aamoedo

iTrader: (2)

So I've done some searching on front end vibrations, and it seems like my situation is a combination of various instances of warped rotors that other users have had. Before I dump money into a new brake setup (pads and rotors), I'd like to get any input. The thread title pretty much says it all. Low speeds (<60 mph) there's no shake. Light braking above that, there's slight shake. No squeaks, no clunks, no rattles. No visible scoring on the rotors. Pads have about 50% life left. Did I just warp my front rotors? What front end suspension bolts should I check just in case to trouble shoot?

Thanks!

Current setup just in case:

Engine
Apexi World Sport exhaust
Titec O2 housing
HKS 3" Downpipe
AEM Intake
Blox torque mount
Power Enterprise timing belt
Cosworth M2 cams with Supertech springs and retainers
ARP head studs
FIC 1150cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Exedy twin disc clutch
AMS clutch line

Suspension
Apexi n1 coilovers
Perrin rear adjustable swaybar
Stoptech Rotors
Stoptech braided brake lines
Works blue pads

Exige90

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like rotor warp, to me!

In the five years I owned my Jeep before I got my Ralliart, I warped one or both rotors three times. They were the worst design I've ever heard of. This was usually accompanied by a pulse while stopping at lower speeds. You couldn't feel it in the pedal; only when you were slowing down it would feel like the brakes grabbed a little more at certain places on the rotor.

If they aren't too bad, you could look into having the rotors turned, to save some cash. Drawback is, it'll happen again. But it'll save you some cash now, and let you put some away for replacing them down the line.

galantman03

iTrader: (7)

or pad transfer

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Could be warped rotors but more than likely its pad transfer. I would try rebidding in the pads and see if that fixes your issue.

aamoedo

iTrader: (2)

I'll try re-bedding first. Only bummer is finding a nice clear road in San Francisco.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

it si pad transfer.....You only need about 45 mph and brake several time hard down to 10 mph then run wihout braking much for 10 minutes. Park in flat area overnight using handbrake.

It is almost impossible to warp an iron rotor. 99% of the time it is uneven pad transfer to the rotor that causes high spots and the shake. doing a 1 thousand skim cleans it up, but so does re-bedding or deglazing with fine grit paper.

Certain pads seem to be worse than others. Carbotech Bobcat and Panther are one of the bad ones, IMHO. RC and EBC are OK . Project Mu suck.

evozoom

iTrader: (1)

do not underestimate the need for the right torque on the lug nuts. I fell pray to this on the evo. Same situation as yours. Replaced rotors, eventually came back. Decided to torque them with a torques wrench. Found out i was really under torqued. "warping" gone.....