The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread
#50
EvoM Guru
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I've got a quick question.
I used a set of pretty inexpensive pads last year for autox and did well. However this year I'm going to be running some Kooks (c51) R-compounds which are going to work the pads harder. I'm putting in lines and motul fluid, however my question:
Is it ok for me to just run (for example) Hawk HP+'s in the fronts ONLY for autox, then I'd put back in the front pads I already have for the street? Reason being, I'm not sure if it's really worth the extra money to buy rears for autox only, being there is more front bias anyways.
Good or bad move?
Thanks!
I used a set of pretty inexpensive pads last year for autox and did well. However this year I'm going to be running some Kooks (c51) R-compounds which are going to work the pads harder. I'm putting in lines and motul fluid, however my question:
Is it ok for me to just run (for example) Hawk HP+'s in the fronts ONLY for autox, then I'd put back in the front pads I already have for the street? Reason being, I'm not sure if it's really worth the extra money to buy rears for autox only, being there is more front bias anyways.
Good or bad move?
Thanks!
#53
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How do I know if I have to change my rotors and pads?
Is the only way by measuring it's thickness? I've read what you mentioned about "glazing" over, how can I feel (while driving) for it without looking at it?
I have slotted rotors, and I've noticed that the deepness of the slots has been decreased significantly, signifying that I've def. worn down the thickness of my rotors, but how can I verify that I need to actually change the rotors? Is the only way to simply just to measure the thickness?
Also, I have Hawk HPS pads, it's well above the wear indicators, how do I know if I have to change those?
Also, my brake feel and bite all feels pretty consistent as the day I install both on the car. (they were installed together at the same time)
thanks.
Is the only way by measuring it's thickness? I've read what you mentioned about "glazing" over, how can I feel (while driving) for it without looking at it?
I have slotted rotors, and I've noticed that the deepness of the slots has been decreased significantly, signifying that I've def. worn down the thickness of my rotors, but how can I verify that I need to actually change the rotors? Is the only way to simply just to measure the thickness?
Also, I have Hawk HPS pads, it's well above the wear indicators, how do I know if I have to change those?
Also, my brake feel and bite all feels pretty consistent as the day I install both on the car. (they were installed together at the same time)
thanks.
#54
I've read what you mentioned about "glazing" over, how can I feel (while driving) for it without looking at it?
I have slotted rotors, and I've noticed that the deepness of the slots has been decreased significantly, signifying that I've def. worn down the thickness of my rotors, but how can I verify that I need to actually change the rotors? Is the only way to simply just to measure the thickness?
Also, I have Hawk HPS pads, it's well above the wear indicators, how do I know if I have to change those?
Also, my brake feel and bite all feels pretty consistent as the day I install both on the car. (they were installed together at the same time)
thanks.
thanks.
I still do not recommend the HPS's, I am not that aggressive on the streets to warrant glazed pads.
#57
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I used the DS2500's on all corners last year. I was mostly happy with the rear DS2500's though they were noisy after events (hardened pad transfer?) and the pad material on the pad itself smeared a bit over the course of the season. (The trough between the two halves of the pad got filled with pad smeared material.)
Pros to DS2500s - more heat resistance which I might just need.
Pros to Axxis ULTs - $25 cheaper.
What would you do?
#58
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I've been on the DS2500 for two seasons now. They are a great HPDE pad which you can also use on the street.
For AX though I've found they don't have that initial bite you need unless they have a good amount of heat in them which is hard to do on a short course. I'll be switching to a dedicated track pad this year for HPDE's and running something more aggressive then the DS2500's for street/AX use.
For AX though I've found they don't have that initial bite you need unless they have a good amount of heat in them which is hard to do on a short course. I'll be switching to a dedicated track pad this year for HPDE's and running something more aggressive then the DS2500's for street/AX use.