Full Race EFR 8374 IWG Problem
 

Hey guys my car is finally getting tuned now after all this time but once again we've ran into yet another problem! Hopefully someone can help.

So my tuner is saying that the car is boosting to 35+ PSI no mater what he does, he then tested the turbo "using an air compressor to put pressure to it without the car running" and he took a video of why he believes the car is having this problem. I'll attach a video if I can.

They believe that something is caught on something which is making the metal on the actuator bend when it shouldn't be.

All I can say is that one thing FOR SURE is that Full Race's downpipe is cocked, it tilts my exhaust waaaaay lopsided so much so that my exhaust was burning through my diffuser while everything was bolted up perfectly, I had to bend my hangers just to temporarily fix that (still very lopsided) but otherwise I'm gonna have to saw off my exhaust and weld it back together because of that. So I'm wondering if either that could cause a problem or maybe they messed up on other parts in the kit?

This "minor issue" is turning into a HUGE one because they've already told me months before that this kit is extremely tight and they have no room to work in there. In order to replace the wastegate/etc they have to take the turbo out and in order to take the turbo out they have to drop the motor. That's another $2,500-$3,000 just to fix this issue! This build has been a nightmare that never seems to end, I've had nothing but problems with this build. If anyone could help me I'd appreciate it.

For now he has sent an email to Full Race with the video and asking them why we can't control the boost and what we need to do so all I can do is wait...

To me it sounds like the turbo isnly clocked correctly which is causing your fitment issues with the exhaust. And from there especially on the IWG setups on the EFRs where the packaging is tight if turbo isnt clocked ideally the arm on the wastegate can bind which impedes the flapper movement thus cant properly regulate boost pressure.

Also not for nothing but you shouldn't need to drop the motor to swap the turbo kit.

So you think that they installed the kit incorrectly? Also they just said it's such a tight fit they can't even replace my clutch without dropping the motor to get to it, and they showed me in person, there is a line that's in the way.

Without seeing it hard to say but certainly sounds like it. Full Race makes good products so if it doesnt fit then something is up. And between that and the fact that your shop is telling you motor needs to be pulled to install a turbo kit or swap a clutch Im calling BS.

Yeah. They shouldn't need to drop the motor to r&i the turbo.

I also think they improperly installed the turbo kit and this issues is there fault... The down pipe being slightly off has nothing to do with the boost creep.

Dropping the motor is total BS, they're looking to fish you out of more $$

I asked him about clocking the turbo. I wish I was a mechanic so I could understand better but I only do basic stuff on cars. This is his reply

He said the wastegate is bolted to the compressor housing and the housing is in the way they want it so it can connect to the UICP correctly. It's so close to the firewall it's hard to see anything back there.

He told me if it was EWG I'd already be out his shop. Also they've said I should of just got a Precision and we would of never had these problems. I think this is just his first experience with a Borg on an Evo X so he's learning how it goes.
Like I said, he's always done his best to show me what the problem was, he showed me how tight the turbo fit in there and that there was lines or something in the way to get to the clutch and all that. But like I said I don't work on cars like that so I don't know all the tricks and stuff. Maybe he's just saying it'd be easier to drop the motor than to not? Not sure but what I do know is it's a lot of money

Plain and simple, they installed it improperly and have no business charging you to fix it.

The turbine housing and compressor housing can be clocked independently of each other on the CHRA. They either don't have the clocking right, or they messed something else up that's making the actuator hold the gate shut.

Have they tried contacting Full Race for tech support?


Full Race's own install guide mentions the importance of clocking the housings for the WGA to be lined up correct, and mentions nothing about removing the engine to the pull the turbo..
https://www.full-race.com/articles/evo-x-turbo-install/

^Yep, great link! They are full of it, comp cover spins freely. The bracket actually bolts to the CHRA and even that can be bolted in different positions as its tapped 360 degrees around offset a couple inches between each thread.

Honestly, I dont even like the shop's attitude. The whole if you used an EWG or a Precision is a crappy attitude. If they aren't capable they shouldn't have accepted the work in the first place.

If they continue to refuse to fix it without charging you more, I'd take it somewhere else. No need to pay the same idiot twice.

Hopefully it's not STM having a hard time with this.

Great reply thanks, that's extremely detailed! I'll send it to him first to see if we can just settle this and everything. I already paid in advance for my Flexfuel tune anyways. Hopefully everything works out without any problems I'm responsible for. I've already spent like $25,000 in parts and labor on this build with them, dropped it off first week of July 2018, had it fully broken in since mid march and I still have a car with a 4500 rev limiter, I don't think anyone could have the patience I have lol

What are they charging you for the flex tune? I would ask them to refund it and grab an etune. Lots of good etuners out there.

$750 for a Flexfuel tune, I think that's pretty good. I'm sure he lowered the price for me since I just did a huge build with him.

I sent him that link you guys showed me, he liked it and said it had very good info, let's hope it'll show him what needs to be done.

On the other forum some asked for pics, this is all I got, don't know it'll do any good.
Also the second pic shows the line that I was talking about that blocks the way to get to the clutch, hence why they said they'd drop the motor to get to it.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...857158ab95.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...042b5f9af8.jpg

Also this was before we decided to go with a Turbosmart acuator might I add.