COBB AP Stage 1 + AEM + 91
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From: Canada
COBB AP Stage 1 + AEM + 91
Mods:
- AEM Air Intake
- HKS HighPower Exhaust
- Ultimate Racing Test Pipe
I just got the COBB AP today and installed it later this evening, Right away after installing i could hear the spooling right starting from 1000 RPM.
I'm still in shocked that to see how ****ed up and crappy the stuck tune is. She just became alive. It was an EVO but now turned to real MONSTER.
At higher RPM it was over boosting, Tomorrow I'll change it to new over boost map from COBB.
I think I'm going to run valet mode map later since i can't stop myself to not trying out the new power!
cant wait to get mine... cant decide if i should get it before my exhaust. All i have is cold air. 
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Evolving Member
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From: Canada
tune is CRAP, Even if you don't have mod you will notice smoother run, Better fuel mileage and most important of all is the futures that AP hasI was so stupid that i didn't get AP for first mode after buying the car
Last edited by Hassan!; Feb 21, 2010 at 07:02 AM.
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Run the overboost map today, The result was less boost (25 psi at red line) and no knock (0.9) no over boosting and run smooth.Probably cold weather temperature ( -20C) causing over boost. Summer I'll changed it back to none overboost map or stage 2 
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You welcome mate.
Dude this thing is too fast, I don't get it why people not satisfied already with basic bolts on and tune.
Mostly i have to learn the handling then buy HKS GT turbo maybe after 2 years? Who knows might upgrade it to ZR1 or GTR.
Dude this thing is too fast, I don't get it why people not satisfied already with basic bolts on and tune.
Mostly i have to learn the handling then buy HKS GT turbo maybe after 2 years? Who knows might upgrade it to ZR1 or GTR.
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Evolving Member
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Hey Bryan you must be right because i was reading the boost from AP boost pressure which record the highest rank number for boost, My bad.
Tomorrow ill check it again and see how much boost at red line i get.
Tomorrow ill check it again and see how much boost at red line i get.
The above dyno graph* demonstrates the relative pressure (boost) curve that should be
measured from the intake manifold. The RPM reference can be found on the X-axis in
blue numbers; the Relative Pressure (Boost) reference can be found on the Y-axis in
green numbers. If your boost curve is not within +/- .8psi from this calibration,
while running the Stage1+AEM 91 GSRv104 calibration on your 2008 Mitsubishi EVO X
GSR, then you may need to have the vehicle analyzed by a professional tuning
facility. Target peak boost pressure is ~23.5psi +/- 0.8psi depending on the
vehicle's hardware and testing conditions. Boost will likely taper to ~16psi by 7500
RPM redline to increase reliability & longevity. Boost cut at sea level is increased
to ~25psi.
measured from the intake manifold. The RPM reference can be found on the X-axis in
blue numbers; the Relative Pressure (Boost) reference can be found on the Y-axis in
green numbers. If your boost curve is not within +/- .8psi from this calibration,
while running the Stage1+AEM 91 GSRv104 calibration on your 2008 Mitsubishi EVO X
GSR, then you may need to have the vehicle analyzed by a professional tuning
facility. Target peak boost pressure is ~23.5psi +/- 0.8psi depending on the
vehicle's hardware and testing conditions. Boost will likely taper to ~16psi by 7500
RPM redline to increase reliability & longevity. Boost cut at sea level is increased
to ~25psi.
Premade tunes suck no matter how you look at it. Should have gone with a custom tune, would have been cheaper and you would have gotten more out of your car and it would probably have been safer too.
But if you're happy, then the money was well spent anyway
Congrats!
But if you're happy, then the money was well spent anyway
Congrats!
A custom tune will definitely get you more power, but in most cases it is probably tuned near the limits of what your car can make, so there is a lot less "padding" so to speak to allow for any fluctuations.
Not to mention the other benefits of a Cobb - all the logging, simulated 0-60, 1/4 miles, dyno, etc. as well as the ability to easily go back to the stock map if you need to take it to the dealer. Plus you can resell it if youe ver get rid of the car.
Last edited by koach; Feb 18, 2010 at 09:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
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From: Canada
Then again I'll have custom tuned map beside my other maps on AP
If i wanted cheap parts for my car, I wouldn't buy an evo and try something else like civic!
I would say a Cobb tune is safer, because they are more conservative to allow for all the variations in altitude, temperature, etc. around the country, as well as the individual car differences.
A custom tune will definitely get you more power, but in most cases it is probably tuned near the limits of what your car can make, so there is a lot less "padding" so to speak to allow for any fluctuations.
Not to mention the other benefits of a Cobb - all the logging, simulated 0-60, 1/4 miles, dyno, etc. as well as the ability to easily go back to the stock map if you need to take it to the dealer. Plus you can resell it if you ver get rid of the car.
A custom tune will definitely get you more power, but in most cases it is probably tuned near the limits of what your car can make, so there is a lot less "padding" so to speak to allow for any fluctuations.
Not to mention the other benefits of a Cobb - all the logging, simulated 0-60, 1/4 miles, dyno, etc. as well as the ability to easily go back to the stock map if you need to take it to the dealer. Plus you can resell it if you ver get rid of the car.
Is it that heavy to move?!
Last edited by Hassan!; Feb 18, 2010 at 03:25 PM.
