AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

glad you got the fronts off. I had the same problem with my VIII. I thought it was an isolated thing since my car had +100k miles. I've done coils on other cars with more mileage and never had an issue.

What I found worked best was using a hand sledge and turning the steering wheel so the bolt heads are facing out. that will give you enough leverage to really nail them with the hammer. I spent about an hour on one side before I thought to do that. Only took a couple minutes and a few GOOD whacks with the hand sledge to get those suckers out.

LancerEVA06

iTrader: (3)

ok, for those of you that fight with these bolts.... do this; go to AutoZone and pick up an electric impact wrench. Costs maybe $50 but very much well worth it. Plus it comes in handy especially since you're using breaker bars and pipes and stuff. With an impact gun you'll have less of a chance of shearing the bolt and giving yourself an even bigger problem.

MPACT

iTrader: (5)

Hello, sorry to bump an old thread but I need some help on this topic. My problem is the top bolt (camber bolt) just will not move. From the look of it, it is keyed right? Meaning that since it is an oval bolt and there is a tab on the strut to prevent it from rotating, my only choice is to hammer it out? I managed to get the bottom of the two bolts out with my impact but my top one is a NO-GO. Any help?

barneyb

I don't have any help other than to tell you that the bolt is not keyed. So, what is holding it from turning is only rust.

MPACT

iTrader: (5)

Really? Ok, I was worried because the top of the bolt head has flats on it, and with that tab on the stock strut I don't see how it could turn without the head sticking out at least 1/4"

WelDun1

So I'm bumping this decade old thread bcuz it's the only thread that shares my exact problem.
I am having the most difficult time getting these bolts out. I only need to get the driver's side bolts out for now so that I can fix my broken coilover. I've had the part to fix the coilover for 8 months now and have had zero time to fix it bcuz of work. If I don't fix it soon, I'm afraid something worse is going to break.
The​ nuts came off no probmlem, but those damn bolts have cause my blood pressure to go through the roof.
I've tried penetrating oils, hammering the Bolts out, used a 3ft cheater bar, and I tried heat for a min but nothing has worked.

PLEASE HELP!!!

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Put a jack under the front susp & jack upwards just enough to take the load off. The bolts will just slide out

I understand there are situations where these bolts get frozen in-place. Just want to make sure you take the load off & try that simple procedure first before deploying the blue wrench

WelDun1

Yeah I've definitely done all the normal tricks.
-Torch
-Cheater Bar for more TQ
- Hammer
-Jacked the knuckle up to relieve tension
One thing i may have not tried is the opposite of jacking it up. Take the 3 bolts off the top, & then lowering the knuckle instead of raising it.
Since they are coilovers and the car is lowered, the knuckle is a lot higher than it would be if it were stock struts.
IDK, but it is annoying as hell not being able to simply remove a bolt. I have a terribly obnoxious clunk coming from my coilover caused by a broken/missing bearing, and in order to fix it, I must take it off.
I can't get that 17mm nut off of the top of the coil bcuz the entire strut is spinning. Even when I use an Allen wrench on the top, it's stuck.
So in Order to get that nut off to take the coilover top hat off & replace the bearing, I must remove the entire strut. To remove the strut, I have to get those Pesky a$$ strut bolts out LoL... FML 😧 🔫

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Glad to see youve attempted the normal mechanically inclined methods.

I see your idea of lowering the strut down. Certainly worth a try.

Regarding the top nut, my experience tells me that the strut needs to see an upward load (wheels installed & on the ground) before you can break it loose w/out spinning

Wonder if corrosion is the cause. I see youre in the NW & drive it in the wet?

Keep us posted please. Wish i could help more

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Im surprised those bolts are giving you such a challenge but I've had mine out so many times and always use antiseize going back in.

Do you have access to an impact? If not a long breaker bar will work fine. The bottom bolt you should be able to break loose by rotating it with an impact or a breaker bar. Thats your best bet to break that seize on that one. The top one you can rotate as that is the eccentric but im thinking if you can get the bottom one off if you can sorta pivot the bottom of the strut independent of the knuckle itll give you enough to break the seize on that one.

WelDun1

Oh I guarantee there's rust & corrosion, but it's not from the NW cuz we don't use salt on our roads.
So I actually got the 17mm nut off yesterday, and now I'm even more frustrated bcuz the problem ended up being the entire upper Bearing mount. It's the round part that bolts to the bottom of the camber plate. That's where the bearings are, and there is a bunch of play in the bearing, So.... now I have to buy a replacement mount to fix it. The only problem is that the spot on top of the shaft that has the hole for the 5mm Allen key is stripped. IDK if I can file the hole a lil bit to fit a 6mm Allen in there or something, but the only way to keep the shaft from spinning is to wrap something around the shaft Bellow at the spring. It's a mess haha


I personally have never let any of my hardware become rusted or corroded etc... But it was like this when I bought the car last year. I've already replaced all the exhaust hardware & applied anti-seize on all of it. It's definitely one of my pet peeves when it comes to my cars.
As far as the bottom strut bolts go, they are in there pretty good. One trick I haven't tried yet, even tho it's a bit dangerous, is to jack the front end up higher, put a long breaker bar on the bolt angled towards the ground, and then you slowly lower the car and the weight shud break the bolt free. Old school tricks. I've never had so much trouble with corroded hardware on a car like I've had with my Evo.

I'm going to order the pillow ball mount this weekend from Megan. Until then I'ma have to deal with the clunk...i still have a new turbo & 02 dump to install b4 it gets too cold outside.
I​​'ll keep u guys posted tho.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

We are patiently waiting for some good news

Stay w/it & get these bolts / parts replaced and as Eric noted, lets deploy some Anti-Seize going fwd