Synthetic PSRS Free and Easy
Nov 19, 2014, 08:41 PM
#1
Synthetic PSRS Free and Easy
I discovered this sort of by accident, and then refined the tuning through experimenting a long time ago, used it for about 40k miles but now I have the perrin bushings installed.
My method is easy, it only involves changing some torque settings in the suspension. And if you don't like it, you can easily revert back to your previous settings. It's fairly safe and reliable, when I took off the control arms at 105kmiles they were still fine and I was using it since like 66k miles.
Warning: You have to have a medium or small torque wrench for the swaybar endlinks, that's how I stumbled upon this, I didn't have the right torque wrench at the time and found out what happens if you change the torque settings.
Lift the car.
Okay so the front swaybar endlinks where it connect to the control arm there are 2 bolts.
The INNER bolt(towards the center of car), you torque to either 25(stock) or 24 ft lbs (24ft lbs will give you greater effect).
The OUTER bolt(towards the wheels), you torque to either 24ft lbs if you used 25 ft lb or you torque to 23ft lbs if you used 24ft lbs.
Basically you always want the inner bolt slightly tighter than the outer bolt(it will make things worse the other way around), and you don't want to tighten higher than OEM spec, 23ft lbs is the lowest you want to go, or the endlinks might start clicking, if they click on hard turns then use a higher torque setting, but they shouldn't click at all 23ft lbs should actually be within spec I believe, just the lowest spec.
Now you just need to tighten the strut tower bolts(the 3 on top) to 40ft lbs. I think stock was 32 or 35? This is to balance out loosening the endlinks.....
Ok you are done! Simple.
You will gain ~5degrees of more turn in before your front wheels lose grip, the dynamics of the car will change while turning in a similar manner to the psrs, just try it and feel it. It's not as extreme as changing the bushings, but if you can't afford it or don't like the solid bushings, this is a nice cheap free substitute that's better than stock in my opinion.
My method is easy, it only involves changing some torque settings in the suspension. And if you don't like it, you can easily revert back to your previous settings. It's fairly safe and reliable, when I took off the control arms at 105kmiles they were still fine and I was using it since like 66k miles.
Warning: You have to have a medium or small torque wrench for the swaybar endlinks, that's how I stumbled upon this, I didn't have the right torque wrench at the time and found out what happens if you change the torque settings.
Lift the car.
Okay so the front swaybar endlinks where it connect to the control arm there are 2 bolts.
The INNER bolt(towards the center of car), you torque to either 25(stock) or 24 ft lbs (24ft lbs will give you greater effect).
The OUTER bolt(towards the wheels), you torque to either 24ft lbs if you used 25 ft lb or you torque to 23ft lbs if you used 24ft lbs.
Basically you always want the inner bolt slightly tighter than the outer bolt(it will make things worse the other way around), and you don't want to tighten higher than OEM spec, 23ft lbs is the lowest you want to go, or the endlinks might start clicking, if they click on hard turns then use a higher torque setting, but they shouldn't click at all 23ft lbs should actually be within spec I believe, just the lowest spec.
Now you just need to tighten the strut tower bolts(the 3 on top) to 40ft lbs. I think stock was 32 or 35? This is to balance out loosening the endlinks.....
Ok you are done! Simple.
You will gain ~5degrees of more turn in before your front wheels lose grip, the dynamics of the car will change while turning in a similar manner to the psrs, just try it and feel it. It's not as extreme as changing the bushings, but if you can't afford it or don't like the solid bushings, this is a nice cheap free substitute that's better than stock in my opinion.
Nov 20, 2014, 08:59 AM
#2
EvoM Guru
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Can I also gain more power by slightly over-tightening and under-tightening certain head bolts?
Nov 20, 2014, 01:38 PM
#7
This makes perfect sense. I tightened the screws on the plate that covers the fuel pump assembly and got better gas mileage and flight attendants tighten the caps on water bottles to prevent global warming. I don't see whats so hard to grasp about varied torque settings on fixed position bolts that don't impact suspension geometry adding castor. Come on people! Grab your mismatched torque wrenches and get to work!
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Nov 20, 2014, 02:06 PM
#9
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Nov 20, 2014, 02:12 PM
#10
Just wait till someone actually tries it. I don't see what you have to lose by trying it, since you can revert back quite easily. Some people are just afraid to deviate from the norm. Only problem is that the evo normally understeers.
Nov 20, 2014, 02:15 PM
#11
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Yeah dude!
I also adjusted the volume on my stereo to help create a reverb effect which helps me be more aerodynamic! Seriously you guys have to try it you'll notice the car goes way faster.
I also adjusted the volume on my stereo to help create a reverb effect which helps me be more aerodynamic! Seriously you guys have to try it you'll notice the car goes way faster.
Nov 20, 2014, 02:18 PM
#12
Alright kids, have fun with your understeering crap evo then. You deserve it.
In fact just to prove me wrong, you should do the opposite of what I said. Torque the OUTER bolt higher, yea then you'll have even MORE understeer that'll put a smile on your face.
Nov 20, 2014, 02:22 PM
#13
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No I'm dead serious! I've tried it under the same conditions. 1st with music turned way up, and the 2nd run right after. And the 2nd run was a little bit slower than the 1st
Nov 20, 2014, 02:25 PM
#14
I'm not against trying new things; that's how the world evolves and how we have to got to where we are today.
However, like I stated prior I am having a hard time grasping how this would do anything. Maybe you are on to something? But without explaining the thought process behind it I dont see how this would do anything.
Also, you are talking about a difference in torque setting of 1 ft/lb. All tq wrenches have some sort of margin of error so its quite ridiculous to think you can tq things that specifically.
However, like I stated prior I am having a hard time grasping how this would do anything. Maybe you are on to something? But without explaining the thought process behind it I dont see how this would do anything.
Also, you are talking about a difference in torque setting of 1 ft/lb. All tq wrenches have some sort of margin of error so its quite ridiculous to think you can tq things that specifically.
Nov 20, 2014, 02:48 PM
#15
Evolved Member
