-s springs,and of course it has the RS trunk bar which is stock. it still does it when your really pushing it through the courners. will the lower A arm bars from cusco help or do i infact have to do the swaybars. of course i would do both front and rear.
PS : i just realized that i posted this in the worng section, if and admin could move it it would be appreciated. TY
PS : i just realized that i posted this in the worng section, if and admin could move it it would be appreciated. TY
Last edited by BURNALL_4; Aug 8, 2006 at 09:20 AM.
buy a rear sway bar. It will completely get rid of the issues you are describing.
Hotchki's, Progressive both make great units.
I put the Hotchki's on my car and it made a HUGE difference in the car.
Hotchki's, Progressive both make great units.
I put the Hotchki's on my car and it made a HUGE difference in the car.
Where exactly are you getting understeer: entry, midcorner, exit?
sparky is right, -1.5 degrees negative camber in the front will help with both steady state balance and grip under quick transitions.
The only understeering problems I've had on my RS (completely stock suspension) are driver errors. The car will push on tight, low speed corners if I enter too hot. Otherwise, a lift of the throttle or dab of brakes will cause the rear to step out nicely.
Lots and lots of folks here suggest a stiffer rear bar, but I'm just not sold on it. Inducing more rotation can be both a good and bad thing. More than anything I worry about losing midcorner mechanical grip. While I think that looser would be faster at 30mph, I don't think I want my car looser than it is at 130mph.
That being said, there's always the subjective side. Some people (a lot of people) just like the way the car feels with a big bar. I like to drive nice and tidy, and try to set my car up so it is easy to do that.
hope this helps.
d
sparky is right, -1.5 degrees negative camber in the front will help with both steady state balance and grip under quick transitions.
The only understeering problems I've had on my RS (completely stock suspension) are driver errors. The car will push on tight, low speed corners if I enter too hot. Otherwise, a lift of the throttle or dab of brakes will cause the rear to step out nicely.
Lots and lots of folks here suggest a stiffer rear bar, but I'm just not sold on it. Inducing more rotation can be both a good and bad thing. More than anything I worry about losing midcorner mechanical grip. While I think that looser would be faster at 30mph, I don't think I want my car looser than it is at 130mph.
That being said, there's always the subjective side. Some people (a lot of people) just like the way the car feels with a big bar. I like to drive nice and tidy, and try to set my car up so it is easy to do that.
hope this helps.
d
How do you use your car? AutoX? Track Days? Running from police?
What are your current alignment settings? Are they still factory-set?
If you autox, you'll want the car a bit more loose and transitions will be fairly important. My experience is that you'll want to max out front camber (some people have gotten close to -2deg) and run a little toe out in front (1/8" total). Make sure the camber bolts up front have the arrows pointing out (there's a small arrow-head on the camble bolt). You'll probably also want the rear sway bar for autox. The rear sway bar will cause the back-end of the car to bear more of the load while cornering, which will help the car to rotate, taking out some of the understeer. At this point, you can play with rear camber to further control rotation. Less camber in rear will cause it to rotate more, but may make it difficult to get the power down on exit. More rear camber will keep the rear planted better, but will contribute to understeer. Oh, and lots of camber with toe-out up front *will* wear the tires on the inside, so be prepared.
For track days, a little push is acceptable. Like donour said, you don't want too much rotation at 130mph. You may be able to get away with just playing with your alignment and not installing the rear sway bar (it sounds like your a bit hessitant to do that). I'd personally avoid playing with suspension geometry. There's a lot of more simple things to do before you go that route.
For running from the police... well... you're on your own.
Brad
What are your current alignment settings? Are they still factory-set?
If you autox, you'll want the car a bit more loose and transitions will be fairly important. My experience is that you'll want to max out front camber (some people have gotten close to -2deg) and run a little toe out in front (1/8" total). Make sure the camber bolts up front have the arrows pointing out (there's a small arrow-head on the camble bolt). You'll probably also want the rear sway bar for autox. The rear sway bar will cause the back-end of the car to bear more of the load while cornering, which will help the car to rotate, taking out some of the understeer. At this point, you can play with rear camber to further control rotation. Less camber in rear will cause it to rotate more, but may make it difficult to get the power down on exit. More rear camber will keep the rear planted better, but will contribute to understeer. Oh, and lots of camber with toe-out up front *will* wear the tires on the inside, so be prepared.
For track days, a little push is acceptable. Like donour said, you don't want too much rotation at 130mph. You may be able to get away with just playing with your alignment and not installing the rear sway bar (it sounds like your a bit hessitant to do that). I'd personally avoid playing with suspension geometry. There's a lot of more simple things to do before you go that route.
For running from the police... well... you're on your own.
Brad
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A good start would be getting another set of springs.
While the green springs look nice, most people have come to the consensus that they do NOT improve performance, and actually reduce overall handling capabilities. They are (as advertised by Tein) a "style" spring. They are too soft, and too low.
I wouldn't even worry about swaybars, strut braces, lower arm bars, etc. until that's taken care of. They won't really be truly worth it until you have a real performance spring. Returning to stock would be an upgrade IMO. Get the springs and a performance alignment, then the swaybars if you're not satisfied.
Do a search for Swift Springs. Not the only choice, but a well proven and well liked spring for EVO. While you're at it, you should dig up some threads on the Tein's too....
Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions!
- andrew
While the green springs look nice, most people have come to the consensus that they do NOT improve performance, and actually reduce overall handling capabilities. They are (as advertised by Tein) a "style" spring. They are too soft, and too low.
I wouldn't even worry about swaybars, strut braces, lower arm bars, etc. until that's taken care of. They won't really be truly worth it until you have a real performance spring. Returning to stock would be an upgrade IMO. Get the springs and a performance alignment, then the swaybars if you're not satisfied.
Do a search for Swift Springs. Not the only choice, but a well proven and well liked spring for EVO. While you're at it, you should dig up some threads on the Tein's too....
Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions!
- andrew
Originally Posted by GTWORX.com
Returning to stock would be an upgrade IMO. Get the springs and a performance alignment, then the swaybars if you're not satisfied.- andrew
It seems the originator of this thread is not that well versed in suspension setup. (no offence) Like someone else said.....coming into the corner to hot with a late apex will cause the front end to push as well.....may be your driving habits.
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