Smike

iTrader: (8)

No. Can reuse OE shims, get Ti shims, use shims that come with new pads (some), or not use shims at all.

Svendiesel

iTrader: (25)

Ok cool, and I was planning on going with GS5 pads but....I cant find ANY online at all. Theres millions of sites with GS6's but no GS5's. Any info on where to score some? If I dont go with them I wasgonna do the DS-2500's. I sorta like some brake squeal to be honest lol.

I may go with girodisc magic pads too though because theyre supposedly pretty great pads and theyre 100 bucks cheaper for front and rear vs the ds2500's (maperformance.com)

Smike

iTrader: (8)

GS5s - in this very thread. THMotorsports or directly from Satisfied Brakes -- http://www.ibrakeparts.com/

Magics are good, but do not have the bite the GS5s or DS2500s have.

Pure EvoIX

iTrader: (7)

I got a few questions and I really need your help.

1) What would cause uneven brake pad wear on the track. Inner wears more than the outer. Either the top or bottom of pad is thicker or thinner than the other (1mm).

2)Is it common for people who HPDE on R-Comps to have to bleed every 2 sessions due to spongy pedal, longer brake pedal travel. Running Raybestos ST-43. Why do i keep getting this spongy pedal feeling after 4-5 laps or so. Is it seals? Dustboots? Pads getting too hot, exceeding the 1400F limit. Im also running Ti shields. Am I simply just boiling the motul600? Need Castrol or something? Yes, I bled them correctly.

3)I have 3-3.5mm remaining pad material for ST-43 after 4 track days. Is that normal?

4)Would PF 97 be better than ST43 due to better control and higher MOT (2000F)?

5)What sort of indication would it entail for me to do the caliper rebuild kit for the front. Seals are not leaking, but could possibly be fried.

I Have S.S. Lines, Motul600 before the track day, and bleed again halfway through the day if it gets really bad, almost unsafe. ST-43 Pads F/R. Nitto 245/45/17. Rotorpros blanks in front (garbage IMHO) and stock rotors in rear. Have PF 2pc dimpled rotors coming tmrw. Havent installed my AMS brake duct kit yet.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Common issue on our cars. Its the design of the caliper and how the fluid travels to the pistons.

Few things: Ducts - you need those ducts. And an IR gun to see what your temps are. And you could be overbraking, riding the brakes - building up too much heat. Watch out for that. 2pc rotors are good for heat too. Also look into Ti shims.

Donno, never ran them. My HT10s, 3 seasons old, with a dozen+ track days on them still have a few more events to them.

Cooked dust boots, number of events, age.

jid2

iTrader: (62)

This, and this.

You NEED the ducts installed. And the 2 piece rotors will also help with the heat.

You really need the whole braking system upgraded to get things working well with each other - and ducting is critical.

I've run 3 track days on my ST-43's now and they still look new in terms of wear.

Ferreira

You're definetly going in the right direction with the PF disks. They will last much longer and have much better thermal stability of anything that I've used.

As for the PF 97 pads, they are a medium kind of pad so I dont know how they will compare to the ST-43 in overall torque but being medium they will create less heat for sure. I would still go with the PF01 front and rear, its a tested and very good combination for the track.

Now if you have this setup and still get mushy pedal then you have other problems on there. Surely they calipers is flexing but you might still have air in there.

Pop the bleeders open, if they dont gravity bleed a smooth constant flow, then that particular side still has air. Best thing to do is just call up the PF tech line and see what they recomend.

Pure EvoIX

iTrader: (7)

Thank you SmikeEvo, jid2, and Ferreira for answering all my questions. I really hope i can finally stop (pun intended) my braking issues after installing the 2pc rotors and installing the ducting.

In all of this I did learn a few things on the track. How to manage tires, brakes, space while trying to get a clean hot lap then cool down lap then hotlap so i dont run into traffic and traffic doesnt run into me. Usually after 20min in a 30min session, brakes are no bueno and a little scary.

Again, thank you SmikEvo and jid2. Don't know what i would do if you guys were not part of the community and this dedicated.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Very welcome!

stockEvoIX

iTrader: (4)

Wow, that seems excessive. I have like 6mm of pad left after 8 track days. It's probably time for new pads for you. If you're not riding the brakes, braking too much, etc., your calipers may be sticking and you may need a rebuild.

I typically drive like 1/3 mi+ in the paddock after a session to cool everything down. You may want to try that out and see if it helps prolong time between bleeds. If you park the car and the pads are smoking, I would recommend it What complaints do you have about Rotorpros/Centric rotors? Do you bleed with the car running? I've heard that allows the brake fluid to cycle through the ABS system. I will go with Centrics next and if they don't work out I'll just go BBK!!

Bueller

iTrader: (1)

Hi, i race my Evo 9 with Socal NASA in Super Touring. Here is my review on the Girodisc 2-piece rotors and Raybestos ST43 pads:

Review: Girodisc Rotors & Raybestos brake pads

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Thanks! Incorporated into the "Review Here" next to Girodisc 2pc

EGbeater

iTrader: (35)

This is a really valuable thread... I wish I'd found it sooner. Thanks SmikeEvo!

Has anyone experienced adding the Girodisc ti shims (w/o any other changes), and felt they helped? I'm not against spending 80 bucks for them if they DO extend the amount of time you can beat on the car before the fluid boils, but I also don't want to waste my money.

This is my current setup for trackdays:

OEM rotors
OEM calipers (front non-OEM blackened )
Technafit S/S lines
Hot Lap brake ducting with custom inlets behind the OEM bumper opening mesh
Castrol SRF fluid
Hawk DTC-70 front pads
Carbotech XP10 rear pads

I boil my fluid after about 12-15 minutes of hot laps. I'm using 275/35-18 Nitto NT01s front and rear, and my Evo is prob. somewhere in the range of 330-350 whp (best 1/4 mile: 11.989 @ 115.65 mph).

To my knowledge, I do not ride the brakes, or brake longer than necessary. I've been doing track days for many years; autox for well over a decade. That being said, I DO brake earlier than a good racer probably would... I just can't bring myself to brake at the last possible moment, and risk going off-track. For me, it's not worth the risk.

I'm hoping these parts will solve my problems:

Girodisc 2-piece rotors
Girodisc ti shims

I'll also fully rebuild the front calipers with Girodisc stuff while I'm ordering... all of my rubber piston seals have long ago evaporated.

I'm not sure what pads to use though. I'm intrigued with the concept of using a more aggressive pad in the REAR to take a bit of the load off the front brakes... I'd love to hear what "offset" brake pad combinations worked well for people.

Since I tore through Carbotech XP12s and the Hawk DTC-70s up front WAY faster than I expected/liked, I think some lower friction pads that will last longer are in order.

jid2 saying "I've run 3 track days on my ST-43's now and they still look new in terms of wear" is very enticing to me.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Welcome.

Correct, 2pc and shims. You are at the upper end of what the 1pc can do. That would be where I would go if I was in your shoes.

Ferreira

I dont have any experience with the Girodisc so I wont comment on its thermal capacity, but you can definetely reduce the front load by adding more rear brake.

The stock Evo comes with a 70.1/29.9 brake bias using the same friction front and rear. Gramma tales say to run a more aggressive friction in the front which is total crap since the OE bias is already stupid proof. So in order to actually get a bit more braking performance its better to actually have 1 step more agressive pads in the rear. Specially since the Evo/STI are AWD which can safely run the most rear bias out of all platforms.

That being said, running a less agressive pad in the front will keep things cooler and last longer.

PFC 97 front and PFC 01 rear works great with the perfect split.