tanabe front swaybar
#62
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
I read that in the FSB thread - surprising, I'll take a look but I didn't notice anything that indicated it, so I guess it's a pretty smooth job they did there. hopefully I don't see the load you do, my car is pretty mild - can't imagine it breaking mid corner doing 80 or something though
#63
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
Question regarding this FSB - I've got a 25.4mm hollow bar on my Mini for the rear, and the fact that it's hollow makes it roughly as stiff as a 22mm solid.
Was wondering if the case was the same with this tanabe bar? I haven't seen any specs on how much stiffer it is, but it must be pretty darn close to the stock fsb since it's hollow...
Also, can someone let me know where exactly on the bar it connects to the car? I want to add some McMaster carr tape on it
Was wondering if the case was the same with this tanabe bar? I haven't seen any specs on how much stiffer it is, but it must be pretty darn close to the stock fsb since it's hollow...
Also, can someone let me know where exactly on the bar it connects to the car? I want to add some McMaster carr tape on it
Last edited by kyoo; Apr 6, 2016 at 07:12 AM.
#64
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Hollow bars completely depends on the ID. Just by diameter (ignoring leg change), for your example the ID would be,
(25.4^4-22^4)^(1/4)=20.65".
Basically, Do^4 - Di^4 = Deq^4 or Do^4 - Deq^4 = Do^4 (because algebra)
BUT, just looking at diameters is bad swaybar math. The leg length also has a big role (what you adjust in an adjustable bar), as well as the angle of the leg (does it go straight to from the bushing to the end link or come out then turn).
(25.4^4-22^4)^(1/4)=20.65".
Basically, Do^4 - Di^4 = Deq^4 or Do^4 - Deq^4 = Do^4 (because algebra)
BUT, just looking at diameters is bad swaybar math. The leg length also has a big role (what you adjust in an adjustable bar), as well as the angle of the leg (does it go straight to from the bushing to the end link or come out then turn).
#65
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Any update on the FSB difference?
Considering getting a Whiteline 26mm FSB while I do the clutch replacement.
MR Bilstein shocks / Robi spec springs / Super Pro bushings / RCK / Cusco adjustable sway bar mount
/ Rear trail arm bushing upgrade / 24mm RSB + mount bracket is only what I got,
Got H&R camber bolt to get -2.8 deg front camber / rear is -1.2 deg
Need to re-arrange my stock rear LSD plates in near future,
and ordered J-speed front fender brace.
After reading threads, seems like larger FSB is not good for tight corners / quick turn-in feel, but would benefit mid-high speed corer stability?
My local track is Inje Speedium, and it has quite a bit of altitude change (~130 ft), but mostly mid-high speed corners.
Hope to hear advice before ordering a whilteline FSB. Thanks!
Considering getting a Whiteline 26mm FSB while I do the clutch replacement.
MR Bilstein shocks / Robi spec springs / Super Pro bushings / RCK / Cusco adjustable sway bar mount
/ Rear trail arm bushing upgrade / 24mm RSB + mount bracket is only what I got,
Got H&R camber bolt to get -2.8 deg front camber / rear is -1.2 deg
Need to re-arrange my stock rear LSD plates in near future,
and ordered J-speed front fender brace.
After reading threads, seems like larger FSB is not good for tight corners / quick turn-in feel, but would benefit mid-high speed corer stability?
My local track is Inje Speedium, and it has quite a bit of altitude change (~130 ft), but mostly mid-high speed corners.
Hope to hear advice before ordering a whilteline FSB. Thanks!
#66
EvoM Staff Alumni
iTrader: (3)
Any update on the FSB difference?
Considering getting a Whiteline 26mm FSB while I do the clutch replacement.
MR Bilstein shocks / Robi spec springs / Super Pro bushings / RCK / Cusco adjustable sway bar mount
/ Rear trail arm bushing upgrade / 24mm RSB + mount bracket is only what I got,
Got H&R camber bolt to get -2.8 deg front camber / rear is -1.2 deg
Need to re-arrange my stock rear LSD plates in near future,
and ordered J-speed front fender brace.
After reading threads, seems like larger FSB is not good for tight corners / quick turn-in feel, but would benefit mid-high speed corer stability?
My local track is Inje Speedium, and it has quite a bit of altitude change (~130 ft), but mostly mid-high speed corners.
Hope to hear advice before ordering a whilteline FSB. Thanks!
Considering getting a Whiteline 26mm FSB while I do the clutch replacement.
MR Bilstein shocks / Robi spec springs / Super Pro bushings / RCK / Cusco adjustable sway bar mount
/ Rear trail arm bushing upgrade / 24mm RSB + mount bracket is only what I got,
Got H&R camber bolt to get -2.8 deg front camber / rear is -1.2 deg
Need to re-arrange my stock rear LSD plates in near future,
and ordered J-speed front fender brace.
After reading threads, seems like larger FSB is not good for tight corners / quick turn-in feel, but would benefit mid-high speed corer stability?
My local track is Inje Speedium, and it has quite a bit of altitude change (~130 ft), but mostly mid-high speed corners.
Hope to hear advice before ordering a whilteline FSB. Thanks!
What is the spring rate on the Robi springs? IMHO, you cant run both, a high rate suspension spring coupled w/a high rate FSB (its one or the other)
Most serious track guys choose to run just a high rate track spring w/the stock FSB w/adjustable endlinks.
Too much FSB rate coupled w/high spring rate, leads to severe understeer & the potential for lifting the inside front tire when cornering
#67
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for your reply.
I think it is about 20% higher rate + 1" drop for the front (although progressive),
and about same rate + 1" drop (w/ KYB shock, and maybe less than 1/4" drop w/ MR Bilstein) for the rear.
I don't think Robispec springs are "high rate" compared to most coilover setups.
I can still play a bit with Cusco adjustable sway bar bracket to 86% / 100% / 116% with the aftermarket FSB.
I think it is about 20% higher rate + 1" drop for the front (although progressive),
and about same rate + 1" drop (w/ KYB shock, and maybe less than 1/4" drop w/ MR Bilstein) for the rear.
I don't think Robispec springs are "high rate" compared to most coilover setups.
I can still play a bit with Cusco adjustable sway bar bracket to 86% / 100% / 116% with the aftermarket FSB.
#68
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
im bumping this - i'm considering going back to the stock FSB to counter some corner entry push I have on the car - did we ever determine how much stiffer is this than the stock FSB? If it's not much, I may just get ciro's fsb brackets that can go 15% softer on its soft setting. if I did either, what's the best way to help with the increased roll up front? add a few clicks of compression in the front shocks?
#69
EvoM Staff Alumni
iTrader: (3)
im bumping this - i'm considering going back to the stock FSB to counter some corner entry push I have on the car - did we ever determine how much stiffer is this than the stock FSB? If it's not much, I may just get ciro's fsb brackets that can go 15% softer on its soft setting. if I did either, what's the best way to help with the increased roll up front? add a few clicks of compression in the front shocks?
Just commenting on adding compression. From my understanding, a single adjustable coilover is mainly a rebound adjustment with a combined compression movement (very slight). The upper adjustment knob is mainly REBOUND
Need Dallas to comment on the rate difference
#70
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
im bumping this - i'm considering going back to the stock FSB to counter some corner entry push I have on the car - did we ever determine how much stiffer is this than the stock FSB? If it's not much, I may just get ciro's fsb brackets that can go 15% softer on its soft setting. if I did either, what's the best way to help with the increased roll up front? add a few clicks of compression in the front shocks?
#71
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
If you dont have FSB adjustable bracket, certainly get or make some. Its super useful on any bar to have that adjustment range. Also, the cusco brackets can be swapped left to right and right to left which will give you an extra soft setting. So you could effectively get about 70% bar rate from what you have now with that change to see if you should have less front bar.
As for rate, Ive measured (by dimension and by load/displacement) the rear Tanabe bar but not the front. Cant seem to find a rate or rate difference from stock online in my quick search.
As for rate, Ive measured (by dimension and by load/displacement) the rear Tanabe bar but not the front. Cant seem to find a rate or rate difference from stock online in my quick search.
#72
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
If you dont have FSB adjustable bracket, certainly get or make some. Its super useful on any bar to have that adjustment range. Also, the cusco brackets can be swapped left to right and right to left which will give you an extra soft setting. So you could effectively get about 70% bar rate from what you have now with that change to see if you should have less front bar.
As for rate, Ive measured (by dimension and by load/displacement) the rear Tanabe bar but not the front. Cant seem to find a rate or rate difference from stock online in my quick search.
As for rate, Ive measured (by dimension and by load/displacement) the rear Tanabe bar but not the front. Cant seem to find a rate or rate difference from stock online in my quick search.
i'm not sure what you mean by right to left and left to right
#73
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Yep, those. The brackets have a L and R stamped into it and 4 holes. 3 of the holes are meant for an 8/9 and shift over one set for the X. You can actually make use of that 4th hole as a low side adjustment point if you put the "R" stamped bracket on the left side of the car. It will certainly make more sense once you have it in the car though.
One bit of tip though, find some button head screws to replace the normal bracket bolts or the heads get in the way when putting the swaybar link nut on.
One bit of tip though, find some button head screws to replace the normal bracket bolts or the heads get in the way when putting the swaybar link nut on.
#74
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
Yep, those. The brackets have a L and R stamped into it and 4 holes. 3 of the holes are meant for an 8/9 and shift over one set for the X. You can actually make use of that 4th hole as a low side adjustment point if you put the "R" stamped bracket on the left side of the car. It will certainly make more sense once you have it in the car though.
One bit of tip though, find some button head screws to replace the normal bracket bolts or the heads get in the way when putting the swaybar link nut on.
One bit of tip though, find some button head screws to replace the normal bracket bolts or the heads get in the way when putting the swaybar link nut on.