MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

If youre going to go through a PC session, consider having the calipers rebuilt. Be a shame to PC them & find out later

N1MR0D

I would gladly ship them off to someone that will do all the work. I couldn't find a service that did this. I have already ordered seals from GiroDisc and began the disassembly process. Is there such a company that will tear them down, inspect them, powder them and rebuild them?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

"Rebuilding" is a strong word. We literally swap seals and dust covers. It's so easy, you would feel silly paying someone. But.. I can see the allure in having them refinished, put together, and getting them back without having to deal with brake fluid haha.
I have to redo all my dust covers. They didn't even last a year. 'Suckers get hot. Maybe I need Ti shims, afterall (was hoping to avoid them).

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

I had mine done by detective coating re: powdercoating & "rebuilding." i got stainless steel pistons & high temp seals from Racing Brake

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

There you go Sam. Thats the way to do it

Road Race Eng uses Centric to rebuild & PC. They were charging around $375 for the fronts & $275 for the rears some years ago
http://www.centricparts.com/products...ut=edit&id=269

N1MR0D

I read that post before posting here. I didn't see that you said Detective specifically reassembled the calipers after powder coating them. So I had been looking for a service that did that.

But I do have some specific questions:
1.) How can one tell if a caliper is bad/needs to be replaced? When I was disassembling the fronts some of the pistons were sticking and some freely moved. Like Minus said above, I don't want to go through powder if the caliper is bad. I have already ordered new seals/boots from GiroDisc. Do I clean and test fit the calipers and go from there?

2.) Were the stainless steel pistons worth it/helpful in that they provide a longer service interval or better heat transfer. Are they worth the investment?

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

wrt your most important question, i honestly do not know. i may reach out to detective coating and see what they say. sticky pistons obviously are not a good sign, but it may be something that is addressed when servicing this caliper. I know Detective takes them apart, I do not know any further than that.

wrt to the stainless steel pistons, i'm not sure yet. I have actually been out at HPDE a few times in your neck of the woods (autobahn cc @ joliet) and i have boiled my brakes on that track. since then, i've taken a number of measures to prevent the fluid from boiling, including titanium shims & these stainless steel pistons. i'll be at a track day on 6/1 at autobahn cc to test them out.

N1MR0D

Just talked with Detective. They said they will break down all 4 calipers including removing the seals, separating the halves, taping them off, shot blasting them, powder them any color, then reassemble the halves, install new seals, new stainless bleeder screws and check them. Shipped $670.

Seems like a lot based on the seal prices and the local powder shops quote to paint. Granted seals and labor are on me. Anyone have thoughts on this?

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Call RoadRace & get them to quote you. They send them out to Centric. Let us know what they quote you

N1MR0D

Called Road Race. They no longer service calipers. They had a customer complain of the powder coating job wasn't perfect and they decided to stop offering the service all together. On the bright side the gentleman that answered the phone was very knowledgeable and helpful. He suggested that if their wasn't any visible scoring on the cylinder walls or pistons of the caliper then odd are the seal was bad/restrictive. He did advise their is a specific grease to be used when reassembling it that is hard to come by. A lithium glycol based grease used to reassemble the calipers usually only found in gallon containers made by Castrol popular in the UK.

SO, I am going to wait for my Girodisc seals and see if they fit and help fitment for my pistons/calipers. And if they do, then to the powder shop they go. If not, then punt.

N1MR0D

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Unless you're doing pretty intensive road course driving you won't need stainless pistons. They don't offer any benefit on the street.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

agree, but even for light hpde work i've boiled my fluid. finally going back out to autobahn south in joliet this friday, excited to see how the evo x brakes do! preliminary testing at autox has been very positive!

darkmarc86

Hi, I'm currently looking to buy some new tires, brake rotors and brake pads.

I currently have Kumho KU31 tyres. They've been good and lasted me 60,000km but their wet grip seems a bit poor, so considering changing to something else.
The current brake rotors and pads are Mitsubishi OEM ones I believe.

I've spoken to my mechanic (who specialises in Evos) and they recommend Bridgestone RE003 tyres ($180 fitted and balanced), DBA 4000 T3 Rotors ($210 each) and Brembo Pads ($110 front $100 rear) and $110 labour to change all Brakes. These are Australian prices btw.

Does anybody have any comment on these parts? My car is an Evo 7 GTA and I just drive it on weekends casually, though I'm looking to take it to a track soon. The parts that my mechanic is recommending is already at the upper end of what I was hoping to spend, but I'm happy to pay for better quality parts that will last longer and perform better.

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks in advance.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Couldnt locate the UTQG code for those RE003's but the KU31 had a UTQG rating of 320-340 (medium hard, higher mileage type rubber). Now, its been noted that the UTQG code is very subjective & determined by each manufacturer, but it gives you a good idea of the tire aggressiveness to grip

Sounds like you need an All Season UHP tire. I would keep the UTQG code below 300

I dont drive my EvO in the wet, so i always choose a UHP summer tire. Current tire is a: Federal 595 EVO w/a 240 UTQG ;rating