honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

i'm thinking of install FSB over the winter. i should have done it last winter when the engine was out but i was building the car for TTA and didn't have the point. and i didn't know it would be that much work to install one, so though i could install one down the road.

i had a SmallFortuneRacing blade style FSB for my s2000. wonder if this style of FSB would make it easier to install. i know the cross tube is straight and not bent like oem one.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Correct

I totally would. You're right there anyway.

grillpt

iTrader: (24)

Stop thread stalking me... pervert!

Thanks, Smike. Gonna look into the Whiteline today.

EvoJoeRacing

iTrader: (2)

Agreed. Im running the TRE 12 Plate Max Lock and love it. The car steps out when needed. I also have a whiteline 24mm rear sway bar.

Next season i just picked up the whiteline front sway bar so ill let you know how it feels on the track.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

hater gonna hate

JDavenport

iTrader: (33)

I agree it is a good mod. My perception of how much improvement it makes is probably dulled because I also recently did the rear diff upgrade and NOTHING else I have done suspension-wise on the car has made close to the difference this did. The rear diff mod is truly the 'silver bullet' when it comes to getting the understeer out of these cars.

Do it while the subframe is down if you can afford it. With the subframe dropped it is probably a 15 minute job to make the change.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

IMO if you're going to go through the trouble of installing a FSB, then get an adjustable one. H&R makes one (which I run) and I believe Robispec also sells one.

l8r)

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Robi-spec bar doesn't have enough stiffness IMO. Its soft setting is softer than stock and stiff setting is only like 10% more than stock.

I just re-did the numbers for re-drilling the FSB and the stiffness change is actually on the order of 20% stiffer based on the best info I could find. If I remember, Ill measure the bar myself tonight and refine the numbers.

If you want to check it your self, based off Fred Puhns sway bar stiffness equation, the change in stiffness change is:

x = ( 1.875 * A^2 * B + A^3 )
( 1.875 * (A-L)^2 * B + (A-L)^3 )

For now this is assuming the angle of lever arm is negligible, which it actually isn't but I didn't have my bar to measure since I'm at work (Shhh )

So the variables,
A = Lever arm
B = Base length of the bar
L = Change in the center of the hole.

For 20% I used A = 9, B = 40, and L = 0.75.

Conversely, if you have a larger diameter bar with the same leg length then the equation for stiffness change is:

x = (d2)^4 / (d1)^4

Changing from a stock 24mm to the whiteline 26mm (again, assuming the leg length is the same which I have NOT verified), then the stiffness change is on the order of 37%.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Not really, getting the stock bar out is a massive pain and once you figure that one out the new one goes in pretty easily. That bar would make future changes much easier though.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

do it!


this ain't no honda, foo!

I have the whiteline FSB & Perrin RSB. Both are set to full soft. I didn't notice much of a difference after the FSB was installed. the rear bar made the most noticable difference IMO, but I agree with Nate that the TRE was the best mods to eliminate understeer all together.

I'm going back to OEM suspension over the winter and I'm going to try to use the adjustability of the sways to tune the roll stiffness of the car.

luckybull

iTrader: (7)

Robi doesnt sell his bar any longer.
he told me to get whiteline.
its a worthy upgrade.
you will kick your own *** if you dont do it now while the trans is out

Blue Evo 8

iTrader: (40)

Can the whiteline front be used with the Hotchkiss rear and perform well?

wjamyers

I'm thinking why bother with designing a setup around an open diff in the rear, only to have it change with the diff upgrade? I think it makes sense to plan around the Diff upgrade from the beginning or even get it first and then get the rest of the stuff based on that.

I'm going with the GTWorx must have basics. Bilstien HDs, GTWorx Springs, Rear Bar, Rear Trailing Arm Bushings and Bump Steer Kit. And a TRE Diff ASAP.

I'll see how that is before thinking about anything else.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

My upgrade path was as follows on my '03:
1. stock KYB suspension - understeering pig
2. TRE rear diff - car handled very neutral
3. Bilstein/Swift spec-r - car still neutral, much better ride than stock, less body roll
4. Perrin psrs, front LSD, front bar - less body roll, still neutral, turn in feels different with the added caster
5. Works rear bar - set to softest setting - noticeable increase in rear end response after initial turn in, can get power oversteer if I want

So based on my experience, I would caution the OP about running a larger rear bar, esp.on full stiff with an upgraded rear diff. You're going to have a tail happy car. I ended up getting a Works rear because I got a great deal on a used one with Perrin mounts and endlinks. If I were to go new I'd go with a Swift rear bar based on Smike's driving impressions.

l8r)

deeman101

iTrader: (34)

I'm with you. I have the shep rear diff and wavetrac front diff (along with new trans) going into my car soon. I'm not going to do the FSB even though the trans will be out. I'd rather feel out the difference these mods make before I "fine tune", as Smike says, the handling with sways.

Besides my car already oversteers and has gentle understeer with full throttle. I can already drift it (and spin out ) on a dry track with hankook RS3s. This is all road course though.