GTijoejoe

iTrader: (25)

Hey guys, running Rota's P45r's and I'm looking for aluminum hub-centric rings... get these plastic POS's off my car

My guy at tirerack was not confident matching a ring evo/rota combo so I'm looking for others experience/advice.

Don't make me pay a fortune for them

Thanks!

TSiAWD666

iTrader: (5)

You actually may want to use the composite ones so they don't seize to the hub so easily. I prefer the composite ones generally.

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

I too hate the plastic rings.

http://www.1010tires.com/store/p-938...-set-of-4.aspx

the evo hub is 67.1mm

GTijoejoe

iTrader: (25)

They don't sell rota's and they state that won't give refunds if they don't fit on wheels they don't sell so I can even ask 1010...

I need guarantee's

Bumpy!

jay777

iTrader: (8)

I have Enkei RPF1's, I run aluminum hubcentric rings because I've never had any luck with plastic ones.

I bought mine here:

http://www.tf-works.com/categories/W...centric-Rings/

bhmax

iTrader: (2)

http://www.speedelement.com/index.ph...emart&Itemid=1

Live4Redline

iTrader: (2)

The composite are easier to work with and don't seize up like the aluminum ones. Not to mention the composite is lighter and cheaper priced. Good ol eBay at $5 a set of four in any size you can imagine.

God knows how you can have issues with a ring you pop in the back of your wheel and never look at again. They don't fall out, they don't support anything, there just an alignment tool in addition to your more then likely acorn style lug nuts that also perform that very same task of helping you hold the wheel in place while you stumble to screw your lug nuts in place.

Oh well, good luck and enjoy.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

tf-works knows their wheels and their evos don't use some plastic crap that will melt or deform. Use a little anti-seize if you're worried they'll "seize up"

Live4Redline

iTrader: (2)

Ahh ok, so your having issues with melting... I've never had any issues with the rings on my track wheels melting but in addition I do always make sure I get a composite ring and not just a traditional plastic one. I would imagine there's a large difference in melting points of the two.

Sounds like a fun thing to test some time in the future with some spare hub rings I have and a temperature gun. Interesting...

Grimgrak

iTrader: (3)

I got mine from JMFAB

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

A) they're 30 bucks. if they don't fit, skip lunch for a day...
B) go measure your wheels if you want to be positive which ones to get
C) use the search function. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/6275154-post5.html

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

I've never seen a "composite" ring, only plastic and aluminum. Do you have a link? i've had plastic ones melt on both my street car and race car. They suck. I've never had an issue with the aluminum rings.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

The tf-works site has great prices if your rims have a 73 mm bore. 1010tires.com has a huge selection of aluminum rings for those that do not have a 73 mm bore, but they are a bit spendy. I found an RX8 sight that sells aluminum rings at a good price as well.

GTijoejoe

iTrader: (25)

A) the point is not to waste money no matter how 'cheap' you may think they are, that's just stupid...besides I already skip lunch
B) There is enough information from plenty of others for me to inaccurately measure my wheels. Measuring round holes is actually pretty difficult without a bore tool.
C) I didn't start using forums yesterday I already searched and couldn't find my "guarantee"

I didn't ask for much, if its too much for you to bother you should just skip to the next thread.

Thanks to everyone else

nollij

iTrader: (21)

I was looking into this a little while ago. If the wheel is lug-centric using the acorn-style lugs, what is the point of the hub-centric ring? I lift one side of the car at a time and tighten the lugs up in a star pattern several times over and then torque them down before the wheels hit the ground. I have never felt any oscillations or vibrations even up to ~140mph.