n789db

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if there is a block heater available for the X to keep the engine warm at night?

Sufu

I don't think it gets cold enough in Utah to need one. They are usually reserved for like some places in Canada where it's below 0.

n789db

iTrader: (1)

It is better for engines to be kept above freezing when being started. It gets down to zero F here sometimes. I know it is not required but if I had a garage I would keep it at 50 F.

Cold starting is very hard on engines, poor lubrication going on below 50F until the engine warms up.

solipsism

iTrader: (1)

Yeah they are available. I have one.

n789db

iTrader: (1)

Did you get it from the Mitsu dealer or was it generic ??

Western_man

Here man

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...num=1&ct=title

swandog

i have one too the dealership installed it without me even knowing when i got my evo 10

n789db

iTrader: (1)

I have called US dealerships in MN, MT etc., cold places. They all say "not available."

Can one of you canadians that have a block heater for your X help me find one, I'll buy from Canada if that is what I need to do. Phone number or dealer location and name....

Slalom4me

The move to thinwall casting techniques by manufacturers means
the disappearance of the traditional core or 'expansion' plug holes in the sides
of the block where immersion-type block heaters used to be installed. Perhaps
this is the case for the Evo X?

One dealer in Edmonton stated that the 4B11T has no provision for an immersion
style block heater.

A second dealer also said there is no provision for an immersion-style heater,
but said that they have located an aftermarket contact-style heater that
reportedly attaches to threaded boss or into a port on the block. The heater
does not make contact with coolant or oil, it conducts to the mass of the block.

Due diligence ought to be undertaken to judge suitability of the product for
your purposes. For further information:
Another option is to use a unit that has heating elements embedded in a flexible
(silcone) pad with an adhesive backing. These are widely used for tank heaters
in aviation and for other applications, including automotive engines that have a
smooth surface that the pad can adhere to.

ProHeat Products makes four sizes with output ranging from 125W to 1,000W.
Their website has more information about P/N's, physical size and output. For
an indication about prices, search Amazon for "Proheat Fluid Reservoir Heater"

If a pad-style heater is chosen, be sure to follow the installation instructions
regarding surface preparation and application of a bead of silicone around the
perimeter of the installed pad.

.

n789db

iTrader: (1)

Slalom4me, thanks for all the help.

n789db

iTrader: (1)

After discussing 10 minutes with Aaron in service and his parts guy (very helpful) at Southside Mitsu in Edmonton AB Canada we concluded the best solution for my situation is an oil pan heater since it never gets colder than -10 F here.

Not cold enough to have problems vaporizing the fuel like at -30-40F below zero. I just need the oil warm so it lubes the engine more quickly and effective oil flow and pressure occur more immediately. Looks like I may go with one from Proheat products. If you want to baby your engine (less engine cold start wear) in colder weather this is the best solution.

The one the Canadians are offering keeps the upper block warm but is not in the coolant so it wont help keep the oil warm. The best solution in very cold parts of canada is to do both, block and oil pan.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

what?

heavyD

Synthetic Oil is all you need as it still flows well at subzero temperatures. I'm in Calgary and I haven't had a block heater in my last three cars and have never had an issue with any car because I always use synthetic oil. We hit -40C last winter for almost a week and my California MR2 Turbo with no block heater started first couple of turns every time.

n789db

iTrader: (1)

I am not as concerned about being able to get it started as I am for insuring good (the best possible) lubrication the moment the engine is started when it is -10 to +10 degrees F.

I am concerned about long term wear (cold starting) and maximizing engine life and performance.

I am using Mobile 1 5W30 Synthetic.

Slalom4me

Coles Notes version for V.8MR

• Use lubricants with appropriate viscosity for the temperatures.
• Oil pan heaters are helpful, provided they can be plugged in.
• Battery warmers are helpful, provided they can be plugged in.
• Battery chargers are helpful, provided they can be plugged in.

For a stamped sheet metal oil pan, a pad heater is a simple effective addition.
A cast sump, especially one with significant surface porosity and/or structural
ribs is a less likely candidate - the poor surface reduces heat conductivity and
durability of the pad's attachment to the pan.

The previous remark about careful preparation, installation and beading the
edges with silicone afterward relates to the importance of keeping the pad
from detaching later. Wind, spray and debris under the engine all threaten
to work between the pad and the pan.

My vote is that if there is sufficient wattage provided for a long enough duration
then a modicum of heat will be conducted to the lubricant. Traditional immersion
heaters in the block are not particularly good at warming engine oil, either.

Consider that at one time, a 60W-100W incandescent bulb placed under the
hood, along with a tarp over the front of the car and wind breaks positioned
underneath for insulation and shelter did an adequate job of enabling an
engine to start in cold conditions.

For referenceIt is not uncommon for temperatures to dip below -45ºC (-49ºF) ambiant
occasionally during the latter part of January. Windchill on such days makes
the outdoor experience even more profound.

Despite this, my vote is that fuel vaporization isn't a significant issue, even at
such low temperatures. IMO, the principal factor that prevent modern FI cars
from starting in the cold is too low a cranking speed and insufficient voltage to
power the ignition, injection & fuel pump. If you can get it to spin at 450 RPM
and still have 12.5 VDC, my money says the engine starts - even if the oil is like
taffy.

For faster cranking speeds and less voltage drop in cold temperatures:

• Use lower viscosity engine oil.
• Use coolant and/or oil heaters
• Ensure the battery is in good condition
• Use a battery trickle charger
• Use a battery heater (pad or blanket-style)

A factor that comes into play for using heating devices effectively is position the
vehicle in a sheltered area or to provide some form of wind break & insulation
for the engine compartment. This helps by creating a boundary layer between
the engine and the ambiant environment and reduces the rate at which the
output of the heating device dissipates by convection to the surrounding
environment. Wind chill matters when trying to warm an engine to improve
starting.

About using low viscosity oil - employ common sense when faced with driving
during temporary warm spells and be conscious that spirited driving may
elevate the oil operating temperatures above its operating range.

As a closing thought - many of my fellow citizens think nothing of attempting
to start their gasoline and diesel fueled vehicles without any consideration for
prewarming the engine. Provided that the car starts, the owner then potters
off on their 15 minute trip to the mall or to work where the car is left to cool
down for several hours before undergoing a repeat performance for the trip
home. Vehicles survive this treatment, tending to succumb for other reasons.

.