Thatotherguy

I'm trying to get a list of parts for a 400 awhp Reliable DD e85

1100 cc injectors, not sure what brand, any suggestions?
Do I need a new bov?
Do I need an intercooler?
Not sure about intake, I like the aem intake but heard the larger map housing is a pain to tune. I don't want a oil based filter , any suggestions?
Not sure if a motor build is needed?
Not sure what clutch to use either, or if stock is okay, I don't plan to launch the thing
Thinking about a surge tank, any thoughts?
I'm also trying to stay in a budget.

Below is the stuff I know I want
Ams down pipe +o2
Ets v2 quiet
Ets hfc
Ams uicp
walbro255
Gs 3 port

HAHAV8

EF2, FP green, or BBX Lite
FIC 1100, or ID1000 injectors
Map o2 DP, or AMS o2 Dp
Test pipe, or HFC(mil-spec)
CBE
Intake
3.5" IC w/piping
Cobb BPV
Ported OEM exhaust manifold

These parts will net you 400+whp on a dynojet, and roughly 360-380 on a low reading Mustang Dyno. Oh, and on pump gas also.

Stock clutch should last without launching it, also built block is not really needed at this level, but you never know. Make sure you get a good tune most imortantly.

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

When you get your list together or need help finalizing the build, let me know and we can get you pricing. We offer aggressive pricing from a ton of different manufacturers. I'm sure we can work out a good package deal for you

Thanks!

Michael

ScottSpeed21

iTrader: (7)

HAHAV8 has a good list, I'll add my own input...

If you completely max the stock turbo with all supporting mods, you can get pretty close to an even 400whp on E85, but I would honestly get a different turbo for an easier and reliable 400+

Do the AEM intake if you like, the 3" MAF tube is easy to tune, no problem...although I would suggest a 3" short ram with velocity stack (Moore Automotive has a nice one)

MAP EF2 turbo (pretty much identical to, and less expensive than FPGreen)
At least FIC 1100cc injectors...I would almost go bigger for E85
Same thing with the fuel pump...DW300 or Walbro 400
Any UICP
ETS 4" intercooler (with the available intercoolers for us, there's no such thing as too big)
BOV better than stock (Cobb, Synapse, Tial, etc.)
Grimmspeed 3 port
Ported exhaust manifold would help
MAP downpipe, or the AMS that you like
Test pipe will open up more flow than a HFC, and resonated will be quieter than a cat...but if you really want the HFC, it'll flow well enough
ETS quiet cat-back that you like will be good, I actually really like that one also

All that, along with the most important thing...a good tune...will get you an easy 400+whp, especially on E85

Thatotherguy

Can you help me understand why an upgraded small turbo would be more reliable then maxing out the stock turbo?

ScottSpeed21

iTrader: (7)

I'm talking completely maxing the stock turbo...like 33psi, lots of timing to sort of keep the power up on the top end.

The stock turbo falls on its face after 5500rpm, so you'll never hold enough boost to keep the torque and HP curves high enough. You have to run the turbo way out of its efficiency range, which pumps a lot of hot air, which could lead to detonation and knock...plus you're pushing torque levels to around 400 ft/lbs or more, which makes the stock internals a ticking time bomb...plus that much boost pressure could cause knock....plus the ignition timing will need to be pretty high, again leading to detonation, as well as putting a lot of stress on the rods. And all this needs to be tuned perfect...even then, you're barely touching that 400whp number.

By going to a bigger turbo, you run less boost, you keep the torque levels down in the safe zone, less timing, you flow cooler air out of the turbo and it will hold boost to redline, making it easier to keep the power up and very able to break the 400whp mark. It's more reliable because you're not tuning the car on the ragged edge between making power and blowing a hole in the block. Plus, if you ever want more, you can add a tubular manifold and a set of cams that will probably get you another 40+whp out of the same setup.

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

Stock BOV leaks around the 25-27 psi range, I would go for a 4.0" Intercooler. Once you pull the factory turbocharger out of it's efficiency range the larger intercooler will really help with keeping temps down where the factory intercooler will heat soak quickly.

michael

Thatotherguy

With that fp green setup with cams, is it correct to assume no need for built internals

Thatotherguy

What is the efficient range for the stock turbo?

ScottSpeed21

iTrader: (7)

Keep the peak torque around 360-370 and the stock internals will last forever
Anything over 26-27psi is pushing it...that air will start to get hot without flowing a significant amount more.

HAHAV8

Scottspeed, I'm assuming that is 360 dyno jet numbers?

I see you're local to me also.

ScottSpeed21

iTrader: (7)

Strictly Dynojet or VD, I would have no problem running in the 380 ft/lbs area on stock internals. The 360 ft/lbs number is kind of an all around "generally accepted as safe" torque level without needing to worry about bending or breaking rods from too much torque.

Yessir....or is it you that's local to me??

HAHAV8

How do you feel about the longevity of a 400whp/360wtq DJ #'s build?

In the amherst area if you have seen me around.

ScottSpeed21

iTrader: (7)

400whp/360wtq I think would last you forever with just your normal maintenence. I've been running 360whp/360wtq for almost 4 full years and 74,000 miles and I've had zero problems with the car. I would have no problem pushing more power, my stock turbo just can't hold enough torque after 5500rpm.

I used to be in Amherst/Cheektowaga area, I'm in NT now. Silver Evo? I might've seen you. I'm blue with factory aero, lowered on gunmetal wheels.

Thatotherguy

If I did an ets 5858b kit plus rods and pistons cams and springs tuned for 550 awhp on pump gas, I'm I Likly to blow my drive train, planning for road racing but don't plan to launch the thing