Lowering springs and suspension travel. You ARE hitting the bumpstops.
#92
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just read this whole thread. good read for sure. im interested in springs as well and gtworx sound pretty good. i would like to do shocks too, but brand new bilsteins are like 500 bucks each on lancershop. im not cheap when it comes to cars, but there is a limit to what i'll spend. any better prices on new shocks or do i have to look for used? do they have to be rebuilt for gtworx springs to get best performance?
i know, i got a lot more reading to do.
i know, i got a lot more reading to do.
#93
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get them from drew at GTWorx for a lot less then that.
I just got the GTWorx stage 1 (my label, drew calls it "must haves") installed and let me tell you it's crazy.
I've got the whiteline 24 on full stiff and it stays flat and over steers on demand. beautiful. complyetrely superior to stock.
I just got the GTWorx stage 1 (my label, drew calls it "must haves") installed and let me tell you it's crazy.
I've got the whiteline 24 on full stiff and it stays flat and over steers on demand. beautiful. complyetrely superior to stock.
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just read this whole thread. good read for sure. im interested in springs as well and gtworx sound pretty good. i would like to do shocks too, but brand new bilsteins are like 500 bucks each on lancershop. im not cheap when it comes to cars, but there is a limit to what i'll spend. any better prices on new shocks or do i have to look for used? do they have to be rebuilt for gtworx springs to get best performance?
i know, i got a lot more reading to do.
i know, i got a lot more reading to do.
l8r)
#95
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Got my Bilsteins from eshocks. Much happier with the ride quality over kyb. Have mine paired with spec Rs. I also cut over 2" off each bumpstop. Just left enough to support the dust boots. The Bilstein literature says there is an internal bumpstop.
#96
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#98
Question: I am getting ready to install a set of Bilstein HD's and Swift Sport springs. I am also installing Ralliart strut tops. Do I need to cut the bumpstops? If so how much do I need to cut?
#99
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Think of a suspension install as a trial and error or test and fit process. Put it all together without the bumpstops and just half tighten the 2 strut bolts. Set the car down on its wheels and measure your gap by putting a zip tie on the strut and jouncing the a little once its down.
Jack it back up and see where you're at. The bump stop should be short enough not interfere at all with this test.
Jack it back up and see where you're at. The bump stop should be short enough not interfere at all with this test.
#100
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I like that pointer Dallas. As a reference for Spec R springs, I had originally cut off all but about 1" on the front. Even then, upon compression it would still jam the bumpstop/dust sleeve into the spring mount. While installing my Noltec plates I trimmed off another half inch. Just enough now to support the dust sleeve. I'll see if it still pushes that far up the next time I jack the car up.
#101
I like that pointer Dallas. As a reference for Spec R springs, I had originally cut off all but about 1" on the front. Even then, upon compression it would still jam the bumpstop/dust sleeve into the spring mount. While installing my Noltec plates I trimmed off another half inch. Just enough now to support the dust sleeve. I'll see if it still pushes that far up the next time I jack the car up.
#102
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I'm not sure how much of my bump stops are left. I bought the car already lowered. From what I was told, they are Tein S-Tech springs on stock 9 struts, MR's I think, if those are different I don't know.
I'm thinking about getting a new suspension setup after I get my engine built. Considering the Eibach HD's people keep talking about with the spec r's and whiteline bars. I realize I'll also have to get the Roll Center Kit too.
I really like how my car rides right now, but it could be a little bit higher and give me a bit more ride height and comfort that I wont obliterate my front bumper on dead animals and such on the interstate. The car could definitely handle better though. It pushes really bad now, though its confidence inspiring through sweepers. Some of the push could be that I have my stock wheels on and have yet to drive the car with good grippy tires..
I'm thinking about getting a new suspension setup after I get my engine built. Considering the Eibach HD's people keep talking about with the spec r's and whiteline bars. I realize I'll also have to get the Roll Center Kit too.
I really like how my car rides right now, but it could be a little bit higher and give me a bit more ride height and comfort that I wont obliterate my front bumper on dead animals and such on the interstate. The car could definitely handle better though. It pushes really bad now, though its confidence inspiring through sweepers. Some of the push could be that I have my stock wheels on and have yet to drive the car with good grippy tires..
#103
Cutting the bumpstops is an option, but it does have it's drawbacks. They're progressive....so cutting them means the impact when you do hit them (which you will) is going to be more abrupt and probably not pleasant. You do need the bumpstops there for those times when you DO bottom out the damper (which is obviously more likely when you lower the car 1.5 inches).
With other strut cars I've worked on, a 25-30mm bump stop with 6-9mm solid Delrin or UHMW packer have provided enough protection at full compression. This is particularly useful when you've raised the spring rates enough to not have to use the bump stops all the time. For a closer-to-stock sprung setup, like Swifts or OE, going to about 35-40mm bump stop length (and making sure the stop has a linear profile) will keep a neutral handling balance without sudden understeer rearing its ugly head!
#104
So if bump stops are getting hit how far away are we then from bottoming out the shock? We suspect we have killed a set of brand new bilsteins in a few thousand miles with specR springs 😤