sbchvy

Wife's car spun a rod bearing-had the crank machined down and block honed. Put everything back together with a new timing chain. Motor turns over but will not fire. Engine seems to stumble and shake as it tries to catch. Engine also seems to turn over hard even with a new battery. If we crack the throttle body it speeds up but also shakes more! Motor turned over fine all assembled on the engine stand by hand. We have fuel at the rail, plugs one and three are dry but two and four appear wet-or at least wetter. We have spark at each cylinder I just dont know if its at the correct time. I pulled the valve cover off and verified the timing marks are level with the head surface pointed at each other and the balancer mark lines up with the timing cover. Kind of at a loss of what to do next. I had the machine shop assemble the short block as I simply do not have the right tools for setting ring gap and sinking the pistons ( everything I have at the shop is sized for larger off road diesel motors). Can the reluctor wheel get bolted on out of time? Any help on what to look for in the morning is greatly appreciated. Ill check for codes in the morning.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, cant help w/this complicated issue

I see you had a shop assemble the short block. There are some serious procedures needed when securing the crank in-place

Maybe some of our 4B11 gurus can help out w/some ideas

Keep us posted on your progress

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Two plugs are wet, and two aren't.

Move coils around to see if it's a spark issue or fueling. If the wet plugs stay with the same cylinder when moving coils around, Send the injectors out to be cleaned and flow tested.

Pulling the valve cover to check cam timing takes about 10 minutes, but I doubt it's that.

sbchvy

Thanks! we removed timing cover last night and everything is spot on. Machinist claims they did not remove the reluctor wheel so thats ruled out. Basically only leaves the head, cams, mis timed fuel or spark. Any way to test the cam and crank sensors?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

sbchvy

Straight from the dealer, notice the keyway in the crankshaft

My keyway is up clockwise a tad...probably one tooth

Hard to see but the cam timing lines are level with the top deck of the head

Still no luck, kept telling myself it's a timing issue so I pulled the cover off. This is what we found, I think the crank is off but would love some other opinions. How do I ensure that #1 is at tdc on the compression stroke and not 180 out in relation to the reluctor wheel?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The chain is market to where it is supposed to land on the gears, its pretty straight forward to check timing on the X. The blue mark is on the dot on the crank gear, what about the marks for the cam gear?

Jmarin82

sbchvy

Just got the car running today. I hate to admit how stupid I am but perhaps it remind someone else to double check everything!

I have a habit when I take things apart to put the corresponding bolts to those parts back in them...case in point the torque converter bolts. Those bolts remained in the torque converter when I mated the engine and trans back together thus bending the flex plate into the block. My car cranked over hard and slow-obviously this was the cause! So-sub frame out, engine/trans separated, new bolts and flex plate, back together the right way this time...and engine didn't spin over once before firing!

I had timing right the first and second time.
Little starter just couldn't spin a bound up flex plate fast enough to build enough compression to run.


Thanks for all that chimed in and tried to help.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I highly recommend you drop the oil pan and inspect your thrust bearings and thrust surfaces on the crank shaft. You may have damaged the bearing with all that pressure on the crank, and you may be able to get away with just rolling a new bearing in before it wipes itself out and takes the crank with it.