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I'm one of the guys that doesn't believe in crazy spring rates. They might feel great at steady state but its almost impossible to make it work on bumps. 3hz is my hard limit. Higher than that is territory of open wheeled Aero cars on smooth tracks.
That's also what I was told. It feels super responsive because the car has less compliance, but you aren't getting much travel. My setup made the old Buttonwillow surface feel smooth as glass. Okay.. maybe not, but you get the idea LOL.
All that being said: if you want to run heavy springs, have at it. It's your build, brotha . I'm just repeating what was told to me by someone who knows WAAAAAAAAAY more than I do about suspension tuning. As such, I follow what he says.
I hear you, and springs are something which could always be changed. I could go down 2k and the valving should still be good. And from my research including what some of the track ****** and experts have said led me to my current spring selection. More spring, less bar.
But we are going off topic, the question was swaybar related.
Legitimate question: I've been reading all these threads and see everyone running such heavy springs. I'm on 9k/10k springs, stock front sway bar and RobiSpec rear. My car handles great. I can't imagine wanting to change anything.
What is the advantage to going with such a heavy spring, on a road course with DOT tires (I use R-S3s and RE-71s)?
Maybe most of the people i read about being on heavy springs are on slicks but haven't said so?
My "coach" said that heavier springs/SB will make the car "feel" like it's handling better and it may, just a bit, but at the expense of tire heat and wear. He knows i run DOT tires and prefer to only use 1-2 sets per year.
I guess if you are going for the best lap time and sparing no expense?
I know we've touched on this, and I have as well with minusprevious. I think the fsb I got (25.5 hollow) paired with my 8k/10k and WL rear on full soft would actually put our set ups pretty close - you're stiffer in the front, i'll have a stiffer fsb. I'm very interested to see how the car handles with the fsb. the other bonus to a stiffer fsb is less dynamic camber loss, if I understood correctly.
I don't consider 8/10k extreme or stiff by any means, and I am happy with my set up. If the FSB makes me a little pushy, I'll just bump the rear bar to the middle setting. Our diffs are clutch-type, they don't care about wheels in the air if it ever came to that (I doubt it would on the track, but does at autox).
as far as stiff springs soft bars vs. soft springs stiff bars, I think I am middle & middle lol
I know we've touched on this, and I have as well with minusprevious. I think the fsb I got (25.5 hollow) paired with my 8k/10k and WL rear on full soft would actually put our set ups pretty close - you're stiffer in the front, i'll have a stiffer fsb. I'm very interested to see how the car handles with the fsb. the other bonus to a stiffer fsb is less dynamic camber loss, if I understood correctly.
I don't consider 8/10k extreme or stiff by any means, and I am happy with my set up. If the FSB makes me a little pushy, I'll just bump the rear bar to the middle setting. Our diffs are clutch-type, they don't care about wheels in the air if it ever came to that (I doubt it would on the track, but does at autox).
as far as stiff springs soft bars vs. soft springs stiff bars, I think I am middle & middle lol
Our setups do sound similar and I agree, the car works great. I was actually told to run 8/9 but I only had 9/10 springs, so...
but yeah, we're off topic, sorry. I thought the FWB topic had been exhausted.
Im learning there are 2 schools of thought, so its not exhausted really. Depends on what the design is. I think Im going to put on the WL F/R SW and play with their adjustability. I dont know that they are warranted, but the stock FSB is not adjustable. I think I'd at least prefer to be able to tune it no matter the setup.
fair enough. I went with the tanabe for weight, and the fact that I don't think I need much bar at all, just a touch stiffer to reduce roll and introduce a little more understeer for my loose evo. though, my evo is not that loose anymore after running re71rs
One more semi-related question. When it comes to and links, I was advised I only needed one adjustable link per sway bar and that's how I have it (I made my own complete with super special, carbon fiber bushings LOL ). I was able to set preload where it needed to be without any problems. Anyone else?
Look at getting the Cusco or Ciro (if Rick ever put them to market) adjustable brackets for the front sway bar too. That will add a lot more flexibility in fine tuning. I'm running the Ciro ones with a Whiteline 26mm bar. I'm sure that's been mentioned somewhere in this thread already.
I think now that I've thought about it and read on the subject, upgrading the sway-bars to something adjustable is the best option. Understandably with higher rates I don't necessary need more bar in the front. I'll just experiment with different settings. However the upgrade also helps with the busing deflection which would be exacerbated by R-compounds and higher loads in general.
Granted this is a diff car but you can see the bushing movement(start at 4:23 if using embedded player):
May 9, 2016, 01:30 PM
. I'm just repeating what was told to me by someone who knows WAAAAAAAAAY more than I do about suspension tuning. As such, I follow what he says.
