Need help with brake bleeding, I'm about to loose it...
Can you verify you:
Pressurized the system (had someone pumping at the appropriate time)
Refilled the reservoir to at or above the full line
Bled both the inner and outer fittings on the calipers
Have pads and rotors installed
Pressurized the system (had someone pumping at the appropriate time)
Refilled the reservoir to at or above the full line
Bled both the inner and outer fittings on the calipers
Have pads and rotors installed
The reservoir was topped off, all bleed screws(inner and outer) were closed.
Helper pumped pedal a few times and held, and I cracked a bleed screw.
Let out some fluid/air mix(or sometimes absolutely nothing) then closed bleeder
Helper released pedal
I did this very simple process about 5 times on all 8 bleed screws in the correct order as per the service manual, and still no luck.
I used the motive brake bleeder. The evo 8/9 uses the 1107 adapter its for a 3 tab mustang but it works for our cars. I believe the problem you maybe having is because when you drained the system to install the brake lines you "locked up" the abs pump. I think you may need to access the obd port and unlock it. Dunno what's involved in that but that's my guess???
I used the motive brake bleeder. The evo 8/9 uses the 1107 adapter its for a 3 tab mustang but it works for our cars. I believe the problem you maybe having is because when you drained the system to install the brake lines you "locked up" the abs pump. I think you may need to access the obd port and unlock it. Dunno what's involved in that but that's my guess???
I'm at work so I can't really look at the repair manual right now. But I think what happens is this: If you replace the lines and you drain too much fluid you lose all the pressure downstream of the abs unit. That locks the abs unit I believe there are valves in there which go closed and you need to open them by hooking up thru the obd port with a scan tool. When I replaced my lines I had some plastic pieces which I threaded in there to prevent the fluid from draining. I can't say for sure that's what's happening just a guess from work????
Last edited by drmartens68; Mar 28, 2011 at 09:16 AM.
I'm gunna be out in the garage seeing what I can figure out. As I said before, a big thank you to everyone who has taken a second or two, to post something on here in an attempt to help me out. My Evo is my DD, so I have to get this thing back on the road. I'll post later and let you all know how it's going.
start the car when bleeding. pump the brake pedal a few times then holding and then bleed the screw. if the pedal falls on the floor just raise it up and pump again. yours will have lots of air in it since you replaced the lines.
Can anyone tell me why my brake/clutch fluid reservoir appears full from the exterior, however when I remove the cap, and the debris filter it was completely empty!? I'm beginning to wonder if this is the root of my whole brake bleed issue! While looking at the outside of the reservoir, there is a distinct line right about at the MAX line. It's not just a "stain" either. When you shake the reservoir the fluid line moves as if full. I may be near the end of my problems. Any advise or input?
Can anyone tell me why my brake/clutch fluid reservoir appears full from the exterior, however when I remove the cap, and the debris filter it was completely empty!? I'm beginning to wonder if this is the root of my whole brake bleed issue! While looking at the outside of the reservoir, there is a distinct line right about at the MAX line. It's not just a "stain" either. When you shake the reservoir the fluid line moves as if full. I may be near the end of my problems. Any advise or input?
Does the brake pedal drop to the floor easily after completely bleeding? Did person in car jab pedal to the floor every time? How was brake pedal feel before you bled the brakes? Checked for leaks? Loose fittings?
I have heard of later model cars destroying the master cylinder seals by depressing the brake pedal all the way to the floor when the system has not been bled or there is still air in the system. This can flip the seals backwards permanently inside the master cylinder and requires complete replacement. The master will no longer be able to create any pressure. Haven't heard of this on Evo masters but not saying it couldn't happen.
If you've kept the master reservoir full while you've started at RR caliper and bled all 8 lines until no air bubbles, all in order and still no success? You may have a much bigger problem on your hands.
+1 on the Motive Power Bleeder. Makes bleeding your brakes by yourself a 10 minute job



