AMS Tune with boltons
Unfortunately cars are not legos.
Putting part A on Car B is most likely always going to result in a horsepower increase of C...
However, all cars are not created equal. Some have chosen to break down vehicles in this manner. Which does make some sense when in relation to the factory tune which is the same for ALL cars.
25% of cars horsepower output will be lower than expected
50% of cars horsepower output will be about what is expected
25% of cars horsepower output will be higher than expected.
When designing an ECU calibration which can be used on all of these cars, it is easy to see why there is so much head room left in a 'tune' from the factory. Although some of their methods are questionable, have you ever heard of an engine failure due to a stock tune on a Mitsubishi?
Given that we arent all starting with the same cars, it is easy to see how the horsepower numbers can be different.
There is no 'calibration' for a dynojet. There are only correction factors, such as standard, SAE, uncorrected, etc. No one pays attention to these either. Changing the correction factor on any dyno will take the uncorrected number, and correct it using formulas for weather related conditions. Changing the correction factor can result in anywhere from no change to a 30hp swing.
Add this to the fact that people do mess with their dynos in order to read the numbers that they think the car should make, and I can see how its easy to be confused. As I have said, and will continue to say... Trying to compare any numbers from one dyno to another especially in different geographic locations is completely useless and will cause more confusion than anything else. It is much more productive to focus on the before/after dyno graphs and examine the gains on each particular car.
Putting part A on Car B is most likely always going to result in a horsepower increase of C...
However, all cars are not created equal. Some have chosen to break down vehicles in this manner. Which does make some sense when in relation to the factory tune which is the same for ALL cars.
25% of cars horsepower output will be lower than expected
50% of cars horsepower output will be about what is expected
25% of cars horsepower output will be higher than expected.
When designing an ECU calibration which can be used on all of these cars, it is easy to see why there is so much head room left in a 'tune' from the factory. Although some of their methods are questionable, have you ever heard of an engine failure due to a stock tune on a Mitsubishi?
Given that we arent all starting with the same cars, it is easy to see how the horsepower numbers can be different.
There is no 'calibration' for a dynojet. There are only correction factors, such as standard, SAE, uncorrected, etc. No one pays attention to these either. Changing the correction factor on any dyno will take the uncorrected number, and correct it using formulas for weather related conditions. Changing the correction factor can result in anywhere from no change to a 30hp swing.
Add this to the fact that people do mess with their dynos in order to read the numbers that they think the car should make, and I can see how its easy to be confused. As I have said, and will continue to say... Trying to compare any numbers from one dyno to another especially in different geographic locations is completely useless and will cause more confusion than anything else. It is much more productive to focus on the before/after dyno graphs and examine the gains on each particular car.
Later, Ken
AMS intake&Cat back(single)
Iveytune
Good explanation. Dynojets use a user-added elevation in thier correction as opposed to it's own Barometric Pressure Sensor. That's the one "calibration" that needs to be inserted properly and will affect the corrected figure.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
From: In the Middle of Everywhere
Thanks for the clarification Chris. I posted this to show the improvement in the top end as compared to the stock tune. Night and Day. The car feels great and seems to impress me every time I mash the right most pedal to the floor in order to inject the maximum amount of premium grade $4+ a gallon fuel into my 4B11
I seem to feel much better about spending that much on gas when it performs this well.
Thanks for the Tune Chris!
I seem to feel much better about spending that much on gas when it performs this well.
Thanks for the Tune Chris!
Unfortunately cars are not legos.
Putting part A on Car B is most likely always going to result in a horsepower increase of C...
However, all cars are not created equal. Some have chosen to break down vehicles in this manner. Which does make some sense when in relation to the factory tune which is the same for ALL cars.
25% of cars horsepower output will be lower than expected
50% of cars horsepower output will be about what is expected
25% of cars horsepower output will be higher than expected.
When designing an ECU calibration which can be used on all of these cars, it is easy to see why there is so much head room left in a 'tune' from the factory. Although some of their methods are questionable, have you ever heard of an engine failure due to a stock tune on a Mitsubishi?
Given that we arent all starting with the same cars, it is easy to see how the horsepower numbers can be different.
There is no 'calibration' for a dynojet. There are only correction factors, such as standard, SAE, uncorrected, etc. No one pays attention to these either. Changing the correction factor on any dyno will take the uncorrected number, and correct it using formulas for weather related conditions. Changing the correction factor can result in anywhere from no change to a 30hp swing.
Add this to the fact that people do mess with their dynos in order to read the numbers that they think the car should make, and I can see how its easy to be confused. As I have said, and will continue to say... Trying to compare any numbers from one dyno to another especially in different geographic locations is completely useless and will cause more confusion than anything else. It is much more productive to focus on the before/after dyno graphs and examine the gains on each particular car.
Putting part A on Car B is most likely always going to result in a horsepower increase of C...
However, all cars are not created equal. Some have chosen to break down vehicles in this manner. Which does make some sense when in relation to the factory tune which is the same for ALL cars.
25% of cars horsepower output will be lower than expected
50% of cars horsepower output will be about what is expected
25% of cars horsepower output will be higher than expected.
When designing an ECU calibration which can be used on all of these cars, it is easy to see why there is so much head room left in a 'tune' from the factory. Although some of their methods are questionable, have you ever heard of an engine failure due to a stock tune on a Mitsubishi?
Given that we arent all starting with the same cars, it is easy to see how the horsepower numbers can be different.
There is no 'calibration' for a dynojet. There are only correction factors, such as standard, SAE, uncorrected, etc. No one pays attention to these either. Changing the correction factor on any dyno will take the uncorrected number, and correct it using formulas for weather related conditions. Changing the correction factor can result in anywhere from no change to a 30hp swing.
Add this to the fact that people do mess with their dynos in order to read the numbers that they think the car should make, and I can see how its easy to be confused. As I have said, and will continue to say... Trying to compare any numbers from one dyno to another especially in different geographic locations is completely useless and will cause more confusion than anything else. It is much more productive to focus on the before/after dyno graphs and examine the gains on each particular car.
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