The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread
Mar 14, 2009, 09:23 AM
#63
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Very nice. Andy at GTWorx said he leaves his 01s on his daily and they actually do have some bite when cold which is nice. I hate the idea of having to swap pads at 5PM after a track session when I'm 3 hours from home.
Mar 16, 2009, 08:07 PM
#64
Is Andy running them just up front like you for DD ? ...or front and back too ? I know the PFC rotors handle the 097's pretty well for DD. 097's in the rear are a little tougher on the rear rotors (Centric slotted). I wish PFC would make some rear rotors for the IX to take the punishment a little better.
Mar 21, 2009, 09:52 PM
#65
Little update:
GiroDisc blank rotors came in today - looked awesome. Installed and re-bed my front pads. Working fantastic.
Also installed rear Axxis ULT's - just like my front HPS that I took off, the rears were glazed over too. Now with the ULT's - the car has good bite on all 4 corners. Noticed decreased stopping distance. Especially on the freeway.
GiroDisc blank rotors came in today - looked awesome. Installed and re-bed my front pads. Working fantastic.
Also installed rear Axxis ULT's - just like my front HPS that I took off, the rears were glazed over too. Now with the ULT's - the car has good bite on all 4 corners. Noticed decreased stopping distance. Especially on the freeway.
Last edited by Smike; Mar 24, 2009 at 04:45 AM.
Mar 22, 2009, 05:34 AM
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Is Andy running them just up front like you for DD ? ...or front and back too ? I know the PFC rotors handle the 097's pretty well for DD. 097's in the rear are a little tougher on the rear rotors (Centric slotted). I wish PFC would make some rear rotors for the IX to take the punishment a little better.
Apr 3, 2009, 01:04 PM
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Not to thread hijack, but with regards to brake cooling, would running a water cooling, like IC spray to the inside of the rotors, help in any way with cooling? Or just cause thermal stress and crack the rotors?
Apr 3, 2009, 01:30 PM
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hey smike, hear I am bumping an old thread. I have been following your threads and all the info you have provided with regards to suspension and brakes has been awesome. just a quick question:
i currently have rotorpros drilled/slotted, SS lines, and HPS pads. I agree, the HPS's are absolute crap and I cant wait to get rid of them. looking for a new pad, already have a couple of ideas but wanted to get your valuable input. I will be autoX my car regularly with a couple of trips to the glen in the next few months. doesnt look like I will have enough money for a dedicated only track pad unless i stick with the HPS pads. do you have any recommendations of what pad would be good for the track use I will be doing? also, the car is DD. i want something that will stop extremely well bc the majority of the time i drive the car (DD) is simply when i go out and take some turns with my friends on some back roads. (sorry if thats confusing: car is DD but i dont drive it every day and wen i do its to go for a spirited cruise)
will a high temp track only pad tear through or warp the rotorpros pretty quickly? if not, would you suggest i just stick with the garbage hps and get a track only pad for the front? thanks again for all your knowledge, gl this season!
i currently have rotorpros drilled/slotted, SS lines, and HPS pads. I agree, the HPS's are absolute crap and I cant wait to get rid of them. looking for a new pad, already have a couple of ideas but wanted to get your valuable input. I will be autoX my car regularly with a couple of trips to the glen in the next few months. doesnt look like I will have enough money for a dedicated only track pad unless i stick with the HPS pads. do you have any recommendations of what pad would be good for the track use I will be doing? also, the car is DD. i want something that will stop extremely well bc the majority of the time i drive the car (DD) is simply when i go out and take some turns with my friends on some back roads. (sorry if thats confusing: car is DD but i dont drive it every day and wen i do its to go for a spirited cruise)
will a high temp track only pad tear through or warp the rotorpros pretty quickly? if not, would you suggest i just stick with the garbage hps and get a track only pad for the front? thanks again for all your knowledge, gl this season!
Apr 3, 2009, 01:48 PM
#71
boostedtres - thanks! Its ok - its sticked just for this 
For street/AX, I really recommend the Satisfied GranSport GS5's. THMotorsports (one of our vendors) sells them for $120 shipped for the fronts. Great stopping bite and price.
For track days, you really should be on a dedicated track pad. Its not an issue of the track pads eating the rotors, its the pads not having bite until hot. Carbotech makes good track pads and they are reasonably priced. I have my Hawk HT10, also a good track pad.
For the rears, I just run one pad for both areas. The rears do not see a ton of heat, like the fronts do. It is important to match the bite to the fronts though. I am running the Axxis ULTs right now - uber inexpensive, high MOT, and great bite.
So math rundown - you are looking for $120 up front. $70ish for the rear. And $230-300 for the track fronts.
EDIT: for the future ditch the drilled rotors. They tend to crack under tracking (unless uber expensive ones).
For street/AX, I really recommend the Satisfied GranSport GS5's. THMotorsports (one of our vendors) sells them for $120 shipped for the fronts. Great stopping bite and price.
For track days, you really should be on a dedicated track pad. Its not an issue of the track pads eating the rotors, its the pads not having bite until hot. Carbotech makes good track pads and they are reasonably priced. I have my Hawk HT10, also a good track pad.
For the rears, I just run one pad for both areas. The rears do not see a ton of heat, like the fronts do. It is important to match the bite to the fronts though. I am running the Axxis ULTs right now - uber inexpensive, high MOT, and great bite.
So math rundown - you are looking for $120 up front. $70ish for the rear. And $230-300 for the track fronts.
EDIT: for the future ditch the drilled rotors. They tend to crack under tracking (unless uber expensive ones).
Last edited by Smike; Apr 3, 2009 at 01:51 PM.
May 6, 2009, 10:01 AM
#73
I did my brakes (pads, SS lines, and a fluid flush) about 2 weeks ago, and plan to bleed the lines again later this week. Would it be ok to use the left-over ATE Blue fluid (container was opened 2 weeks ago, been sitting with the cap on ever since) or would it be best to buy new fluid and use that since it will be from a brand new sealed can? I know it begins to absorb moisture once the seal is broken, but could being open for only 2 weeks hurt it?
May 6, 2009, 10:53 AM
#75
I did my brakes (pads, SS lines, and a fluid flush) about 2 weeks ago, and plan to bleed the lines again later this week. Would it be ok to use the left-over ATE Blue fluid (container was opened 2 weeks ago, been sitting with the cap on ever since) or would it be best to buy new fluid and use that since it will be from a brand new sealed can? I know it begins to absorb moisture once the seal is broken, but could being open for only 2 weeks hurt it?