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The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread

 
Old May 16, 2018, 09:02 PM
  #601  
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Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
How do you tell if a caliper is bad. I have just disassembled all four calipers from my IX getting them ready for powder coating. Rear were pretty smooth. Pistons came right out. However on the fronts one group (one side) of pistons or one piston dragged more than the rest. Frankly some of the pistons did not slide as smoothly as the rears. I cannot see and physical damage on the walls of the pistons or cylinders.

Could I just have bad or inadequately lubed seals/pistons?
How should I go about testing the calipers before I invest the time/money of powder coating them?
If youre going to go through a PC session, consider having the calipers rebuilt. Be a shame to PC them & find out later
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Old May 16, 2018, 09:11 PM
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I would gladly ship them off to someone that will do all the work. I couldn't find a service that did this. I have already ordered seals from GiroDisc and began the disassembly process. Is there such a company that will tear them down, inspect them, powder them and rebuild them?
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Old May 16, 2018, 11:52 PM
  #603  
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Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
I would gladly ship them off to someone that will do all the work. I couldn't find a service that did this. I have already ordered seals from GiroDisc and began the disassembly process. Is there such a company that will tear them down, inspect them, powder them and rebuild them?
"Rebuilding" is a strong word. We literally swap seals and dust covers. It's so easy, you would feel silly paying someone. But.. I can see the allure in having them refinished, put together, and getting them back without having to deal with brake fluid haha.
I have to redo all my dust covers. They didn't even last a year. 'Suckers get hot. Maybe I need Ti shims, afterall (was hoping to avoid them).
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Old May 17, 2018, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
I would gladly ship them off to someone that will do all the work. I couldn't find a service that did this. I have already ordered seals from GiroDisc and began the disassembly process. Is there such a company that will tear them down, inspect them, powder them and rebuild them?
I had mine done by detective coating re: powdercoating & "rebuilding." i got stainless steel pistons & high temp seals from Racing Brake
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Old May 17, 2018, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo View Post
I had mine done by detective coating re: powdercoating & "rebuilding." i got stainless steel pistons & high temp seals from Racing Brake
There you go Sam. Thats the way to do it

Road Race Eng uses Centric to rebuild & PC. They were charging around $375 for the fronts & $275 for the rears some years ago
http://www.centricparts.com/products...ut=edit&id=269





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Old May 17, 2018, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo View Post
I had mine done by detective coating re: powdercoating & "rebuilding." i got stainless steel pistons & high temp seals from Racing Brake
I read that post before posting here. I didn't see that you said Detective specifically reassembled the calipers after powder coating them. So I had been looking for a service that did that.

But I do have some specific questions:
1.) How can one tell if a caliper is bad/needs to be replaced? When I was disassembling the fronts some of the pistons were sticking and some freely moved. Like Minus said above, I don't want to go through powder if the caliper is bad. I have already ordered new seals/boots from GiroDisc. Do I clean and test fit the calipers and go from there?

2.) Were the stainless steel pistons worth it/helpful in that they provide a longer service interval or better heat transfer. Are they worth the investment?
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Old May 17, 2018, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
I read that post before posting here. I didn't see that you said Detective specifically reassembled the calipers after powder coating them. So I had been looking for a service that did that.

But I do have some specific questions:
1.) How can one tell if a caliper is bad/needs to be replaced? When I was disassembling the fronts some of the pistons were sticking and some freely moved. Like Minus said above, I don't want to go through powder if the caliper is bad. I have already ordered new seals/boots from GiroDisc. Do I clean and test fit the calipers and go from there?

2.) Were the stainless steel pistons worth it/helpful in that they provide a longer service interval or better heat transfer. Are they worth the investment?
wrt your most important question, i honestly do not know. i may reach out to detective coating and see what they say. sticky pistons obviously are not a good sign, but it may be something that is addressed when servicing this caliper. I know Detective takes them apart, I do not know any further than that.

wrt to the stainless steel pistons, i'm not sure yet. I have actually been out at HPDE a few times in your neck of the woods (autobahn cc @ joliet) and i have boiled my brakes on that track. since then, i've taken a number of measures to prevent the fluid from boiling, including titanium shims & these stainless steel pistons. i'll be at a track day on 6/1 at autobahn cc to test them out.
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Old May 17, 2018, 12:38 PM
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Just talked with Detective. They said they will break down all 4 calipers including removing the seals, separating the halves, taping them off, shot blasting them, powder them any color, then reassemble the halves, install new seals, new stainless bleeder screws and check them. Shipped $670.

Seems like a lot based on the seal prices and the local powder shops quote to paint. Granted seals and labor are on me. Anyone have thoughts on this?
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Old May 17, 2018, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
Just talked with Detective. They said they will break down all 4 calipers including removing the seals, separating the halves, taping them off, shot blasting them, powder them any color, then reassemble the halves, install new seals, new stainless bleeder screws and check them. Shipped $670.

Seems like a lot based on the seal prices and the local powder shops quote to paint. Granted seals and labor are on me. Anyone have thoughts on this?
Call RoadRace & get them to quote you. They send them out to Centric. Let us know what they quote you
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Old May 17, 2018, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious View Post
Call RoadRace & get them to quote you. They send them out to Centric. Let us know what they quote you
Called Road Race. They no longer service calipers. They had a customer complain of the powder coating job wasn't perfect and they decided to stop offering the service all together. On the bright side the gentleman that answered the phone was very knowledgeable and helpful. He suggested that if their wasn't any visible scoring on the cylinder walls or pistons of the caliper then odd are the seal was bad/restrictive. He did advise their is a specific grease to be used when reassembling it that is hard to come by. A lithium glycol based grease used to reassemble the calipers usually only found in gallon containers made by Castrol popular in the UK.

SO, I am going to wait for my Girodisc seals and see if they fit and help fitment for my pistons/calipers. And if they do, then to the powder shop they go. If not, then punt.
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Old May 25, 2018, 08:07 PM
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Also for anyone that reads through this thread later, a place called Detective Coatings will rebuild and repaint all 4 calipers any color you wish for $675 at the time of this posting. Many on here have used them and they all have seemed very pleased with their services.
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Old May 25, 2018, 08:24 PM
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Unless you're doing pretty intensive road course driving you won't need stainless pistons. They don't offer any benefit on the street.
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Old May 30, 2018, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ayoustin View Post
Unless you're doing pretty intensive road course driving you won't need stainless pistons. They don't offer any benefit on the street.
agree, but even for light hpde work i've boiled my fluid. finally going back out to autobahn south in joliet this friday, excited to see how the evo x brakes do! preliminary testing at autox has been very positive!
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Old Aug 19, 2018, 04:52 AM
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Hi, I'm currently looking to buy some new tires, brake rotors and brake pads.

I currently have Kumho KU31 tyres. They've been good and lasted me 60,000km but their wet grip seems a bit poor, so considering changing to something else.
The current brake rotors and pads are Mitsubishi OEM ones I believe.

I've spoken to my mechanic (who specialises in Evos) and they recommend Bridgestone RE003 tyres ($180 fitted and balanced), DBA 4000 T3 Rotors ($210 each) and Brembo Pads ($110 front $100 rear) and $110 labour to change all Brakes. These are Australian prices btw.

Does anybody have any comment on these parts? My car is an Evo 7 GTA and I just drive it on weekends casually, though I'm looking to take it to a track soon. The parts that my mechanic is recommending is already at the upper end of what I was hoping to spend, but I'm happy to pay for better quality parts that will last longer and perform better.

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks in advance.

Last edited by darkmarc86; Aug 19, 2018 at 05:21 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2018, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by darkmarc86 View Post
Hi, I'm currently looking to buy some new tires, brake rotors and brake pads.

I currently have Kumho KU31 tyres. They've been good and lasted me 60,000km but their wet grip seems a bit poor, so considering changing to something else.
The current brake rotors and pads are Mitsubishi OEM ones I believe.

I've spoken to my mechanic (who specialises in Evos) and they recommend Bridgestone RE003 tyres ($180 fitted and balanced), DBA 4000 T3 Rotors ($210 each) and Brembo Pads ($110 front $100 rear) and $110 labour to change all Brakes. These are Australian prices btw.

Does anybody have any comment on these parts? My car is an Evo 7 GTA and I just drive it on weekends casually, though I'm looking to take it to a track soon. The parts that my mechanic is recommending is already at the upper end of what I was hoping to spend, but I'm happy to pay for better quality parts that will last longer and perform better.

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks in advance.
Couldnt locate the UTQG code for those RE003's but the KU31 had a UTQG rating of 320-340 (medium hard, higher mileage type rubber). Now, its been noted that the UTQG code is very subjective & determined by each manufacturer, but it gives you a good idea of the tire aggressiveness to grip

Sounds like you need an All Season UHP tire. I would keep the UTQG code below 300

I dont drive my EvO in the wet, so i always choose a UHP summer tire. Current tire is a: Federal 595 EVO w/a 240 UTQG ;rating


Last edited by MinusPrevious; Aug 19, 2018 at 08:26 PM.
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