Notices
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension Discuss everything that helps make your car start and stop to the best of it's abilities.

The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 11, 2009, 03:34 AM
  #46  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
MrBonus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: DE
Posts: 2,193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SWOLN
I've run on the 10's not the 8's at Sebring. Definitely need cooling ducts there. Boiled fluid first run, then bled the brakes, worked for 2 more sessions also using Motul 600.
Interesting, what kind of tires were you running?
Old Feb 11, 2009, 10:09 AM
  #47  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
 
SWOLN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the Florida Swamps
Posts: 1,791
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts
Originally Posted by MrBonus
Interesting, what kind of tires were you running?
RA1's. We were at full weight if that helps.
Old Feb 11, 2009, 11:25 AM
  #48  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
MrBonus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: DE
Posts: 2,193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SWOLN
RA1's. We were at full weight if that helps.
Sure, I am just trying to figure out what I'm going to run this season on Z1s. I figure I won't boil too much fluid on street tires but who knows? I run ATE Super Blue for what it's worth.

Thanks for your help.
Old Feb 15, 2009, 12:05 PM
  #49  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (24)
 
OldschoolEVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by MrBonus
Anyone run Carbotech XP8s for HPDE use?
I ran them a while back and long to have them back The initial bite is insane with good lines/fluid.
Old Feb 18, 2009, 02:11 PM
  #50  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (36)
 
LV///R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: US
Posts: 1,536
Received 194 Likes on 115 Posts
I've got a quick question.

I used a set of pretty inexpensive pads last year for autox and did well. However this year I'm going to be running some Kooks (c51) R-compounds which are going to work the pads harder. I'm putting in lines and motul fluid, however my question:

Is it ok for me to just run (for example) Hawk HP+'s in the fronts ONLY for autox, then I'd put back in the front pads I already have for the street? Reason being, I'm not sure if it's really worth the extra money to buy rears for autox only, being there is more front bias anyways.

Good or bad move?

Thanks!
Old Feb 18, 2009, 03:26 PM
  #51  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
Smike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Posts: 9,002
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
I would just run either the GranSport GS5s all around or DS2500s. They will have lots of bite and are quick to temp for AXing.

You wont have to swap them for DD use - bonus.
Old Feb 21, 2009, 08:10 AM
  #52  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
Smike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Posts: 9,002
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Updated Axxis. After talking with and driving in Otters RA. I will be running the Axxis ULT's as my rear pad this season. For the price (roughly $60 for the rear set).
Old Feb 25, 2009, 12:02 PM
  #53  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
 
mdosu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: From Ohio, now in N. Virginia
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
How do I know if I have to change my rotors and pads?
Is the only way by measuring it's thickness? I've read what you mentioned about "glazing" over, how can I feel (while driving) for it without looking at it?

I have slotted rotors, and I've noticed that the deepness of the slots has been decreased significantly, signifying that I've def. worn down the thickness of my rotors, but how can I verify that I need to actually change the rotors? Is the only way to simply just to measure the thickness?

Also, I have Hawk HPS pads, it's well above the wear indicators, how do I know if I have to change those?

Also, my brake feel and bite all feels pretty consistent as the day I install both on the car. (they were installed together at the same time)

thanks.
Old Feb 25, 2009, 12:10 PM
  #54  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
Smike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Posts: 9,002
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Originally Posted by mdosu
How do I know if I have to change my rotors and pads? Is the only way by measuring it's thickness?
Thickness, get a micrometer, minimum rotor thickness is written on the hat. Anything below 2/32" in the pad - I would get new ones.

I've read what you mentioned about "glazing" over, how can I feel (while driving) for it without looking at it?
Total lack of bite. It will require a lot more pedal pressure to bring the car down.

I have slotted rotors, and I've noticed that the deepness of the slots has been decreased significantly, signifying that I've def. worn down the thickness of my rotors, but how can I verify that I need to actually change the rotors? Is the only way to simply just to measure the thickness?
See above.

Also, I have Hawk HPS pads, it's well above the wear indicators, how do I know if I have to change those?
See above.

Also, my brake feel and bite all feels pretty consistent as the day I install both on the car. (they were installed together at the same time)

thanks.
Probably OK on the pads. If it doesn't feel worse - then its still working.


I still do not recommend the HPS's, I am not that aggressive on the streets to warrant glazed pads.
Old Mar 3, 2009, 09:17 AM
  #55  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (7)
 
evremonde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
SmikeEvo,

Any experience with porterfield pads? r-4 and r-4s.
What about the WORKS pads? (overpriced?)

thanks for the write-up, btw.
Old Mar 3, 2009, 09:24 AM
  #56  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
Smike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Posts: 9,002
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
A friend of mine runs the RS4's - work well for him. No one I know has or has used the Works pads.
Old Mar 4, 2009, 07:33 AM
  #57  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
 
286bhp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SmikeEvo
Updated Axxis. After talking with and driving in Otters RA. I will be running the Axxis ULT's as my rear pad this season. For the price (roughly $60 for the rear set).
I have been considering rear DS2500s and Axxis ULTs to run as my rear HPDE track pads for a stock evo with street tires and front PFC97s.

I used the DS2500's on all corners last year. I was mostly happy with the rear DS2500's though they were noisy after events (hardened pad transfer?) and the pad material on the pad itself smeared a bit over the course of the season. (The trough between the two halves of the pad got filled with pad smeared material.)

Pros to DS2500s - more heat resistance which I might just need.
Pros to Axxis ULTs - $25 cheaper.

What would you do?
Old Mar 4, 2009, 08:37 AM
  #58  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (17)
 
AlwaysinBoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: In da streetz
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've been on the DS2500 for two seasons now. They are a great HPDE pad which you can also use on the street.

For AX though I've found they don't have that initial bite you need unless they have a good amount of heat in them which is hard to do on a short course. I'll be switching to a dedicated track pad this year for HPDE's and running something more aggressive then the DS2500's for street/AX use.
Old Mar 4, 2009, 11:39 AM
  #59  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
Smike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Posts: 9,002
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
286hp - I would run the ULT's as my rear pad. Cheaper, same temp levels, sim. bite.
Old Mar 13, 2009, 05:10 AM
  #60  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
MrBonus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: DE
Posts: 2,193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks to this thread, I decided to go with PFC01s up front and PFC97s out back (Which I'm ordering from GTWorx) for HPDEs on Star Spec tires.

Thanks, Smike.


Quick Reply: The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:25 AM.