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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 08:49 PM
  #16  
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+1 on brake pad deposits. Modern rotors won't warp under normal circumstances. Should cost $30-50 to clean up all four. No need to have them turned, just have the deposits cleaned. Properly bed the pads and you are good.
Hawks probably have a specific bed-in procedure.
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Old Nov 18, 2015 | 06:59 AM
  #17  
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Ds2500 with copper ease for a good street track pad
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Old Nov 22, 2015 | 08:42 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Jonno99
Just get some generic blanks, if your not tracking
Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
Centric rotors are what we use for the purpose you noted
centric high carbon have been my go to for years now for both street and track. i easily get 4-5 track days out of them on my evo and they are like 100 bucks for a pair of fronts on rockauto.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=453&jpid=18
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Old Nov 22, 2015 | 05:53 PM
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Ran a dial meter on the rotors today. Driver side has a low spot about 0.010 and passenger side has a low spot of 0.012.

Might try to have them turned, put on the Centrics in the meantime, and the putting them back on the car for the winter.

Bad vibration at 30-40mph, slight vibration otherwise. And by bad, I mean torque steer ain't **** compared to this...

Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
centric high carbon have been my go to for years now for both street and track. i easily get 4-5 track days out of them on my evo and they are like 100 bucks for a pair of fronts on rockauto.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=453&jpid=18
Got them off Tire Rack, $132/pair.
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #20  
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wrong thread.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 01:46 PM
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So, are you saying the problem persists after installation of new rotors?
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 01:48 PM
  #22  
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The issues is the pads leaving uneven deposits. Rotors don't warp.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by barneyb
So, are you saying the problem persists after installation of new rotors?
if so, it's the pads, not the rotors.
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 07:57 AM
  #24  
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Replaced the rotors on Thursday with Centric high-carbon blanks. They feel great.

Now I'm getting a little bit of squealing under 10mph at light braking pressure (i.e when I'm coming up to a red light). I wiped the rotors down with brake cleaner before installing and reinstalled the pads and shims just the way they came out.

Could it just be the brake in period on the rotors?
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 08:57 AM
  #25  
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There are many factors that play into squeal

Did you properly bed the brakes in?
Are you running the OEM shims in the proper direction?
Did you apply anti squeal to the brake pins? (BTW, I stopped running that stuff. I run my brakes pins & back of pads clean & dry)
Is the squeal only when the brakes are cold?

A bit of cold squeal is OK in my book
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 01:46 PM
  #26  
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hawk pads need proper bedding. id also put some anti-squeal on the backs of the pads/shims. that is why i used auto parts pads for daily driving LOL.

unless you do some serious mounting driving or autox, that is. they are overkill for daily duties.
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 05:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
There are many factors that play into squeal

Did you properly bed the brakes in?
Are you running the OEM shims in the proper direction?
Did you apply anti squeal to the brake pins? (BTW, I stopped running that stuff. I run my brakes pins & back of pads clean & dry)
Is the squeal only when the brakes are cold?

A bit of cold squeal is OK in my book
Yes (I think).
Reistalled the shims that were already on the pads. I only changed the front rotors.
There was what looked like some anti-sieze on the back of the pads/shims. Did not apply anti-squeal.
I'm going to say no. Only happens with light to medium braking pressure under 5-10mph.

Originally Posted by kaj
hawk pads need proper bedding. id also put some anti-squeal on the backs of the pads/shims. that is why i used auto parts pads for daily driving LOL.

unless you do some serious mounting driving or autox, that is. they are overkill for daily duties.
I did a couple 60mph-10mph medium braking, drove for a little to let them cool, and then a couple 80mph-10mph and let them cool. Never left my foot on the brakes during this process (i.e. 80 to 0mph and then sitting at a red light with the brake pedal engaged).

The Hawks are what came on the car and the PO says they're like new. He had another set of pads that he thought were worn out but after replacing to the Hawks realized that it was the rotors. I will have to dig through the box and see what brand they are.


If it's just the Hawks that are known to be squeaky I can deal with that...but if it's something else I'd like to get it figured out.
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 08:48 AM
  #28  
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depending on which version Hawks they are, i could see them being the culprit. once you go to a regular pad, you won't have to deal with that any more.
i used to use Hawk DTC-60s (i don't daily the car much) and am now on CL RC5s. you wanna talk about noise? mine screeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaam LOL.
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 10:46 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kaj
depending on which version Hawks they are, i could see them being the culprit. once you go to a regular pad, you won't have to deal with that any more.
i used to use Hawk DTC-60s (i don't daily the car much) and am now on CL RC5s. you wanna talk about noise? mine screeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaam LOL.
LOL


I ran the DTC-60's for like a month because I was to lazy to remove them, and damn they are pretty loud .


Track == DTC-60
Daily == Stoptech Street performance
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 12:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TheBoz
LOL


I ran the DTC-60's for like a month because I was to lazy to remove them, and damn they are pretty loud .


Track == DTC-60
Daily == Stoptech Street performance
same here. lazy LOL. i drive my around maybe once or twice between track days, so i don't worry about it much. the CL's make even more noise than the Hawks haha.

here's a vid after letting some DDing build up pad deposits. after an AX event, they got much quieter.


Last edited by kaj; Nov 30, 2015 at 12:32 PM.
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