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New Engine, Lean Under Load w/ No Boost. (ALSO only ~9 PSI max)

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Old Jul 28, 2021 | 08:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
The 640863 is more of the same crap as you have now. The 644113 uses a metal screw on attachment that will literally NEVER blow off.
Shipped today, hopefully it gets here sooner than later.

I went through today and watched all fuel trims and adjusted stuff, and ended up more or less exactly where I started. Running a lot better, but it still leans out for a moment, even when accelerating in neutral, then gets SUPER rich when I let off. It also seems to be WAAAAY overshooting the fuel trims.
It's almost like there's some feedback delay... I have injector voltage latencies set up to spec, is there anything else involved in changing injector delay?

I took off the wg actuator arm to see if it's screwed up, but I can't tell if the flag is sitting properly or not. It felt harder to get on this time, so I guess it's possible it's not seating? But I can't think of a way to find out if that's what's going on.... Maybe I melted my cat lol
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 02:41 AM
  #17  
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Did another 2 bar leak test today, found a teeny tiny leak where I had swapped the blowoff valve, and some other larger hose to sensor thing(?). Car seems to run a lot better when running closer to stoic now. Still no idea about the boost issue, clearly not a leak. At this rate I'm gonna have to bring it to a shop. I am literally out of ideas
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 07:01 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Cole Crouter
Did another 2 bar leak test today, found a teeny tiny leak where I had swapped the blowoff valve, and some other larger hose to sensor thing(?). Car seems to run a lot better when running closer to stoic now. Still no idea about the boost issue, clearly not a leak. At this rate I'm gonna have to bring it to a shop. I am literally out of ideas
What are you using for boost control? If you are still using the factory boost solenoids, make sure you didn't get rid of the restrictors in the OEM hose assembly or you will run into an issue like you are seeing.

If you are running an aftermarket solenoid, make sure the hoses are configured correctly.
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 09:06 AM
  #19  
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I'm using a GS 3 port, and some vinyl hose for all of it, so no pill or anything. I'm actually using some stock hose for the T from the manifold to BOV/boost gauge, so I'll make sure to check that later.
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 09:27 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Cole Crouter
I'm using a GS 3 port, and some vinyl hose for all of it, so no pill or anything. I'm actually using some stock hose for the T from the manifold to BOV/boost gauge, so I'll make sure to check that later.
Can you describe which hose is going where?

Also, you have the brown harness connected to the GS 3-port, not the black harness, correct?
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 09:30 AM
  #21  
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Yea the brown one. I don't have anything plugged into the black one; I saw in the GS guide it says to plug in your old one to prevent DTC, but I'm not getting a DTC rn. I don't remember if I was before or not.

Edit: I should mention that I spun the compressor turbine while I had the intake off, and it seemed more than fine, so I don't think I wrecked a bearing or something like that.

Last edited by Cole Crouter; Jul 31, 2021 at 09:49 AM.
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 03:18 PM
  #22  
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Can you tell us how your lines are routed from your GS solenoid?
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 11:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Can you tell us how your lines are routed from your GS solenoid?

the hose on there now is kinda junk so I'm gonna replace it later, just in case.
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 11:59 AM
  #24  
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Yea, that's correct.

Have you logged the car?
Have you tested the wastegate actuator?
Have you checked your cat to see if it's clogged?
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 12:47 PM
  #25  
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Aww, deep down I was hoping I'd screwed that up, and somehow made a vacuum for the wg lol.
I never leave the house without my laptop, out of fear for my fuel trims. Other than the usual "you're bad at tuning" red flags, everything seems alright to me. WGDC is stuck at 0, I graphed MAF over MAP and it's more or less a straight line. Not sure what else I should be looking out for. I'll upload two logs; a more recent one, and a nice long one from last week (I've been adjusting fueling, ignore that).

What's a good way to check if the actuator is working? When I had the arm off, it seemed good to me; nice and smooth, gotta pull on it real hard to get it back on the flap. It's probably set too tight, but I guess the extra force wouldn't hurt.

As for the cat, it's basically welded on with half a decade of rust. If I end up pulling the turbo outlet to check on the wg flap, I could kill two birds and shove a snake camera down there and see what shows up. Does that seem like a reasonable next step?
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 02:30 PM
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I don't think you are logging correctly. Lots of items showing zero in those logs.

Want to share your ROM?
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 03:17 PM
  #27  
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I'm using 56890014 right now.
Rear O2 has been swapped with wideband, so that one's fine (older log I probably was logging rear instead of front). The empty columns are just because I keep forgetting to hit "Save as Default" after I check em off in EvoScan.
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air.bin (1.00 MB, 0 views)
File Type: xml
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 01:47 PM
  #28  
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My clutch line burst on Monday, so I haven't been able to do any more testing (replacement should come Friday). I'm almost finished replacing my floor harness with the right (I hope) model, and that should fix up at least a few small gremlins (again, I hope). Did you know that on the Ralliart, the rear wheel speed sensors connect to the rear harness (brake lights, ACD), but on the Evo X they have it connect to the floor harness (for 2011 at least, both harnesses)? The connectors themselves are only a few inches away, so it's interesting that they chose to move them for whatever reason.

I read into clogged cats and learned a few things:
- A melted/oiled up cat doesn't really look that different, so it might be hard to inspect with my crappy snake cam.
- There would be a discrepancy between the upstream (stock O2) and downstream (wideband sensor). I don't think there is, but it's hard to tell just by watching EvoScan. That could explain the poor running.
- Failure to spool turbo (obviously).
- Really poor performance due to backpressure. Last weekend I raced a buddy down the freeway on my way home and had no problems thrashing the car, so as far as I can tell, this doesn't sound like it's the case.
- Usually caused by getting oil in the exhaust. When I downed the first engine (2 bent rods, cracked side of the block in 3 spots), the head was fine so I wouldn't think that caused it, but that timeline would be spot on.

My plan was to just pull the O2 housing out of the downpipe and ripping down the road, but I'm on the fence for if that's a good idea or not because that'll screw with the front O2. I guess it doesn't realllllly matter as long as I'm in open loop when the boost kicks in? I'll report back once I have some news.
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Old Aug 9, 2021 | 07:03 PM
  #29  
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Pulled the exhaust off the turbo and drove down the street. No change. I'm about to hook my wideband back up and see if anything has settled down w/ the afr.

When I get some more time, I was thinking about temporarily bypassing the 3-port and seeing if it boost builds.
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Old Aug 12, 2021 | 08:06 PM
  #30  
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Found something interesting, looks like my O2 sensor might be broken. I graphed it up to my wideband and you can see pretty clearly that something's not right

I found an old one in my bin of junk (not sure where it came from, it's not my old rear O2) so next week I'll swap it out and see what happens.
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