OEM AMP Install Help.
 

http://www3.telus.net/public/sgausdal/Diagram.jpg

Based on this diagram I need some help with installing the stock OEM AMP.
I need to know what wires to run from the AMP harness to the Headunit wire/harness?

What wire goes to the CAN BUS(I understand what the canbus does) but how do I hook up the canbus wire to the CANBUS?
I'm new to car audio so not 100% sure.

I only want the OEM AMP installed to work with the OEM Subwoofer.
Audio Evo X file stats there is a "Factory Amp Turn-on pink or blue + radio, white 18 pin plug, pin 17 or 7" is that the canbus built into the headunit to control the AMP?

What wires give the high low sound to go to the Subwoofer?

I found most the information I need on the (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...d-oem-amp.html) post.

I have Lancer GSR Evolution X 2010.
The wiring for the subwoofer was in the boot but the amplifier plugs under the passenger seat was missing.
Only other option I have is to replace the wiring floor loom. (Massive job) But not to pricey to get.

I also have a MMCS on the way to install and I have all the dash plugs for that to drop it straight in.

Any assistance you get give will be much appreciated.

i found that diagram is not always accurate.

if all you want is the OEM subwoofer to work, only connect the red wires, black wires, and subwoofer speaker leads. For amp turn on, use a trailer light tester to determine which wire has switched power to it, or, run a new turn on lead from the fuse box/cig lighter. It carries almost no current, it's just a switch.

Cap off the rest of the wires.

Remember, the factory sub is a dual voice coil, so you do need to run all 4 wires.

ProTip: use a AA battery to tracer speakerwires. If you aren't sure which wire goes to which speaker, just put one wire on each side of a AA battery and listen for static. The battery will send a low voltage through the wire and make the attached speaker buzz.

Thanks for getting back to me Ikt.

4 wires from the amp to the subwoofer power and send signal for the base is that correct?
But what (Wires) sends the amp the signal from the HU for the base sound?
Red wires are for power and black ones are for ground?
Also could you post a more accurate picture diagram?

The rest of the speakers in are stock so they are powered by the HU.
Do you know where the 3 red wires need to be run too?
Do the Black ones just need to be grounded?

I got cut off lead OEM plug thats goes straight into the sub with the wire colors Blue Yellow Green and White. Which if I'm not wrong go straight from the oem amp harness in the diagram to the sub. which super easy to do.

Is there a certain type of wire I need to use to run the wiring?

Which wire is for the turn on for the AMP? is the blue one or the brown or pink one.

Noob question but what does this mean exactly. "Cap off the rest of the wires."

I'm going to number your quote for my reply. Honestly, I think you're in over your head here and doing this the hard way. I don't understand what your goal is here…if you want an upgraded stereo, this is not the best way to do it. Okay, numbered order:

1. No. No input runs to the sub. The sub requires 4 speaker wires, it is a dual voice coil subwoofer, meaning it has 2 positive and 2 negative leads to it. Nothing else connects to the sub.

2. not sure, it's not a standard signal. Wire colors change over time and markets (you are AUS, might not be the same as US)

3. yes

4. I don't have one, my car is a US market 2013 MR.

5. Nope-MMCS does not have power output. It must be connected to an external amplifier to produce sound.

6. Connected to a constant 12v source

7. They should be grounded to the chassis

8. those are 4 speaker wires

9. as long as it's close to same size, doesn't matter

10. don't know. hook a test light to it. Whichever one lights up when the car stereo is on is the correct one.

11. Any speaker wire leads not connected to a speaker should have something crimped over them so that they don't hit metal and short the amp out.


Okay-my turn to ask questions….I think you're waaaay overcomplicating this. Also, forget the words "CAN BUS", you don't need anything about it.

1. Did your vehicle come with the Rockford system from the factory?

if "yes", then proceed with the installation

if "no", then throw that amp away, forget the harness crap, and just buy a $100, five channel amp and a $30 amp install kit and save yourself a GIGANTIC headache.

2. What is your ultimate goal? Is it to install the factory MMCS into a non-MMCS equipped GSR? If so…I'd advise you to put that entire kit back on eBay. You are getting into an absolute mess that is something even I would hesitate to do. Also, the Rockford stuff that comes in the Evo is pretty low end compared to aftermarket. The stock amp is equivalent to a $40 Walmart amp. That's not bad per se, just know what you're getting.

3. If your goal is to add bluetooth, iPod control, satnav and touchscreen to your GSR, then buy an aftermarket deck, sub amp, sub, run new wires and call it a day.


Here's a quick primer on standard/aftermarket car audio wiring vs. OEM wiring and why you should just do a complete rewire with aftermarket stuff.

Power:
Standard- red is 12v+, yellow is 12v switched/ACC, black is ground. blue is amp turn on.

OEM- either red or yellow might be 12v constant. 12v ACC might be yellow, but sometimes red. Could be blue or brown too. Maybe even green.

Speaker leads:
Standard: grey/white and purple/green. Those are L/R, front, and L/R rear. Period.

OEM: never know. Usually it's yellow and green…but can change. Sometimes it's yellow and green but the left and right are the same color so you don't know which goes where, or front left has the same color as rear right so it's like a stereo AND a puzzle.

Subwoofer:
standard: one or two speaker wires, 4ohms usually.

OEM: 4 leads, but it's dual 2ohm speakers. This lets it draw more power, but at a lower quality. it's also very non-standard and will mess up most amps.

Door speakers/sub/amp
standard: front, back, left and right. Each speaker connects to a crossover, and the crossover connects to the amp. Done.

OEM: oh my god. Okay, so it's a weird, Chinese, Rockford amp that has 8 channels. Each channel has a non-adjustable crossover into it. Instead of driving a pair of speakers per channel as usual, it drives only one single speaker per channel. So 8 channels power 7 speakers…one per speaker, except for the sub, which is 2 per speaker. These lead to non-standard, 2ohm speakers. If you have the non-OEM speakers and hook the OEM rockford amp to it, it won't be loud enough. If you hook the OEM RF speakers to an aftermarket amp, it will be too low of resistance, have no crossover, overheat and cause problems. They claim a power of 700 watts, but it's really closer to 200w.

Wiring
Standard: all the system needs is 12v constant, 12v switched, ground, and amp turn on. Done!
OEM: 3 six foot long harnesses with a million different colors that change between production models/suppliers/intended market. It offers no advantage unless you are a car building robot in a Mits factory. Otherwise, abort this idea.

I have to admit, I really like ikt response. It's very informative. I am still working on replacing my stock Rockford to Aftermarket ones.

If I am not too lazy about it, I will post some pictures and explain the headache I went through to get them all working. That way, you may find some insight from what you are trying to do MarkEvoX. Here is the list of items that are installed or in the process of...

Alpine PDX-V9
Infinity 60.11cs (front)
Alpine SPR-60 (rear)
Clarion NX404
Clarion CC510 (backup camera)
Clarion CAU001 (backup cam license plate frame)
Scosche Revopak4 (Amp wiring kit)
15' RCA cables x2
Dynamat Extreme

I have also bought Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-10 subwoofer, and it did not fit into the stock sub enclosure. In fact I have totally destroyed the sub trying to trim it to fit. I may just keep the stock sub, as it seems to be good enough for me with wiring them in series. Otherwise, I may try MTX Audio FPR12-04 next.