Michaelk

Yo dawgz, whaddup!! Ahem, sorry..... I gotz to get into dis lingo shiat here in the US of A Anyway, this is about Movit, AP, CTF, Tecno, Godspeed etc....

AdvEvo

if you think normal

it s not the brembo caliper wich gives the problem it has enough power to push the pads against the discs

so why throw money away on a new caliper you already have a caliper

so fix it with other discs and pads

the standard brembo caliper can push the pads just as hard against the disc as ap 4pots and movit calipers

only an ap and a movit setup runs cooler

make some nice cooling hoses to brakes and an other problem solved.
if you can find discs which can stand the heat why border for new calipers

discs which can stand the heat are

CTF discs 2 piece
Godspeedbrakediscs 2 piece
tecno2 one piece discs works only with smaller pads.

youre on scoobymike

andre

Michaelk

I think you're right Andre, cause the Brembo pad should really be up to the job. Change the hoses to steel braided one's, new brake fluid, new discs, pads and that should do the job. If the pads change color, I think it's more down to the paint not being up to the job. A bigger system will still give you bigger safety margins, though.
What do you mean with running smaller pads on the Tecno discs? Do they need to be cut down or are the DS3000 just smaller?

KK

iTrader: (4)

If your generating a lot of heat, but not overheating the pad, then I don't see the need for a big brake kit. Type-Rs have problems with the dust seals on the calipers burning up from high heat after a track day or race, but with race pads they'll bite HARD. Other than that, change brake fluid (I like Motul 600)often and rotor wear tends to go with the territory. I guess we're lucky though... new brembo blanks cost around $90 shipped for the pair Does anyone make a brake duct kit for the Evo?

Mark

KK

iTrader: (4)

Does the caliper just change color only or do the seals and other parts disintegrate? On my R the seals will be gone after heavy usage and you have to rebuild them. We usually change fluid after every event or even after the first day. What fluid do you guys use? In the US, nothing really beats Motul 600, but it needs to be changed often, which is a pain when you run a lot of events.

GBP 300 for brake ducts! That is a lot. Maybe scoobymike would be interested in selling his custom kit

Mark

Blade

I have the PE front ducts, which are good, but have now had them made even larger, and have REAR brake ducts too!

Oh yes, joy!

scoobymike

Yes we did make our own brake ducts. Every bit you can cool down the discs and callipers is very welcome. Especially driving on thight, twisty backroads like here in Switzerland (or Monaco) where the brakes don't have much chance to cool down between the corners as the straights are short (sometimes you don't even go above second gear as hairpin follows hairpin!). I even had ducts directly fitted on the calliper (like seen in F1) but now as Movit callipers are different from the standard ones they don't fit anymore. With the Movit callipers you anyway have more air going through the calliper itself and onto the disc due to different construction and mounting position of the disc (more inwards). Until now no problems not even in the wet.
Currently I use Pagid RS14 at the rear as the standard pads have problems in keeping up with the uprated front. In spring I'll fit also a 4 pot monobloc kit at the rear with cross-drilled discs. This will be the best setup sensible money can buy.

I've no intention to sell those ducts on a big scale. They're handmade with sheets of alloy and a proper sealing. The construction is made in that way when the car is standing (springs compressed) that the outlet of the ducts have the same height as the callipers. So the fitted callipers ducts were feed with cool air. As the channels go upwards it's more difficult for water coming in.

Cheers

Mike

AdvEvo

tuesday i went to the track

with my ds3000 pads and tecno2 discs

this is what happend

after braking hard at the end of straight i had no warping
but on the next corner i had vibration a little

but when i drove on the warping was gone again
the next lap exactly the same

so after braking hard on the end of straight there is so much heat in the discs then they give a little vibration in the next corner but after cooling down a bit no problems

i have cooling ducts already but it isnt enough on standard discs

the only thing now to do is run pads which does not generate a large amount of heat.

opinions are welcome

RA29

Is it possible to use water injection to cool off the brakes?

But if they are that hot, maybe the water will warp the discs.

Michaelk

Andre, that sounds a little dodgy to me.... What do you think? Godspeed discs or Tecno, which are better??

AdvEvo

michael

for now the godspeeds are the best.

i want to test the DBA discs from australia too
http://www.dba.com.au/contents04.htm

Or these
http://www.pdcastings.co.uk/

Claudius

ferodo are the most extreme pads now

Ferodo ds3000 frict. coef 0.62
Ferodo ds3000 plus frict. coef 0.68

order nr. FCP 1334 ds 3000 or ds3000 plus

i tested pagid rs 14 and carbon metallic 97
but i like the ferodo better.

they have flat braking curve at high temps they brake just as good as the starting temp of 100 degrees.

but the downside is youre discs wear out faster.

but with these pads you don t need an aftermarket brake set for more braking power

i can lock up at 220 km after 20 laps of hard driving on the track
that says enough

now i have to find "cheap" one piece discs which can handle the heat.


andre