4b11 internals strength
Dec 27, 2012, 07:33 AM
#31
Evolving Member
The rods, cast, are inherently the weak point on the 4B11T. Hench the reasoning for the 375wtq cap...the pistons, however, are forged. I would say that the limits to this motor seem to be around the 400whp/375wtq range w/stock internals.
Dec 27, 2012, 08:19 AM
#32
Over 200 dyno runs and constant street abuse at 680whp on stock block. - I wouldn't recommend much above 500-550whp on a T3 setup (less torque). The weak point we found after tons of abuse was the rod bolts stretched and let go. We did hit right around 40psi a couple times on the dyno with no head gasket problems, but if you plan on running high boost I would recommend rod bolts. So far the 4B11 has been one of the strongest motors we have had the joy of working with.
If you plan on running a bolt on turbocharger this will all change. You will put a ton more load down low with the increase in torque and the rod bolts may stretch a bit earlier due to the constant torque abuse. T3 at these power levels is the only way to go.
Michael
If you plan on running a bolt on turbocharger this will all change. You will put a ton more load down low with the increase in torque and the rod bolts may stretch a bit earlier due to the constant torque abuse. T3 at these power levels is the only way to go.
Michael
Last edited by ETS Michael; Dec 28, 2012 at 08:24 AM.
Dec 27, 2012, 05:22 PM
#34
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so assuming a good tune,you feel like changing the HG, h3ad studs, and rod bolts significantly increases the reliability?
whay do you suggest for a simple drop in piston/rod package?
whay do you suggest for a simple drop in piston/rod package?
Over 200 dyno runs and constant street abuse at 680whp on stock block. - I would recommend much above 500-550whp on a T3 setup (less torque). The weak point we found after tons of abuse was the rod bolts stretched and let go. We did hit right around 40psi a couple times on the dyno with no head gasket problems, but if you plan on running high boost I would recommend rod bolts. So far the 4B11 has been one of the strongest motors we have had the joy of working with.
If you plan on running a bolt on turbocharger this will all change. You will put a ton more load down low with the increase in torque and the rod bolts may stretch a bit earlier due to the constant torque abuse. T3 at these power levels is the only way to go.
Michael
If you plan on running a bolt on turbocharger this will all change. You will put a ton more load down low with the increase in torque and the rod bolts may stretch a bit earlier due to the constant torque abuse. T3 at these power levels is the only way to go.
Michael
Dec 28, 2012, 08:26 AM
#35
Our car has very simple build.
Cosworth drop in pistons
Cosworth rods and bearings
Cosworth headgasket
ARP Rod Bolts
GSC S2 Cams
Ferrea Dual Valve Springs and Retainers
Stock block (No sleeves)
Stock head (no porting or oversize valves, you can benefit on increasing the exhaust valve size though)
This was a built 2.0L
Thanks!
Michael
Cosworth drop in pistons
Cosworth rods and bearings
Cosworth headgasket
ARP Rod Bolts
GSC S2 Cams
Ferrea Dual Valve Springs and Retainers
Stock block (No sleeves)
Stock head (no porting or oversize valves, you can benefit on increasing the exhaust valve size though)
This was a built 2.0L
Thanks!
Michael
Dec 28, 2012, 09:12 AM
#38
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Over 200 dyno runs and constant street abuse at 680whp on stock block. - I wouldn't recommend much above 500-550whp on a T3 setup (less torque). The weak point we found after tons of abuse was the rod bolts stretched and let go. We did hit right around 40psi a couple times on the dyno with no head gasket problems, but if you plan on running high boost I would recommend rod bolts. So far the 4B11 has been one of the strongest motors we have had the joy of working with.
If you plan on running a bolt on turbocharger this will all change. You will put a ton more load down low with the increase in torque and the rod bolts may stretch a bit earlier due to the constant torque abuse. T3 at these power levels is the only way to go.
Michael
If you plan on running a bolt on turbocharger this will all change. You will put a ton more load down low with the increase in torque and the rod bolts may stretch a bit earlier due to the constant torque abuse. T3 at these power levels is the only way to go.
Michael
Dec 28, 2012, 09:18 AM
#40
And I don't come into a random threads and derail them off topic talking about something totally unrelated.
The 4b11 has no issues if people build them right and in stock form many have lasted plenty long.
If the car wasn't weighed down with improved safety factors there wouldn't be a comparison, Mitsubishi designed a great car.
That being said the 4g63 is an awesome platform that I personally love and I will buy another one in the future.
Dec 28, 2012, 09:21 AM
#41
I've owned both, have you?
And I don't come into a random threads and derail them off topic talking about something totally unrelated.
The 4b11 has no issues if people build them right and in stock form many have lasted plenty long.
If the car wasn't weighed down with improved safety factors there wouldn't be a comparison, Mitsubishi designed a great car.
That being said the 4g63 is an awesome platform that I personally love and I will buy another one in the future.
And I don't come into a random threads and derail them off topic talking about something totally unrelated.
The 4b11 has no issues if people build them right and in stock form many have lasted plenty long.
If the car wasn't weighed down with improved safety factors there wouldn't be a comparison, Mitsubishi designed a great car.
That being said the 4g63 is an awesome platform that I personally love and I will buy another one in the future.
Dec 28, 2012, 10:45 AM
#42
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Our car has very simple build.
Cosworth drop in pistons
Cosworth rods and bearings
Cosworth headgasket
ARP Rod Bolts
GSC S2 Cams
Ferrea Dual Valve Springs and Retainers
Stock block (No sleeves)
Stock head (no porting or oversize valves, you can benefit on increasing the exhaust valve size though)
This was a built 2.0L
Thanks!
Michael
Cosworth drop in pistons
Cosworth rods and bearings
Cosworth headgasket
ARP Rod Bolts
GSC S2 Cams
Ferrea Dual Valve Springs and Retainers
Stock block (No sleeves)
Stock head (no porting or oversize valves, you can benefit on increasing the exhaust valve size though)
This was a built 2.0L
Thanks!
Michael
No gains to head porting or changing intake valve?
Dec 29, 2012, 12:10 PM
#44
I'm currently debating doing a rod and piston build before I need to. Just so that's out of the way. We'll see.
Jan 25, 2016, 09:09 PM
#45
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Bringing it back from the dead. I'm currently running over 500whp but I'm ready to go over 600. I ask my shop for an ideal turbo but I'm being told I need to sleeve my block and basically rebuild the bottom end. ETS do you think it necessary to spend another 10k just to break 600whp? I spent over 5k building the last motor after my chain stretched. Check out my sig for my upgrades. I appreciate any opinions.
Last edited by NateDaJew; Jan 25, 2016 at 09:16 PM.
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